Decided to change out the power steering hoses while everything is wide open and wondering about the switch that is on the existing line. Why do some have a switch and some do not??
Since truck is not running yet, seems I won't be able to renew all of the fluid in there. Open to suggestions about the procedure.

On the fence about changing the water pump and clutch fan, sure is easy access now and truck has around 120K on the mileage, any thoughts about doing it now?

Frame is about ready to start accepting brake hardware and fuel lines and wiring, so that should be coming along soon too.

When the leaf springs get off, the axle and fuel tanks are set to re install, etc. Maybe see some good progress over the next week, and pics...

 

Sure you can. With the front wheels off the ground turning the steering back and forth from lock to lock will force the old fluid out of the steering gear. Keep adding fluid and turning the wheels until clean fluid comes out.

I would agree but anymore it’s a crapshoot on whether the new part is better then old one.

 

Hey, good deal My4, that's what I'll do then!

 

put the starter in last night on the top stud bolt I need to run a ground cable to the frame. i had to reroute the wires as the wires were hanging underneath the oil pan and too short now they are routed underneath the motor mount and it fits just fine.

 

I always run my ground to the frame and the starter, makes a better end result because the trucks get older, and lose ground source

 

Thought to find TDC #1 and poke the distributor in the block and ran into a conflict. Done it many times on different six cylinder engines but not familiar with the Ford I-6 so here goes.
When the #1 is at the top of the cylinder on the compression stroke, the timing mark is nowhere near the pulley mark. The notch on the pulley is at roughly 6 o'clock or straight down. This is assuming the timing mark is the square notch or 'cut out' on the pulley, see the pic below.
The degrees are marked on the timing chain cover as indicated in my manual, however the pulley mark seems to be different on this truck as it is to the rear of the pulley instead of on front as the manual indicates. See no mark on the pulley like the manual indicates so perhaps this is my conflict.

There is a piece mounted to the block at about 10 o'clock beside the pulley that I am curious about. It has 'v's cut into it and a circular hole in it. Looks almost like a place that a timing sensor like on the diesel (cam sensor) so am confused as to its purpose or whether it may be a clue to the engines history if not original to the truck? Who knows?

Anyway a simple task is creating questions about getting the timing or distributor mounted properly. What do you guys think??

Is that notch the correct timing mark on the pulley? Does not seem to be when the #1 is at TDC compression stroke.


Unsure what the marks and the 'hole' is for on this side of the front of the block. Sits about 10 o'clock.

Nothing to see here. Just a current shot of the bay.

 

It's hard to see on my phone but I'm pretty sure what you mean with both is not the timing mark. The actual mark is a narrower, longer line on that pulley. Not sure if I described that well.

 

Back at my computer and can see the pictures better. These marks are your timing marks. The big notch is 10 degrees.

 

You are correct, Sir! Thanks for the tip. Went back and found the mark as you described it, very fine and small.
So, when I got what to the true TDC, the crank mark WAS aligned with the marks with the big 10 degree 'V', as you said. Those other more prominent marks at 2 o'clock facing the engine on the timing cover proper sure threw me off !
The correct ones are at 10 o'clock as you face the engine. Thanks Mini.
The degrees are marked on the indicator, but not visable in the pics
Seems like the orientation for the distributor was that the plug was pointing straight away from the block, or perpendicular, is that correct??

Chalk highlights the timing mark on the crank. It is at 0 degrees in this pic. The big 'V' is 10 degrees.

second view, same spot
Can't seem to find a picture of one mounted to the engine in my books.

 

Best way to find TDC is to pull #1 plug.
Take a socket and breaker bar to the bolt in the damper
put your thumb in the plug hole so it seals the hole.
turn the engine over until it blows your thumb off the hole
Take a drinking straw ( not in California LOL) and stick it in the plug hole.
slowly turn the engine back and forth a tiny amount watch the straw until it rises to it's highest point
You have found TDC

Now look at the damper and see where the marks land with the pointer
Dampers separate from the rubber between the 2 pieces, so the marks may or may not be correct. If TDC marks are not correct, replace the damper
If marks are correct,
Find TDC, then mark 10* for when you go to set the timing with a light.
I use white fingernail polish.

 

that's how i found the timing marks on my 95 351 now the timing is right and man it starts easy and has plenty of power.

 

Always good to know the basics on TDC and timing the engine firing.

Still need to orient this dizzy if anyone has a pic of a mounted I-6 distributor or can confirm the positioning ??
Guess it doesn't really matter too much, but there may be practical considerations, otherwise will go ahead and just stab it in.
BTW I did ADD the oil pump drive shaft as it was missing from the truck. Parts vultures had apparently taken it before rescued! LOL

 

I was about 2 degrees off here once i cheked with light

 

Here's my 95. hope it helps, keep in mind the modal is on the fender in 95

 

Thanks Guys! That does help and will go ahead and get it in now.
Good lookin' shop area KO, makes me green with envy.
Happy Easter to ya'll .
Maybe get a little done later this evening.