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Driveshaft Angle Questions

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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 06:08 PM
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Driveshaft Angle Questions

Have a 09 F250 CC 8’ bed, have some vibrations between 60 and 75. Also have a hum any time I am on the gas. My truck has a leveling kit on the front.

Question?

I know the center bearing is shimmed but should the 2 piece drive shaft still be as close to straight as possible? Do I possibly need more shims?

Also thinking about putting new u joints in to see if that helps to.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 09:45 PM
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The leveling kit won't have any ill effect on the rear driveline. If nothing has been changed from stock, the angles are likely ok. Visually the rear shafts will look straight but to do it correctly you need a decent angle finder. The trans or tcase output should be the same angle as the rear pinion. From there the carrier bearing will be set so that the rear shaft has a slight downward angle compared to the front segment, about a degree. Check the carrier bearing for torn rubber and if the bearing is noisy. Most slip joints have a master spline so you can't get the u joints out of phase but still something to check. If the joints move free, they are fine as well. The hum could probably be bad pinion bearings if everything else checks out.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by projectnitemare
The leveling kit won't have any ill effect on the rear driveline. If nothing has been changed from stock, the angles are likely ok. Visually the rear shafts will look straight but to do it correctly you need a decent angle finder. The trans or tcase output should be the same angle as the rear pinion. From there the carrier bearing will be set so that the rear shaft has a slight downward angle compared to the front segment, about a degree. Check the carrier bearing for torn rubber and if the bearing is noisy. Most slip joints have a master spline so you can't get the u joints out of phase but still something to check. If the joints move free, they are fine as well. The hum could probably be bad pinion bearings if everything else checks out.
Everything he said, also check the oil in the rear axle. Being low of oil will cause the gears to "roar".
 
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 11:54 PM
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Maybe it has a small lift then. Not sure, bought the truck used. It’s readylift brand. I do know that the drive shaft has 4 1/4 shims at the ,idshift bearing.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 01:59 AM
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As stated, the angles of the yokes should be the same at each end.. this picture gives an idea what they should and shouldn’t be... you really need a magnetic angle finder to get it right. If it’s close but still vibrating then you can have it balanced.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 02:47 AM
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this is a cool video.

Firefighter,You structure or wild land???
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 07:52 AM
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Thanks for the video.

I am structure. That wild land is to crazy for me. Hats off to those that do it though.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by StrokinIT2001

As stated, the angles of the yokes should be the same at each end.. this picture gives an idea what they should and shouldn’t be... you really need a magnetic angle finder to get it right. If it’s close but still vibrating then you can have it balanced.
Thank you the info. I will be going to purchase a angle finder today.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 10:48 AM
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Get a digital angle finder, a dial type isn't very accurate. Harbor freight or Amazon will have them. You have about an inch of shim stacked under the bearing. That's quite a bit for little to no lift. For reference, a 6 inch lift I start around an inch and a half of shim and fine tune from there. The important thing is to get the angles to within a degree of being the same. Once you get close to 2 degrees difference you'll notice vibration. Also a perfectly straight set up isn't good either. A slight angle is needed to allow the needle bearings spin to prevent brinelling. What you need to do is measure the angle on each shaft, add or remove shims to make them the same. Then remove shims until the rear section is approx a degree downward from the front section. You may need to make a few shims from thinner material. If the rear blocks aren't stock you definitely need to check pinion angle. Long bed blocks should have little to no taper unlike a short bed lift block.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 11:00 AM
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I am gonna take some pictures and measurements as to what I have going on. Will post up the details.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 11:36 AM
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Alright. Here it is. Have 1” of shims on the mid bearing.




And here is the link of the mid bearing movement. When sitting still it laying in the bottom of the hoop with about 3/4” away from the top of the hoop.

 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 11:41 AM
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From the looks of that video, the rubber is tore free from the mount. If that's so the carrier bearing isn't any good and needs replaced.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by projectnitemare
From the looks of that video, the rubber is tore free from the mount. If that's so the carrier bearing isn't any good and needs replaced.
I don’t think it’s torn feel completely but I do think that it’s worn for sure. Still trying to figure out why there is so much shins on that bearing. Gonna have to drop the shaft to see if any of the u joints are tight.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 12:14 PM
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If any rubber is tore off it's junk. Check everything out. You have to drop the driveshaft to replace the carrier bearing. It's pressed on the driveshaft. It tough to get that in a press due to the length. The the old one apart then use a hammer and a section of tube to drive the new one on or have a shop do it.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406
Thanks for the video.

I am structure. That wild land is to crazy for me. Hats off to those that do it though.
That carrier should not be moving.. my brother had a loose ujoint that rattled the hell out of the truck. Should see about getting a new bearing..I’ve been doing wildland for four years... it’s fun long trips though...
 
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