need so help
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 11
From: DARTMOUTH MA
need so help
so I'm in the process of installing a new fuel pump.
the problem is I CANT get the banjo bolt started. ive tried EVERYTHING.
The other issue is that the turbo cant be removed. long story.....
So my question to you is can I cut the two fuel lines going to the back of the head so it allows me to install the banjo bolt and then use fuel line to join the lines back together after the pump is installed.
trust me this is my only way.
if so what size fuel line do I use to connect them?
thx
the problem is I CANT get the banjo bolt started. ive tried EVERYTHING.
The other issue is that the turbo cant be removed. long story.....
So my question to you is can I cut the two fuel lines going to the back of the head so it allows me to install the banjo bolt and then use fuel line to join the lines back together after the pump is installed.
trust me this is my only way.
if so what size fuel line do I use to connect them?
thx
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Those connections are under about 70 psi of pressure, I think you're going to have a tough time getting fuel line to seal up well on a smooth line at that pressure, especially given the vibration and heat they see back there.
I feel for you, I had a heck of a time getting the banjo bolt started the first time I did a stock pump in one of these. Seems to me I used some rags or something to help support things so I could get everything lined up correctly. There's just not much room for fingers back there...
I feel for you, I had a heck of a time getting the banjo bolt started the first time I did a stock pump in one of these. Seems to me I used some rags or something to help support things so I could get everything lined up correctly. There's just not much room for fingers back there...
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
Disconnect the two fuel lines at the back of the heads to give you some wiggle room at the banjo bolt. If you do this though,you will probably need to replace the two square o-rings on those lines.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 11
From: DARTMOUTH MA
what will I need for tools?
thx
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
I'm a big guy with big hands, but long fingers and it took me about 1/2 day to get that banjo bolt threads started, so it's possible. I would borrow a little person if possible and see if their smaller hands can reach in there. Actually it's more using two fingers, one each hand. If everything doesn't line up good you can loosen the pump bolts a bit and raise it slightly, I think that is what I did.
The lines at the back of the head aren't too bad to disconnect but can't see how that is going to help and might cause leaks in the future. The banjo bolt is plenty long enough if pump and bolt is aligned properly.
The lines at the back of the head aren't too bad to disconnect but can't see how that is going to help and might cause leaks in the future. The banjo bolt is plenty long enough if pump and bolt is aligned properly.
New User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 6
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Reading this has already answered one of my questions...I will not attempt to replace my fuel pump myself. My issue is recurring with the mechanical fuel pump on my 1997 F-250 Powerstroke. I've had to replace 4 pumps in 6 years. One failed in less than 12 months and was covered under warranty but all the others were out of my pocket. They last 16 months on average.
Truck is well maintained, fuel filter replaced regularly and clean when replaced, no crud, metal fuel tanks as far as I know so no tank delamination, Obviously there is another issue that my mechanics choose to ignore. Since the trucks runs the same with a broken pump ( some of the failed pumps had a broken piston) can't I just eliminate the pump which also leaks fuel when they fail? Thoughts?
Truck is well maintained, fuel filter replaced regularly and clean when replaced, no crud, metal fuel tanks as far as I know so no tank delamination, Obviously there is another issue that my mechanics choose to ignore. Since the trucks runs the same with a broken pump ( some of the failed pumps had a broken piston) can't I just eliminate the pump which also leaks fuel when they fail? Thoughts?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Reading this has already answered one of my questions...I will not attempt to replace my fuel pump myself. My issue is recurring with the mechanical fuel pump on my 1997 F-250 Powerstroke. I've had to replace 4 pumps in 6 years. One failed in less than 12 months and was covered under warranty but all the others were out of my pocket. They last 16 months on average.
Truck is well maintained, fuel filter replaced regularly and clean when replaced, no crud, metal fuel tanks as far as I know so no tank delamination, Obviously there is another issue that my mechanics choose to ignore. Since the trucks runs the same with a broken pump ( some of the failed pumps had a broken piston) can't I just eliminate the pump which also leaks fuel when they fail? Thoughts?
Truck is well maintained, fuel filter replaced regularly and clean when replaced, no crud, metal fuel tanks as far as I know so no tank delamination, Obviously there is another issue that my mechanics choose to ignore. Since the trucks runs the same with a broken pump ( some of the failed pumps had a broken piston) can't I just eliminate the pump which also leaks fuel when they fail? Thoughts?
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
I'm a big guy with big hands, but long fingers and it took me about 1/2 day to get that banjo bolt threads started, so it's possible. I would borrow a little person if possible and see if their smaller hands can reach in there. Actually it's more using two fingers, one each hand. If everything doesn't line up good you can loosen the pump bolts a bit and raise it slightly, I think that is what I did.
The lines at the back of the head aren't too bad to disconnect but can't see how that is going to help and might cause leaks in the future. The banjo bolt is plenty long enough if pump and bolt is aligned properly.
The lines at the back of the head aren't too bad to disconnect but can't see how that is going to help and might cause leaks in the future. The banjo bolt is plenty long enough if pump and bolt is aligned properly.
Heres my idea. let me know what you guys think.
So all I need is to be able to turn the pump a degree or two to get the banjo bolt started I think. Ive been trying to get it threaded while its bolted down. And havnt had any luck at all. The problem is when I unbolt the pump it starts to rise. So my question is how much turning of the cam shaft do I need to get the pump sit on the block without bolting it down?
So is this a good idea?
thx
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Yes, you can turn the engine over by hand to get the cam lobe to drop enough that the pump won't be pushed up out of the block. You might have to take the crankshaft half a revolution or something, depending on where the cam lobe is at.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 11
From: DARTMOUTH MA
So i tried all day to get that banjo bolt started. With no luck.
So i purchased orings for the lines going to the nack of the head.
I loosened the nuts that go to the back of the head. My question is can i pull those solid fuel lines out with removing the turbo? Is there a trick to remove it?
Thx
So i purchased orings for the lines going to the nack of the head.
I loosened the nuts that go to the back of the head. My question is can i pull those solid fuel lines out with removing the turbo? Is there a trick to remove it?
Thx
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 11
From: DARTMOUTH MA
I want to jump on this today. Only reason for a bump.
Will i be able to throw the new orings on the lines while its in the stock position?
Or do i need to remove the lines. Thx
Will i be able to throw the new orings on the lines while its in the stock position?
Or do i need to remove the lines. Thx
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 11
From: DARTMOUTH MA
K i finally put everything back together.
New fuel pump, new orings all around. New hoses.
But i cant get the truck to start. I filled (3/4) the fuel bowl with fuel before i tried to start it.
Any ideas?
After i tried to start it i looked inside the fuel bowl and fuel over flowed the bowl a bit.
Any help would be great. Thx
New fuel pump, new orings all around. New hoses.
But i cant get the truck to start. I filled (3/4) the fuel bowl with fuel before i tried to start it.
Any ideas?
After i tried to start it i looked inside the fuel bowl and fuel over flowed the bowl a bit.
Any help would be great. Thx
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 11
From: DARTMOUTH MA
i assume i throw a gauge on the regulator and try to start it. What preasure should i be seeing while cranking?