Rear Upper Trailing Arm Removal
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 182
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From: Lebanon, OR
Rear Upper Trailing Arm Removal
So, the air suspension on my 2000 Expedition EB crapped out (compressor, I believe), and rather than try to fix that, I've purchased a conventional replacement from Strutmasters.
While I'm tearing into this, I figured I'd replace all of the other suspension components.
I've got the air springs and shocks removed from the back, and started working on removing the rear trailing arms, beginning with the uppers.
After beating on it with an impact wrench forever, I finally got the arm-to-axle bolt/nut out on the passenger side, breaking the nut weld to the retainer bracket. After beating on the driver side, then taking a break and examining the bolt on the passenger side, it appears there's blue Loctite around the bolt threads.
On the driver side, I've succeeded in breaking the nut weld again, and simply cannot break the bolt free from the nut.
Anyone got a trick to this? Am I going to have the same issue on the arm-to-frame bolts, or on the lowers? This doesn't feel like it should be this tough to bust some bolts out.
While I'm tearing into this, I figured I'd replace all of the other suspension components.
I've got the air springs and shocks removed from the back, and started working on removing the rear trailing arms, beginning with the uppers.
After beating on it with an impact wrench forever, I finally got the arm-to-axle bolt/nut out on the passenger side, breaking the nut weld to the retainer bracket. After beating on the driver side, then taking a break and examining the bolt on the passenger side, it appears there's blue Loctite around the bolt threads.
On the driver side, I've succeeded in breaking the nut weld again, and simply cannot break the bolt free from the nut.
Anyone got a trick to this? Am I going to have the same issue on the arm-to-frame bolts, or on the lowers? This doesn't feel like it should be this tough to bust some bolts out.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,318
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From: 0,0,1
You need a stronger impact wrench, or if using extensions or swivels try to not. Your next option is a breaker bar, which believe it or not can apply more torque than an air gun. Last option is if you have torches, heat the nut red hot then try breaking it free.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon, OR
Looks like breaker bar was the answer.
Should have tried that before the impact gun, or shortly after the impact failed to budge.
Thank you for the advice, apologies for being an idiot and not thinking of that first.
Should have tried that before the impact gun, or shortly after the impact failed to budge.
Thank you for the advice, apologies for being an idiot and not thinking of that first.
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