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I have a 2004 super duty f250 with the 6.0 that the check engine light is on. My scan guage says it'a p6071. I think that's something with the glow plugs. Does anyone on here have any experience with this problem? I called the Ford dealership and they gave me an estimate of $1300 to fix. I think that would basically be new everything that has to do with the glow plugs. Thanks in advance for any and all advice. Peace
Just finished up replacing my # 1 glow plug, had the same P0671 code (I'm guessing you just typoed yours there). Anyway, total cost - $10 for glow plug, $45 for the harness, $10 for the tool.
Mines a 2006 and still had original glow plugs in, the plastic was so brittle that I broke 3 of the four and had to pull them out with screws and pics.
Took about and hour to pull the inner fender liner, soaked the harness plugs with penetrating oil (useless in my case) and let it set overnight. Took about three hours to coax those three harness plugs out, remove and replace the one glow plug, snap in the new harness. About two hours to put the fender liner back and reinstall the tire. Cleared the code, started it up, drove it here to the house and parked it.
In other words - no way would I give someone $1300 to do that job
I have a 2004 super duty f250 with the 6.0 that the check engine light is on. My scan guage says it'a p6071. I think that's something with the glow plugs. Does anyone on here have any experience with this problem? I called the Ford dealership and they gave me an estimate of $1300 to fix. I think that would basically be new everything that has to do with the glow plugs. Thanks in advance for any and all advice. Peace
Sounds to me like they are quoting a new controller, looms, and 8 glow plugs. No need to do that for just one......that is crazy high.
You don't even need to take the liner out if you don't want to, it does make it easier but takes longer.
Mines a 2006 and still had original glow plugs in, the plastic was so brittle that I broke 3 of the four and had to pull them out with screws and pics. Took about and hour to pull the inner fender liner, soaked the harness plugs with penetrating oil (useless in my case) and let it set overnight. About two hours to put the fender liner back and reinstall the tire.
Sorry to get off topic, but if you don't mind me asking, why did you go through all that trouble to replace only ONE glow plug? At $10 each plug, it would have been more than worthwhile to do the other three on that bank don't you think?
I'm all in favor of only replacing the bad one. How do I tell which one is bad?
The code you have is pretty much a dead giveaway since it's a code for #1
And as mchan eludes to, if you are going through the trouble of doing one it's worth it to just do the others, since the odds are you will end up trashing the harness..............but it's your truck!
Thanks to all of you for the advice. I'll contact my local mechanic and see what he has to say. (not the dealership) The other question I have, the brand new batteries seem to be weak. I know from experience that one can get a bad brand new battery. Is there any chance that weak batteries could be causing my glow plug issue?
I've never heard of batteries causing glow plug codes to set. I'm with the others, if you're going to replace one, your best to replace all on that side since you'll likely end up damaging the harness in the process and have to replace that as well. Best to replace the harness once vice up to four times. My experience has been that once one goes bad the others aren't far behind. Nursed one for about a year and then two more went bad.
At $10 a piece, do all of them. Firstly you'll likely break a connector trying to remove the bus and have to buy a $50 harness for each plug that fails. Secondly the cost of a tip breaking off and scoring a cylinder can be $5,000 for a longblock versus $10 for a glow plug. Very cheap insurance to do each bank all at once.
I second what everyone said about replacing the glow plugs in an entire bank for all the reasons mentioned.
I would also say unless you done this before do yourself a favor and remove the wheel well. Takes longer but is much easier this way or at least it was for me. I’m not nearly as skilled as DieselTech Ron or M-Chan are though. Plus, it will give you a chance to do some rust proofing if live in an area to worry about such things.
In my experience, wheelwell removal is suggested only for the passenger side bank of cylinders, mainly to facilitate access to cylinders #5 and #7, the two that are up against the evaporator housing where access to removal and replacement is very tight. Cylinders #2, #4, #6 and #8 aren't too bad to access from the engine compartment once the entire air cleaner assembly is removed. In answer the question regarding how to test the glow plugs, 0.5 to 2.0 ohms is the "good" range readings. Higher than that, warrants replacement. As far as those glow plug harnesses go, I use the "smash and replace" mindset with those, especially when accessing them on E-Series applications. Even using the correct puller tool for them usually results in breaking the connectors, unless it's been removed very recently.
For more information, read posts #7, #12 and #14 of this thread: