What's peoples thought on size for a remote oil filter and cooler as far as AN-line size?

 

10 AN
But why?

 

My build is a psuedo pre-runner. It is getting some go fast goodies. All of my builds use SSbraided lines and AN- fittings. Just most of my builds don't use FE motors and was wondering if there were any preferences.

 

nice looking truck


Fert

 

I always see 10AN as a suggestion from people with the added, "No smaller than 8AN" but I can never seem to find an adapter bigger than 6AN. So how does that work out?

 

Thanks Fert. My rule is Flow vs. pressure. Outgoing flow diameter size on the adapter ( for the oil filter in my case ) diameter is 1/2" not so for port size to match on AN- side it is going to be a -6. It's early no coffee yet so I could be scrambling things could be -8. Now we have the distance the fluid must travel in both out and in lines and the oil cooler to also think about. One would think it was just plug and play.

 

I used AN-8 on my FE with remote dual oil filters. This provides a 0.50" ID which I calculated as the minimum acceptable because that is the smallest ID I could find in the stock oil route. An AN-10 system probably wouldn't hurt as an AN-6 system might.
My other reason for picking AN-8 over AN-10 had to do with the space between the oil filter adapter and the remote oil filters. Getting a good curve in the lines would have been difficult or impossible with AN-10.
I haven't yet run this engine so all of the above is speculative.

 

Am slightly at a disadvantage since I don't have any fitting here at home. Does look like the 6- is going to be more restrictive than the 8-. As to the curving of the hosing. The adapter shown has the openings stacked so it looks as 90* fitting will work well. I am using a Fram HP6 and the old skool Fram mount as well.
Have always hated getting oil everywhere, when changing it out, figure this will be located in a nice accessible area.

 

Here are a few images from my install.

The remote oil filter adaptor that fits on the block:



Note the labels indicating the direction of flow. It is important to run he oil through the filters in the right direction.



Here's why the curve of the lines was important in my case. Putting the filters further away would lessen this concern.

 

FRAM

 

I notice that you're using a Fram Racing oil filter which has very different specs than the standard Fram filter "analyzed" in the video.
It is very difficult to get solid data about oil filters for at least two reasons: 1) there is no compulsion to publishing performance data so few, if any, vendors share the info consumers might find useful in making their purchasing decisions and 2) while the outside appearance of an oil filter might not change, the innards often do because the actual manufacturer can change from year to year. Thus, putting a filter canister on a lathe and opening it up to view the innards may produce different results depending upon when you do that. There are far fewer oil filter manufacturers than there are oil filter brands so several filters look different on the outside while they are the same on the inside. For example, Mobile 1 and K&N filters are both manufactured by Champion and are identical internally.
I like the K&N because of the nut on the end and will be using two of them on my truck after a 30 minute engine break-in which will be followed by an oil change and tossing the Fram filters.

Here's a trivia question: How many of us have actually used one of the very early filters that utilized a roll of toilet paper? See this HAMB posting if you disbelieve.

 

Flowney, I actually considered the toilet paper route for nostalgia sake, till I remembered that it has way too much fiber getting into the system. Loved the polished canisters though. Again I am using the Hp6(1.5" inlet) more for the old skool look on the SC. My others have the billet filters with SS micro screens. We will see how these fair on the 74 broncco.
These are for my 74 Bronco

mounted

 

Am slightly at a disadvantage since I don't have any fitting here at home. Does look like the 6- is going to be more restrictive than the 8-. As to the curving of the hosing. The adapter shown has the openings stacked so it looks as 90* fitting will work well. I am using a Fram HP6 and the old skool Fram mount as well.
Have always hated getting oil everywhere, when changing it out, figure this will be located in a nice accessible area.

 

-10 should be a consideration, pressure drop through fittings and hose length can be a concern, especially if you will be running it hard at higher RPM.
You can see a 10-15 psi drop in oil pressure at upper RPM through remote filters and coolers, I would say -10 especially on a FE, they don't have the best oiling system, is the oil hole in the block to the oil filter adapter opened up? (common modification) it's the turns that hurt, use large radius fittings and a -10 will flow better than a -12 with the billet sharp turn fittings.
Just my 2 cents, only worth a penny.

 

Good info to consider. What about fluid content now. You can't expect the sytem now that it is longer to survive on the stock fluid capacities. Placement of the filters and cooler as well. I try to keep the cooler and filters below the at least level with the pan. I pre-fill the filters and cooler and a bit more for the lines so that there not the huge air pocket and the location so at shut of they don't re-drain all the extra fluid into the pan. Your take on this.