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75-91 third gen headers? JBA shorties, 351w

  #1  
Old 01-03-2018, 02:49 PM
Samtech79
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75-91 third gen headers? JBA shorties, 351w

Does anyone know for sure, possibly have photos of JBA (1628) shorty headers installed on a 351w third gen van?
Does it clear the inside of the drivers side doghouse? How about the passenger side? Can you get to all the bolts?
 
  #2  
Old 01-04-2018, 09:56 PM
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My advice to you if you're new to headers is to get an assortment of different brand wrenches in the size of the bolts you use. The longer end wrenches will help in getting the bolts tighter. Get header bolts only with 3/8" 12 point heads. This far simplifies installation with tight clearances. Get soft copper gaskets. You'll pay more for them, but once tightened, they will NEVER work loose.
 
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Old 01-05-2018, 07:15 PM
fordman75
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Originally Posted by baddad457 View Post
Get soft copper gaskets. You'll pay more for them, but once tightened, they will NEVER work loose.
I'd go with the Remflex gaskets. They are fairly thick & soft so they conform to almost any warpage or surface defects. Plus they won't burn thru/leak like the copper gaskets can. They aren't cheap but well worth it in the long run.

FORD Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket



And I really like the "Stage 8" brand locking hardware for headers. It's nice insurance for keeping header bolts tight.
 
  #4  
Old 01-05-2018, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman75 View Post
I'd go with the Remflex gaskets. They are fairly thick & soft so they conform to almost any warpage or surface defects. Plus they won't burn thru/leak like the copper gaskets can. They aren't cheap but well worth it in the long run.

FORD Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket



And I really like the "Stage 8" brand locking hardware for headers. It's nice insurance for keeping header bolts tight.
I've never had copper burn through. Aluminum ? Yea. And once tight, there's no need for locking bolts.
 
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Old 01-05-2018, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457 View Post
I've never had copper burn through. Aluminum ? Yea. And once tight, there's no need for locking bolts.

I've seen plenty of people with them that leaked. Now that could be improper installation, tightening, or severe warpage. But they still leaked.

I said they were insurance. And when dealing with a V8 in a van keeping exhaust leaks from happening and hassle of fixing them it's worth a little insurance.
 
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman75 View Post
I've seen plenty of people with them that leaked. Now that could be improper installation, tightening, or severe warpage. But they still leaked.

I said they were insurance. And when dealing with a V8 in a van keeping exhaust leaks from happening and hassle of fixing them it's worth a little insurance.
If you take the time to get all the bolts tight and the gaskets compressed, there will be no loosening nor burn through. I've used them on two motors now, one iron headed, the other aluminum. The later has had two sets on it now due to having to go into the motor. The iron headed was my van, one side's been replaced due to the header cracking at the collector junction. The opposite side has been in service for 6 years now and the bolts have yet to work loose.
 
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Old 01-06-2018, 05:38 PM
richter roxs
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When considering headers always ask yourself first are you willing to pull the heads if (or when ) the manifold bolts snap. Can’t help on the fit but if you pull your manifolds and order the ones you like from summit racing and you are careful during the trial fitting if they don’t fit and are undamaged you could send them back .

There is not a lot of info on vans and headers, i have pacesetter shorties on my 96 5.8 with a tight but good fit. Good luck and make sure you post your results if any.
 
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:28 PM
Samtech79
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Ok, been busy with real life for awile...
I lifted some photos from Scndsin's build thread as I'm building a very similar engine, same intake, heads, slightly smaller cam, etc.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1475174-scndsins-5-8-build.html

But I'm still not sure if I can get these headers, the same exact headers from Scndsin's build also, to fit.
Here is photos from his.



It's the number 2 and 6 cylinders that concern me.
I took these this morning, if got the tape at the bolt line and am holding it about level. With angles and depth perception being absent in photos it's somewhat difficult to really see.
Anyway... I'm trying to illustrate the clearance I've got between head, at the bolt line, and what would be the dog house cover.

 
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:44 PM
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The passenger side's a tighter fit than the driver's side. PaceSetters fit fine, can't tell bout yours just looking at pics. Only sure way to know is try them. I went through this doing a V8 Ranger swap. Sometimes you gotta pay to play. I went through three different sets in that swap before I found ones I liked.
 
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:54 PM
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Or someone with a third gen van could chime in... Or someone with a truck that has 1628 JBA headers could hold a tape to the head, level at the bolt level and note the distance at #2 and 6.
 
  #11  
Old 02-11-2018, 11:31 PM
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Hi Sam.

We'll see how this works:

Pardon my illustration skill with nothing but MS paint to get the point across.

Add the half inch to the measurements since the tab of my tape measure won't go all the way to the head.

I could only go from the header flange

Hope this helps & good luck with your build.

 
  #12  
Old 02-11-2018, 11:50 PM
Samtech79
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Hey hey hey! Now that's encouraging!
Those measurements put it right at but not over the limit. It' gonna be crazy tight but they should fit.
Now if I can get the ******* back in the hole with the headers on it or not...
Give it six months, I'll update this when I get it wrapped up... literally.
 
  #13  
Old 02-12-2018, 07:27 AM
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You'd do better to install the engine with the headers off it. You'll end up damaging the header wrap otherwise. The only hard to get at bolts are the #'s 1 & 2 ports. Leave the alternator installation til afterwards and that'll simplify getting to those bolts. If the transmission is still in the van, take four, 4 inch long 7/16"NC bolts and cut the heads off and use them as guide pins to mate the engine with the transmission. Screw two in each side of the bell pattern. When you get the engine close to being in place align the four with the corresponding holes in the bell, once they're in the holes, shove the whole thing together.
 
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:23 AM
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Thanks, I'll have a look at that. As for the trans, I've had the original C6 in and out three times and the new E4OD out twice. Got that part down to a science... plus I built a jack plate specifically for it that makes life much, much easier as it the jack cradle, a stand and a scooter for pushing it around.
I can take it out and put it back in, in about an hour and half by myself.
 
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Old 09-08-2018, 12:29 AM
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I'm about to find out for sure as it's almost motor swap time.
I did find these photos awhile back. Let's hope that's a 351 and not a 302.



 

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