When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well nothing blew up on the test drive. That about where it ends. I am trying to figure out how the rear got off 1/2 a turn. They shouldn’t have had to break down any ujoints. And from what I am seeing they didn’t. So now the weights on the shaft is off by 1/2 a turn.
Before I have vibration a turn 45 and cleared up by 65. Now I am smooth until 60 or so and vibration from there up.
I am a complete idiot. Got a flashlight and looked under the truck again. Apparently I thought a scrap on the shaft was the alinement mark I made. It was not. So I will have to move it tomorrow. It would be really nice if that was the issue. But I am highly sceptical. My wife has fell in love with some furtinure down here so I think I will be pulling a 6x12 U-Haul trailer home. I sure home it is fixed with moving the shaft and not rattled apart on the way home.
So I rearranged the driveshaft without any improvement, which I didn’t think there would be. The more I have been thinking about it and thinking of what the driveline shop was talking about I am actually thinking the rear end might be going. Have a high pitched whine whenever I am on the gas. I am hopeing it stays together another 750 miles so I can get back home.
Would you guys think if I changed the fluid before I left tomorrow morning would help any? Or is it a lost cause at this point and time?
If it were me I would stick a finger in the fill hole and see what the fluid looks like.
If it is burnt/wasted then I would think that a fluid change would buy you some time. At the very least be sure that it is up to the right level. If the fluid looks ok then there probably isn't much to be gained by changing it.
If it were me I would stick a finger in the fill hole and see what the fluid looks like.
If it is burnt/wasted then I would think that a fluid change would buy you some time. At the very least be sure that it is up to the right level. If the fluid looks ok then there probably isn't much to be gained by changing it.
Fluid to me looked pretty rough. Dark brown for sure. I think I will drop the cover and change it. Get fresh fluid and limited slip treatment in it. It’s only money right. This vacation has been draining it for sure.
I change all fluids and filters on every used vehicle I buy....seen some strange things from from almost no fluid to transfer case fluid in gearboxes.As did, use the correct fluid and additives
Well, driveshafts and vibrations are a thing for me, my last 01 F350 was a Bitch on U joints and whenever they were replaced I had to have the shaft re balanced, even to the point where the original no grease U joints had to be put in for the shaft company to guarantee their repair and for the vibration to disappear. Good luck with getting it fixed while on the road, the whine doesn't sound good but I've never had a whine translate to a vibration, it's all about balance and proper alignment of all the joints.
I change all fluids and filters on every used vehicle I buy....seen some strange things from from almost no fluid to transfer case fluid in gearboxes.As did, use the correct fluid and additives
Normally I do as well. But I didn’t on this truck because the previous owner had put amsoil in everything. Gave me the extra he had. So bad choice for me. Thankful I have only put about 6,000 miles on the truck. Will be changing here in a couple mins.
Originally Posted by bubbasz1
Well, driveshafts and vibrations are a thing for me, my last 01 F350 was a Bitch on U joints and whenever they were replaced I had to have the shaft re balanced, even to the point where the original no grease U joints had to be put in for the shaft company to guarantee their repair and for the vibration to disappear. Good luck with getting it fixed while on the road, the whine doesn't sound good but I've never had a whine translate to a vibration, it's all about balance and proper alignment of all the joints.
Ya it makes me really mad at myself I didn’t have it balanced when out just for the heck of it. But what are you gonna do. Defiantly have vibration. Maybe just need a rebalance. Just hope I get home. Can deal with this then with all my tools and comfort zone.
Well changed the fluid. Really glad I did. The fluid looked like a watery butterscotch pudding. It was thick and frothy. I am guess water has gotten into it at some time. Not sure how. Hasn’t been on my watch. Cleaned out as good as I could with brake cleaner and filled with fresh fluid and additive. Guess we will see what the trip brings. Fingers crossed.
Here is what it looked like.
On a side note the tag and window sticker says 3.73 limited Slip. They must have changed the way it looks in there from my 99.
Your ring gear looks ok from here... i'm starting to think about rear wheel bearings. They share the same fluid. When you get home you will want to change it again and pull both rear axles/hubs and check bearings. That's the only way to get the bad fluid out of the bearing area anyway and you might find the noise you are chasing.
Your ring gear looks ok from here... i'm starting to think about rear wheel bearings. They share the same fluid. When you get home you will want to change it again and pull both rear axles/hubs and check bearings. That's the only way to get the bad fluid out of the bearing area anyway and you might find the noise you are chasing.
As much as I don’t want to change it again that probably makes sense. Does anybody have a good write up on how to pull them? With torque specs and such?
You probably won't have much mixture from the pumpkin to the bearings on your trip home so you could just pull inspect and clean the bearings and then top off the fluid. '
I had to remove the rear hubs on my last F250 to replace the parking brake for a safety inspection. There is a special socket for the hub nuts. I borrowed one from a local shop I know well. The actual nut is pretty neat, a whole lot more user friendly then the old style. You just torque it to 60 ft lbs, then back off 7 clicks for used bearings and 5 clicks for new bearings. and your good to go.
Once you pull the axles give the wheels a spin and see if you can feel/hear anything, also a good chance to spin the driveline (by hand) to try and track down your noise.
01-05-2018, 04:24 PM
