What will the fuel injection system require to resurrect ?

What would you consider critical to consider in potential purchase?

Thanks in advance, this is a different can of worms from my 52' , which has been in the family for 30 years now.

Looking for one to use for daily farm duty, a little newer, to give ole' Bob a little rest!

Appreciate your ideas and thoughts on the subject!

 

No such thing as an 88 (foot) 4.6L. Is it the 300 (4.9L) I6? Did someone swap in a modular 4.6 V8?

I had 9 -10 year old fuel in my gas tanks so I replaced both tanks, fuel pump modules and fuel filter.

 

OK, sorry for that .
It is a 1988 I-6 or the 300 4.9L .

so it will be 2 new tanks and fuel pump modules and filters at least

the fuel injection is new to me, so also wondering about the longevity of the wiring and computer aspects of a 'rescue'

like the potential of a long lasting engine if I can overcome the problems associated with getting it going again,

thanks for the reply

 

4.9 perhaps? I bought an 87 about 20 years ago that was abandoned at the mothers house after a tough life at the hands of a professional alcoholic. Still in use around the farm. The AC even works. The fuel injection is a blessing to the inline 6, it always had fuel distribution problems with a carb in the middle of a yard long manifold. A similar pet rescue was discussed here recently, and that guy I believe just replaced at least one tank & pump. If it was a carb you might risk starting it, but you don't want to risk polluting the FI, just not worth the risk, tanks and pumps are out there, fairly reasonable. Id go with the Carter pump, those are very good, USA made, the sending unit is superior to the OEM, most importantly; it is plug and play, no rewiring. Rock Auto has all that. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...fuel+tank,6268

 

Ha Ha, professional alcoholic, that's funny!
this is encouraging...
thanks for the warning about starting, will ask, think there is no battery so maybe safe there
wondering about them trying to 'turn it over' while pulling from the barn and thinking that the rings may have been damaged if they did that instead of leaving it in neutral for the pull out of the barn and across the way
appreciate the link for the pump and parts
it is the 4.9 by the way, thanks for the reply!

 

Reading thru the 4.9 posts to get some idea of the engine and it tendencies. Can not find anything pertaining to a transmission swap, so want to ask for a little help on this.

Are there problems with the fuel injection system when the transmission is changed from a three speed automatic to a four speed manual transmission?
Guess I am asking if there needs to be any kind of change due to losing (whatever) the automatic may be sensing or telling the engine. I do not know the exact 4 speed that was installed, but will try to find out tomorrow as I am going to view the truck.
My electrical and fuel injection knowledge is very limited so appreciate any insight you guys might give me.

The gearing was adjusted in the differential for the manual, so no worries there.

Seems like a really good forum and tons of information here, hope that i did not overlook in my search for the above.

 

2 or 4 Wheel Drive ?

 

It is a 2wd, vjsimone.

Also wondering about identifying the manual tranny from underneath?
Hoping it has the zf trans, is there an easy identifier for it from below?
thanks very much for your thoughts, terrific forum.

 

Being a 4 speed it won't be a ZF 5 speed.
It will either be a T18 or an NP435 and a very slim chance of a T19 if swapped in.
It doesn't really matter which 4 speed it is. They are all quality transmissions that will do well in a farm truck.


edit: there was also a 4 speed that was available in the early 80's with overdrive. I guess that could have been swapped in too. They were junk.
If it has granny first gear you are good.
Easy identifier is a PTO cover on the trans. If it has one it's a good transmission for farm use.

 

The injection / computer is pretty primitive, you should be able to go from auto to manual just leaving those wires dangle. Are you sure it is a 4 speed? the 88 should have the M5od Mazda 5 speed. Someone could have reached back, the 87 and previous were 4 speeds, and a pretty strong one at that. I particularly like my 87 running empty, or with just a bit of a load, it seems to be geared just right. My 96 which has the M5OD seems like first is over by the time the clutch is out & and it is time for 2nd. Still though a 2nd is a bit too high to just skip first and treat it as a granny gear. For trailer pulling though, I'd take the 5 speed every time, unless someone figures out how to get a 6 speed to work on that engine.

 

My truck had been sitting for a while before I got my hands on it, I dropped both tanks out and cleaned and resealed them using a kit from KBS coatings. KBS is an Australian company so not sure if you can get it in the states, otherwise I am sure there would be something similar over there.
On top of that I replaced all 3 pumps in my truck as well as the senders for the fuel gauge and fuel filter. That was over a year ago now and I've had no issues.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, super excited to see the truck this morning, as yet just going on the phone inquiry. It was a transmission swap from an auto to the purported 4 speed, so thats one of my big questions. I will see what markings are on the case underneath.change was done by a local transmission company, so fingers crossed that its all well done.There is also some documentation to look over. Curious about the rear gear too.
Going to have a look see for rust underneath at the same time, in the South so perhaps it won't be too bad.
Thanks for the word on the fuel injection/computer Eric, thatsbmy biggest question because of my weak diagnostics ability and feeble understanding there. But the mechanical stuff comes easy. Maybe an early model will help there.
Did not think about the senders rj, but with you on the other. Have used the tank coatings on some other vehicles with good success. Still have the tank I did on the 52' F-1 going strong.Dropping and checking or replacing those tanks and pumps is the first order of business. Will view all the fluids to see whats up there.
If it follows me back, wondering how to approach the first turn of the engine with regard to it having sat for 14 years. Those old rings will be dry as the Sahara, i'm thinking. What is you guys view about lubricating the cylinder walls prior to turning the crank. Concerned about fouling or stopping the injectors and wondering what may be the best solvent and technique to use ?
There was also mention of the head being milled slightly in connection with a "major tune up", and wondering whether that sounds right or typical as a dealer type of service back then for the I-6?
Otherwise the story seems legit and pieces seem to fit together. Will report back later with my findings and decision.
Appreciate everyone's thoughts and insights, this seems like a wholesome group, thank you all.

 

The injectors are tougher than they sound, likely you will do fine just dumping the tanks, & going with fresh fuel. In my ignorance, I just threw a battery in the 87 and drove it home. The rear pump lasted a short time, and I just used the front till this year, when the front and pressure pumps both failed. I pulled the bed and replaced all 3 pumps, and cleaned the rear tank as well as possible in position. Since you say you are in the south, that is the best approach; 6 bolts, a few wires, undo filler necks, a couple strong friends & Bob's your uncle. I take the tailgate off, unless using a loader to replace strong friends.

 

I dropped the tanks out of mine but from what I read on here as long as you have some helper for lifting the bed off is the way to go.

 

"Can not find anything pertaining to a transmission swap, so want to ask for a little help on this. Are there problems with the fuel injection system when the transmission is changed from a three speed automatic to a four speed manual transmission?
Guess I am asking if there needs to be any kind of change due to losing (whatever) the automatic may be sensing or telling the engine."



I believe the only communication from a 1988 2wd 4.9L auto tranny to the Engine Computer is the Vehicle Speed Sensor\Output Shaft Speed Sensor. So, no shift solenoid issues.

I don’t know if the Manual Tranny -vs- Automatic Tranny Speed Sensor makes a difference to the EECM/Engine Computer.

There are different EECM Calibrations for AT -vs- MT, C6/OAD ATs, as well as 4x4, High Altitude & California models.

Don’t know the differences of the calibration for AT -vs- MT, maybe a shift strategy in the automatic tranny EECM.

The Idle speed for an AT is about 650rpm in Gear, and the MT is about 750rpm, controlled by the EECM.

Chances are, this all will have minimal to no impact.