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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 01:47 PM
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Rocker stud question

The head that was originally on my motor had the 3/8 studs. The head was cracked, so I ordered a reman from autozoo. The new head had 5/16 studs. I ordered new nuts and installed everything as if it was the 3/8. The valves were set and all seems good. Reading one of the other posts yesterday, it got the impression that the heads with the 5/16 nut are supposed to have the nut tightened all the way down. Am i misunderstanding this?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 01:59 PM
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Yes that is correct the 5/16 stud is a positive stop. You torque them to 19 - 24 ft pds.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 02:08 PM
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Even the ones with a 5/16 thread have a 3/8 stud (with a shoulder).
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 02:20 PM
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So if I torque them, wont the lifters be completely depressed?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 02:47 PM
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No they should be in the correct range of travel.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 03:20 PM
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Is this what your studs look like? These have a 3/8" shaft that necks down to a 5/16" thread.

The rocker arm and ball are 3/8" diameter and slide down on the shaft. Then, the 5/16" nut stops when it gets to the flare.

The flare is designed to be distanced perfectly so that when the nut hits it, everything in your valve train geometry is lined up just right. The valves are set, the push rods are pressed just the right amount into the lifters, etc.

The issue with this design is that if you change anything, you can't make any adjustments aside from changing the length of the push rods. But when you're Ford and you're popping out millions of these motors out of the factory, it makes things much faster.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 03:45 PM
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yes, my studs look like that. Issue is, if I tightened any further on the nuts, I bottomed out in the lifter. Push rods are "standard length" according to autozone. ( I had to replace a couple chewed up ones. ) I'll have to take the v cover and side cover off and look again when I get home.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 03:49 PM
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It's possible that the reman head you have was planed to clean it up. If you shave metal off the head, the distance between the rocker arm and the lifter decreases. This is why there are also 0.060" undersized pushrods.

If you're certain your push rods are bottoming out in the lifter, you may want to try a set of those.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 04:18 PM
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Also if you had a valve job done it is possible that the valves are deeper in the head that will make shorter pushrods necessary.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 06:45 PM
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If you really did bottom out the lifter plunger the valve(s) would be hanging open. Are you down on compression in one or more cylinders?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 06:53 PM
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If you ran the engine with the valves adjusted the way you said to start with, the the lifters are pumped full of oil, when you torque the nuts down they have to have a little time to bleed back down. that should not take long. If you have compression on every cylinder then it should stabilize while running and be ok.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 10:12 AM
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Engine has not been run yet. Its still on the stand. Lifters are brand new, so other than assembly lube, they should not be pumped up. I adjusted while at tdc on the cylinders I was working on and watched the lifters compress as I worked. Ill double check it when I get home, but I am fairly certain a couple of them bottomed out. If nothing else, sitting in the semi adjusted state should have pushed any oil out.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 11:35 AM
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If they are on the base circle of the cam they should not be bottomed out, if they are on the ramp or the nose of the lobe they will be bottomed out. rotate the engine and you will see. The way the positive stop studs work puts the lifter travel of the plunger in about mid position. The plunger travel on a Ford lifter should be approx .140, the preload should be approx .070
 
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