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Engine Removal Thread! (With humor and sadness)

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  #16  
Old 12-16-2017, 01:03 AM
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Interesting... The first ZF6 I have seen with long dowel pins. All the rest have short pins I have worked on. Do you know if it a factory manual or swapped?
 
  #17  
Old 12-16-2017, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fastktm
Interesting... The first ZF6 I have seen with long dowel pins. All the rest have short pins I have worked on. Do you know if it a factory manual or swapped?

It was once an automatic, swapped sometime before I bought it.
 
  #18  
Old 12-16-2017, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Quick444
It was once an automatic, swapped sometime before I bought it.

Darn. Got all excited.
 
  #19  
Old 12-16-2017, 07:05 AM
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Oil Rail End Plug reseal kit at Diesel Orings: Oil Rail End Plugs - UVC Cylinder Heads



About $9

I did not replace mine, they weren't leaking.
 
  #20  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:07 AM
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Re seal the entire engine, and when it comes to sealing the oil pan and part of the front timing cover make sure you use Motorcraft TA-31 or the I ternational goop. From the pics looks like you plenums were sweating a bit or the oil rail plugs that connect the HPOP lines were leaking. Also looks like the oil pump housing is leaking too a good time to replace the oil pump, also make sure the harmonic balancer bushing aint worn out.
 
  #21  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Quick444
I would be extremely thrilled if those fittings were not cross threaded. However, everything else being a disaster on the truck, I'm expecting that to be the case.
The holes, for the fuel rail test port plugs and fittings, are not drilled and tapped perpendicularly to the top face of the head. This gives the illusion that they are crooked when screwed in.
 
  #22  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:50 AM
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Maybe I am missing something but why did you have to pull the engine?
 
  #23  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mueckster
The holes, for the fuel rail test port plugs and fittings, are not drilled and tapped perpendicularly to the top face of the head. This gives the illusion that they are crooked when screwed in.


I suspected as much, but couldn't say for sure. THANK YOU for setting the record straight!

@OP- Gasoila is your friend for fuel NPT threads
 
  #24  
Old 12-16-2017, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Quick444
I really enjoy how these fuel fittings were installed.
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I believe that that is known as an Aeroquip fitting there, am I wrong? I also do not recall seeing any of them on my engine, am I wrong again?
 
  #25  
Old 12-16-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
I believe that that is known as an Aeroquip fitting there, am I wrong? I also do not recall seeing any of them on my engine, am I wrong again?
I'll bet they are JIC? I want to switch to those. I think the RRD FRx lines already use something like that, so just one rear and one front to eliminate the Parker fittings and source of leaks

@OP- I ended up dressing the pedestal face, top and bottom when I had it off, too. It had a nick in it with just a tiny burr. I don't know if that was going to cause a leak or not, but it was easy to address while off. Bottom mate of turbo, too
 
  #26  
Old 12-17-2017, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Oil Rail End Plug reseal kit at Diesel Orings: Oil Rail End Plugs - UVC Cylinder Heads



About $9

I did not replace mine, they weren't leaking.
Thank you sir! I really didn't even consider these as a possible problem. While continuing my tear down tonight, I found one of the front plugs to be almost loose!!! I have lost a lot of confidence in this engine based on the the previous people who have touched it.

Originally Posted by z31freakify
Re seal the entire engine, and when it comes to sealing the oil pan and part of the front timing cover make sure you use Motorcraft TA-31 or the I ternational goop. From the pics looks like you plenums were sweating a bit or the oil rail plugs that connect the HPOP lines were leaking. Also looks like the oil pump housing is leaking too a good time to replace the oil pump, also make sure the harmonic balancer bushing aint worn out.
Thank you, after yesterday's discoveries I opted to just keep going on the tear down. I've found some troubling things with this old girl.

Originally Posted by mueckster
The holes, for the fuel rail test port plugs and fittings, are not drilled and tapped perpendicularly to the top face of the head. This gives the illusion that they are crooked when screwed in.
Well, I'm thrilled to find at least one thing that wasn't screwed up!

Originally Posted by 00t444e
Maybe I am missing something but why did you have to pull the engine?
This truck has oil leaks all over the place, including oil pan gasket. I bought the truck for a pretty discounted price because of infinite oil leaks. The price was comparable to what I would need to dump into my F250 to trust is again.

This truck with mods, interior swap, non salvage title and long bed, made this the smart choice.

Having found all the short cuts that I have, I'm happy to be doing this. I have 15 to 20k in miles planned for this girl in the up coming year or two. Alaska to Mexico and back! While I'm hating the damages to the wallet, finding these now is saving me down the road, I hope.
 
  #27  
Old 12-17-2017, 03:30 AM
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Well, my day continued with the truck. Had to go upgrade my engine stand in order to tear the ol' girl down some more. Have continued to find some scary stuff. I'm SO close to just tearing it all the way down, having the block sent out for .020 over and ordering a rebuild kit.

I was happy to find what I believe to be forged rods today. A stud with a nut instead of bolts in the connecting rod caps, right?

At any rate, here are some more pictures.

Rear of the motor. Ironically, I have oil everywhere but the damned drain off the back of the V. However, the bell housing is full of engine oil.







The hole into the back was dry in appearence.






It was a wonderful weekend day at the house.

My two room mates working on a Duramax which just under went a trans rebuild and my new to me F350 getting the queen's treatment.





 
  #28  
Old 12-17-2017, 03:32 AM
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Spent the afternoon cleaning up around the garage and making sure my room mate didn't attempt to snag all my goodies for his Duramax.

Couldn't wait to tear down the engine and find more crimes!



Was thrilled to find the absence of a passenger side exhaust manifold gasket.



I also found the driver's side engine mount to be held one by only one of the 4 bolts the hold that two pieces together.
 
  #29  
Old 12-17-2017, 03:39 AM
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Finished tearing down the motor. This is fine. I'm totally not going to panic.

Only 29 days until my road trip to Phoenix.

On a serious note, I'm really unsure on what to do.

I'm this close to just having the motor cleaned up by a machine shop, ordering a rebuild kit and assembling a new motor.

I'm going to replace the turbo pedastal with a none EBPV mount, and remove the flap in the turbo.

The HPOP lines are new, so I'm not going to replace those.

I'm glad those fittings are actually properly installed! I do not suspect a fuel leak at all.

I'm going to order a new HPOP as part of this based on the leaks and suspect old age of the current one.

I found some evidence of soot in one of the injector cups. At this point, I'm considering replacing them while I'm here.

Tomorrow is a busy day of Christmas shopping and time with my friends and family.

I still have more to tear down on the truck actually.

I need to:
Drop the fuel tank for hutch and harpoon mods.
Drop the rest of the exhaust to install the 5 inch single
Remove the rats nest of wiring to the cheap gauge setup.
Install my dynatrac free spin kit.
 
  #30  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:32 AM
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Although it looks okay in the pic, it would be about an hour or less to pull the oil cooler and rebuild it with new orings and gaskets, since the motor is out.

Oil in coolant is the risk otherwise. Unless it has been redone already?

29 days is SHORT TIME, considering shipping times to Alaska

Really like all the pics and the lightning speed you're working at it
 


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