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Is the factory sway bar enough if the truck already has it? I had originally planned to install a Hellwig but when I got under the truck, I saw that it had a rear sway bar already installed. The guy at ATS seemed to think that it would be plenty with the C code rear springs. I'd considered just replacing the bushings and end links.
I would not replace a good sway bar in the rear if it is 30mm or larger. There are some smaller diameter bars Ford used in the rear...those I would replace with 30-32mm bar.
So...a couple of questions...ok 3 questions. I bought plugs and boots. I got Autolite Iridium plugs. Should I have gotten something else? Question #2. After reading a very long thread about solving the wandering problem by increasing caster to 5-6 deg, should I go ahead and put in some 4 deg wedges when I do the springs? And let the alignment shop adjust the sleeves for a total of 5-6 deg? Question #3. Since I'm doing the springs and expect to get 3-4" of lift, should I put some wedges on the rear axle to tilt the pinion up a little?
So...a couple of questions...ok 3 questions. I bought plugs and boots. I got Autolite Iridium plugs. Should I have gotten something else? Question #2. After reading a very long thread about solving the wandering problem by increasing caster to 5-6 deg, should I go ahead and put in some 4 deg wedges when I do the springs? And let the alignment shop adjust the sleeves for a total of 5-6 deg? Question #3. Since I'm doing the springs and expect to get 3-4" of lift, should I put some wedges on the rear axle to tilt the pinion up a little?
Pirate gave me some good advice, let the alignment shop do either wedges or bushings depending on what they can do. I told my alignment guys I wanted a minimum of 5.5 degrees positive caster but preferred 6-7 degrees. I could care less if the steering is heavy in a parking lot (it's not though). I couldn't get them booked to do it, though they took initial measurements from the Ex as it sat with ATS rears and front X codes, and it looked like 2* wedges would work great. I ordered the wedges during that time as a backup plan. When next I spoke with them he said, didn't you already order 2* wedges? LOL I never told him I did, just that I had thought about it. Told him why yes, I did. I told him I might put them in myself since I had to put the new u-bolts in that Junior sent me for the fronts (and I did put them in). They told me it'd be another few days before they could get mine in to do the alignment with either wedges or bushings but would take care of it. A week later I found time off work enough to run it up there for an alignment, but dang it already drove perfect. He aligned it, and I have left front 6.6* positive caster, and right front 7.1*. Drives like it should now. I don't think you have to be afraid of doing it, but for me I had to open up the hole on the wedges as they came with a new smaller diameter bolt for the spring pack. I didn't want those wedges that you can just slide in there...too dangerous if they squirt out....and they can. The through bolts for the spring pack were clean and came out just fine, and reused to close the pack back up. Of course I c-clamped the spring pack in two spots outside of the perch to make sure it didn't separate and that I could get the bolt back in. Your call, but your alignment shop needs to know what they can work with. I think it would be a lot easier to just have your alignment shop do the work if you're short on time like I was. Hope this helps. The wedges seemed to put her at much more caster than what I expected...to me it's perfect for this huge tank of a truck.
Ugh...all 4 ball joints are bad. And the cheap "new" front tires that came on it are "egg shaped" and can't be balanced. And the tire shop said I'd have to do a complete alignment if I wanted a caster measurement. The alignment tech did tell me he didn't think he could dial in 5-6 deg with the sleeves and suggested putting in 2 deg wedges when I install the springs. I'm assuming the general consensus is that Moog is worth the extra money? ~$100 for O'Reilly brand vs ~$260 for Moog.
Is the factory sway bar enough if the truck already has it? I had originally planned to install a Hellwig but when I got under the truck, I saw that it had a rear sway bar already installed. The guy at ATS seemed to think that it would be plenty with the C code rear springs. ...
"Plenty" for what?
The springs are for carrying weight, especially when adding a trailer.
The anti-roll bars are for handling, keeping the vehicle flatter and more under control in turns and high cross winds.
The Ex's did not come with a rear anti-roll bar, except for the last year or so it was included in the "Trailer tow package".
If the Hellwig bar is 2mm larger diameter than yours it will provide more roll resistance, similar to going to stronger leaf springs.
The OEM front bar is not that large and Hellwig offers a larger front bar that is matched to their rear bar.
Again, similar to going to stronger leaf springs front & rear.
Given that I'm going to X/C code springs and my Ex has the tow package, "plenty" meant enough sway control to make it handle well while towing. Hard to justify spending the money for the Hellwig when there's already a bar there that might deliver adequate performance. If I didn't have a factory bar, I'd definitely go with a Hellwig.
Given that I'm going to X/C code springs and my Ex has the tow package, "plenty" meant enough sway control to make it handle well while towing. ...
Are you sure yours has the "Tow Package" option?
All Ex's came with a trailer hitch, trailer connectors and dual mirrors - standard.
Not sure what the "Tow Package" added in the later years, other than the rear anti-roll bar.
What is the diameter of your bar?
It's probably a stock F250 rear bar, 30mm.
Personally, I want all the steering control I can reasonably get, it's a safety issue when towing.
Recently I was towing our 23' TH on the freeway at 65mph.
We were a 100ft behind a semi when a pickup in front of the semi dropped a ladder which I didn't see.
I wondered why the semi swerved to the right, then I saw the ladder.
At first I was going to go left and drifted over the line, but the ladder was across my lane and the next lane to my left.
I swerved back to the right, onto the shoulder and back into my lane just missing the ladder.
Not a hint of wiggle, just flowed right thru the maneuver without a problem, except my heart rate was probably double.
I'm doubting the factory tow package based on the small mirrors, I think they were the about the only difference (with the exception of the sometimes rear sway bar) between the "package' and not, everything else was the same.
Ok...not debating the "tow package". What I'd read was that the ones that had a factory rear sway bar were the ones that had the factory tow package. Mine has a not Hellwig sway bar under the rear. That much is for certain.
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