Engine Removal Thread! (With humor and sadness)
#62
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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I do appreciate the conversation on this thread. I haven't really been around the 7.3 forums in years, so I'm naturally inclined to do business with some of the legacy companies.
I'm going to spend some time reading around a bit but in the end a good point was made, I should probably deal with a company who can go ahead and send me a pump, instead of risking a delay while waiting on my pump to turn around.
I'm going to spend some time reading around a bit but in the end a good point was made, I should probably deal with a company who can go ahead and send me a pump, instead of risking a delay while waiting on my pump to turn around.
Is one HPOP better than the other? I don't know...?
#64
#66
#67
I have to saw that not only is it fun to have an extra set of hands to help with the tear down, but that same friend is going to be riding south in the truck with me when he gets back from his out of country trip.
He was looking pretty nervous after the last set of pictures I sent him.
He was looking pretty nervous after the last set of pictures I sent him.
#68
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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Had some buddies helping work on S10 gas tank, but the bed bolts were rusted and wouldn't come off.
My Father in Law was there hanging out with us a bit.
I sent him outside when we decided we had to burn the bolts off with the torch. Told him, "Someone has to live to tell the story"
A good wrenching buddy knows what stories to tell
My Father in Law was there hanging out with us a bit.
I sent him outside when we decided we had to burn the bolts off with the torch. Told him, "Someone has to live to tell the story"
A good wrenching buddy knows what stories to tell
#69
Just an update for your enjoyment:
My trip in Atlanta is about to wrap up, I'll head home to enjoy Christmas at home with the girlfriend and my two lovely dogs.
Then I wage complete war!
I went much further than I probably needed to but that is usually how I do.
I don't know this truck well at all, and I definitely don't trust most of the people that ever touched it. I could have maybe skipped things like a new oil cooler, HPOP and injectors but I have a strict work schedule in Alaska, and with my baja logistics and plans, a single break down could be an end all for me, wasting years of time and money to pursue this dream. Spending extra money now, could be saving me thousands somewhere between Alaska and Baja. At least that is what I'm telling myself so I don't cry at the CC bill.
At 18 years of age, she needs a GOOD once over so I can put her to work for another 20 and know exactly what I'm dealing with. At least now, I'll know the truck and there is solid value in that fact.
The point was made about not being caught without my HPOP, its a valid point. On top of that, I wanted to try and send some business to 1023 Diesel, which is local to me in Alaska.
- Ordered CNCFAB HPOP with lines and X over line from 1023 Diesel in Alaska.
- Ordered EBPV delete and pedestal, along with new sway bar end links from Full Force Diesel.
-Ordered from Riffraff: Oil cooler, moroso oil pan, 910 springs, water pump, t stat housing, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets and UHVCs, injector cups and damn near every o-ring/seal/gasket I need to get this girl back together.
- Sent injectors off to Rosewood Diesel in California for a overhaul and inspection. They are aware of my short turn around needs. Jim was incredibly quick and detailed with my e-mails.
- Need to order carpet and take the drive line somewhere for new u-joints.
Then, I think I'm going to be out of excuses and will have to start working on it again.
My trip in Atlanta is about to wrap up, I'll head home to enjoy Christmas at home with the girlfriend and my two lovely dogs.
Then I wage complete war!
I went much further than I probably needed to but that is usually how I do.
I don't know this truck well at all, and I definitely don't trust most of the people that ever touched it. I could have maybe skipped things like a new oil cooler, HPOP and injectors but I have a strict work schedule in Alaska, and with my baja logistics and plans, a single break down could be an end all for me, wasting years of time and money to pursue this dream. Spending extra money now, could be saving me thousands somewhere between Alaska and Baja. At least that is what I'm telling myself so I don't cry at the CC bill.
At 18 years of age, she needs a GOOD once over so I can put her to work for another 20 and know exactly what I'm dealing with. At least now, I'll know the truck and there is solid value in that fact.
The point was made about not being caught without my HPOP, its a valid point. On top of that, I wanted to try and send some business to 1023 Diesel, which is local to me in Alaska.
- Ordered CNCFAB HPOP with lines and X over line from 1023 Diesel in Alaska.
- Ordered EBPV delete and pedestal, along with new sway bar end links from Full Force Diesel.
-Ordered from Riffraff: Oil cooler, moroso oil pan, 910 springs, water pump, t stat housing, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets and UHVCs, injector cups and damn near every o-ring/seal/gasket I need to get this girl back together.
- Sent injectors off to Rosewood Diesel in California for a overhaul and inspection. They are aware of my short turn around needs. Jim was incredibly quick and detailed with my e-mails.
- Need to order carpet and take the drive line somewhere for new u-joints.
Then, I think I'm going to be out of excuses and will have to start working on it again.
#70
What about the hoes/fittings? Did you stay with the SuperDuty STC fittings, or are you switching to the OBS '94.5-'97 JIC fittings?
I am debating these two questions myself.
......-Ordered from Riffraff: Oil cooler, moroso oil pan, 910 springs, water pump, t stat housing, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets and UHVCs, injector cups and damn near every o-ring/seal/gasket I need to get this girl back together.
- Need to order carpet and take the drive line somewhere for new u-joints.
https://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoC...ils_box_holder
On another note, on the interior, since you already have the interior gutted down to the shell, have you thought about Dynomat or a cheaper alternative? Now would be the time to do i. Given the very long distances you intend to drive, it may well be worth it. They can reduce drone and chassis/body noises and "booming". Overall, on long drives you can reduce driver fatigue by making things quieter and more comfortable in the cabin. It also offers some temperature insulation as well. Fat Mat is another similar product. https://www.fatmat.com/
I have also heard of people using roofing repair material as a cheap alternative. One brand is called Peal-N-Seal. Supposedly it works well everywhere but vertical surfaces. So, put it on the floor, but use the real Dynomat for the roof.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/....711889/page-6
I got lucky and was able to pick up a couple of open boxes of DynoMat on Craigslist, for cheap. When I do my cab/frame swap , this stuff will get plastered all over the inside of the cab.
As for the u-joints, A.) I would highly recommend using high quality Dana Spicer parts only. Particularly with your intended usage. Failure is not option. Most of the other parts store brands ( including Moog) just don't hold up. Spend a little more on the Dana-Spicer stuff. They'll last longer.
B.) Don't forget to have them inspect, and repair/replace the double cardan/cv joint itself, including the pivot ball and the stud it rides on. If the stud is worn, the only fix is having a new yoke welded on. These are a very commonly worn area, on both front and rear shaft ( for those that have it), yet they are frequently ignored due to the difficulty in servicing them.
Just as an FYI, on the front shafts, there are 2 different style of CV ( on the t-case end). 1 is a Saginaw style, and the other a Spicer style. According to a couple of driveline experts I spoke to, technically the Saginaw style is slightly stronger/smoother operating due to the length of the yoke ears/angle and how it rotates,etc..... The Saginaw style is less common, and harder to find parts for, as well as being a little more difficult to work on. They told me why, but I forget now. The complete shafts are totally interchangeable between the 2, but not the yoke/CV parts. So, just be aware that may come up. Of course a competent driveshaft shop can remove one style yoke and weld on a replacement of the other style if needed.
#71
not sure how far in the process you are but with that 6 speed now would be a good time to swap in a splitter (not sure what the name is honestly) but it would effectively give you a 12 speed, a Hi and a Lo gear for each main gear (direct drive and OD), at least that is what I would love to do with my truck thats an Auto...
#72
not sure how far in the process you are but with that 5 speed now would be a good time to swap in a splitter (not sure what the name is honestly) but it would effectively give you a 10 speed, a Hi and a Lo gear for each main gear (direct drive and OD), at least that is what I would love to do with my truck thats an Auto...
An actual gear splitter like you described would be a clunky cumbersome thing to use in this application. They are more for BIG trucks.
What I think you probably meant to describe is a GearVendors Over/Under Drive. ( The under part doesn't really make sense and isn't true, but its part of the name) . This is a 1 speed auxillary planetary transmission. It can be activated via an electric solenoid, and can be shifted on/off on the fly. ( Although they recommend using the clutch on manuals).
Its primary use is as an additional overdrive, to further reduce engine rpm while cruising, thereby theoretically saving fuel.
It can also be used as a gear splitter, due to its fixed overdrive ratio. It can be especially useful on vehicles in which there is a wide ratio difference between gears in the transmission. Activating the GearVendors unit allows for another "gear" in between what your transmission provides. Unfortunately, the unit's hydraulic pump is driven off the the transmission output shaft, so it will not produce enough pressure to activate the clutches and the overdrive, below about 35mph road speed, so it can't be used to split the low gear on the ZF6 for example ( and probably not 1st gear either).
So, in reality, you would have a 10 speed, if you split 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and double OD after 5th. So, you would do Low, 1st, 2nd, 2nd+OD, 3rd, 3rd+ OD, 4th, 4th+OD, 5th, 5th+OD.
I've often thought that if one could find a way to plumb in an external pressure regulated hydraulic pump, you COULD make it engage safely ( for the clutches/internals) at any road speed ( even at a stop). Of course, doing so will void the warranty, and these things are not cheap. I think a new one is about $3500 +. Used ones rarely come on the market,and when they do, they aren't much cheaper then new. Additionally, GearVendors are real dicks about selling you parts for a used unit. They WANT to strangle any secondary market. Eah vehicle/trans/t-case combo requires different adapters to mount the the unit to your trans. So, if you buy a used one from a different vehicle, you need a new adapter fro GV. The cast aluminum adapter is almost as much as a complete new unit/kit.
So, its a great product, but very expensive, and sold by a greedy company.
Gear Vendors under/overdrive transmissions the most awarded auxiliary transmissions.
#73
carguy3j,
I went with a stage 1 pump, and the lines at the older style, which I believe is basically JIC fittings. By ordering them with the pump, the correct fittings will be installed when I get the pump.
I did order the one piece gasket for the pan. Having done one 7.3 oil pan before, which didn't set right, I'll be giving this motor plenty of time in my garage to set properly.
Good note on the carpet, I've been googling around. I do REALLY want to use this time to install something like dynamat but I know its costly and I'm not sure how will it installs in our winter temperatures. I am interested in doing it though so I appreciate the suggestions.
Thank you for the note on the u joints as well. I have no idea what kind of mileage is on the drive train because my vehicle was ZF swapped maybe a year or two before I bought it. Based on how poorly everything else was done, I'll just assume its in bad shape to start and have it looked at.
I went with a stage 1 pump, and the lines at the older style, which I believe is basically JIC fittings. By ordering them with the pump, the correct fittings will be installed when I get the pump.
I did order the one piece gasket for the pan. Having done one 7.3 oil pan before, which didn't set right, I'll be giving this motor plenty of time in my garage to set properly.
Good note on the carpet, I've been googling around. I do REALLY want to use this time to install something like dynamat but I know its costly and I'm not sure how will it installs in our winter temperatures. I am interested in doing it though so I appreciate the suggestions.
Thank you for the note on the u joints as well. I have no idea what kind of mileage is on the drive train because my vehicle was ZF swapped maybe a year or two before I bought it. Based on how poorly everything else was done, I'll just assume its in bad shape to start and have it looked at.
#74
#75