2005 6.0 barely tries to turn over, then nothing. No Start.
#1
11-22-2017, 03:09 AM
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smyrna, GA
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2005 6.0 barely tries to turn over, then nothing. No Start.
PLEASE READ FIRST: Late 2005 6.0L, 261xxx miles, EGR Delete, Blue Spring, Coolant Filtration, AFE stage 2 intake, gaskets and studs (ARP.... duh) done about 50k miles ago, SCT Livewire TS+, both fuel filters changed 4k miles ago, CAT ELC coolant, Rotella T6 changed every 5k w/ motorcraft filter. I'll admit, I have run the Looney Wild PCT tune by vivian at quicktricks as well as the Eco City tune also by vivian but I don't like seeing my boost gauge getting over 20-25 PSI so I mostly run it stock.
Fairly new to the forum, and mostly a novice when it comes to working on these trucks. Yesterday, I pulled the EGR Valve not clogged or gunked but not squeaky clean either, removed seals, cleaned it, and replaced it with new seals. Also added a bit of coolant as I was a tad low (I've had slight puking all over the cooling system but no major coolant dumps). Yes, I'm aware that this could be a major issue but I'm not here about the coolant puking... unless it's related? Replaced DEGAS bottle cap w/ new one. Also added the upgraded brass fuel/water drain plug. Pulled the air box and the up-pipe from lower driverside CAC tube that feeds into the.... EGR bypass pipe thing?.... the Tube that feeds into the elbow just behind the fan shroud. Very small amount of oily residue but otherwise very clean.
Started her up, and noticed a decent puff of white smoke from tailpipe. This is fairly typical during winter but as I let it warm up, I noticed the white smoke continued. A very small amount... you'd have to be looking really hard to notice it but still enough to make me start worrying. Increase in white smoke as I backed up the driveway but completely went away by the time I got out of the neighborhood. Drove 100 miles, stopped for fuel and shut her down. Went to start back up and it just barely halfway turned over and (with key still in crank position) just did absolutely nothing. Turned key off, tried it again, and fired up like usual. But again with the white smoke.... Drove another 100 miles, stopped again, came out to start it back up, and loooooong crank..... no start. Turned key off, tried it again, cranked up fine. But there's that smoke again. Drove it the final 250 miles of my journey, all temps were where they should be, no issues whatsoever. Shut her down for the night, went to crank her up 8 hours later and I get that strange barely halfway turn over (tries to turn over for barely even one second... if that) then nothing even with key still in crank position. Tried this 3-4 more times with the same result. Gave up, went back in the house, died a little inside, and now here we are. Batteries are good. FICM Voltage is always between 48.5 and 50. ICP Duty Cycle is always between 0.23 and 0.25 at idle and holds steady. I'm not entirely sure I was able to properly reconnect the water in fuel sensor but that wouldn't cause a no-start. Air intake and EGR Valve sensors were both cleaned with electrical cleaner before being plugged back in. I did forget to disconnect neg battery terminals but if that were the cause, I would've had the issue on first startup, not 500 miles later.
DTC:
Cyl. 8 Glow Plug Circuit Open (been throwing this one for over a year, never any starting issues)
Air Intake Circuit Open (Or something to that effect)
Something along the lines of EGR something something.... I can get the actual codes for y'all if needed.
My question is, could I have shifted a wire or sensor while under the hood that would tell the engine not to turn over? Did I royally screw something up? Is this as simple as a blown fuse or loose ground? Or should I drive it into the Gulf and report it stolen? Thanks in advance for the help!
Fairly new to the forum, and mostly a novice when it comes to working on these trucks. Yesterday, I pulled the EGR Valve not clogged or gunked but not squeaky clean either, removed seals, cleaned it, and replaced it with new seals. Also added a bit of coolant as I was a tad low (I've had slight puking all over the cooling system but no major coolant dumps). Yes, I'm aware that this could be a major issue but I'm not here about the coolant puking... unless it's related? Replaced DEGAS bottle cap w/ new one. Also added the upgraded brass fuel/water drain plug. Pulled the air box and the up-pipe from lower driverside CAC tube that feeds into the.... EGR bypass pipe thing?.... the Tube that feeds into the elbow just behind the fan shroud. Very small amount of oily residue but otherwise very clean.
Started her up, and noticed a decent puff of white smoke from tailpipe. This is fairly typical during winter but as I let it warm up, I noticed the white smoke continued. A very small amount... you'd have to be looking really hard to notice it but still enough to make me start worrying. Increase in white smoke as I backed up the driveway but completely went away by the time I got out of the neighborhood. Drove 100 miles, stopped for fuel and shut her down. Went to start back up and it just barely halfway turned over and (with key still in crank position) just did absolutely nothing. Turned key off, tried it again, and fired up like usual. But again with the white smoke.... Drove another 100 miles, stopped again, came out to start it back up, and loooooong crank..... no start. Turned key off, tried it again, cranked up fine. But there's that smoke again. Drove it the final 250 miles of my journey, all temps were where they should be, no issues whatsoever. Shut her down for the night, went to crank her up 8 hours later and I get that strange barely halfway turn over (tries to turn over for barely even one second... if that) then nothing even with key still in crank position. Tried this 3-4 more times with the same result. Gave up, went back in the house, died a little inside, and now here we are. Batteries are good. FICM Voltage is always between 48.5 and 50. ICP Duty Cycle is always between 0.23 and 0.25 at idle and holds steady. I'm not entirely sure I was able to properly reconnect the water in fuel sensor but that wouldn't cause a no-start. Air intake and EGR Valve sensors were both cleaned with electrical cleaner before being plugged back in. I did forget to disconnect neg battery terminals but if that were the cause, I would've had the issue on first startup, not 500 miles later.
DTC:
Cyl. 8 Glow Plug Circuit Open (been throwing this one for over a year, never any starting issues)
Air Intake Circuit Open (Or something to that effect)
Something along the lines of EGR something something.... I can get the actual codes for y'all if needed.
My question is, could I have shifted a wire or sensor while under the hood that would tell the engine not to turn over? Did I royally screw something up? Is this as simple as a blown fuse or loose ground? Or should I drive it into the Gulf and report it stolen? Thanks in advance for the help!
#2
11-22-2017, 04:31 AM
Postmaster
PLEASE READ FIRST: Late 2005 6.0L, 261xxx miles, EGR Delete, Blue Spring, Coolant Filtration, AFE stage 2 intake, gaskets and studs (ARP.... duh) done about 50k miles ago, SCT Livewire TS+, both fuel filters changed 4k miles ago, CAT ELC coolant, Rotella T6 changed every 5k w/ motorcraft filter. I'll admit, I have run the Looney Wild PCT tune by vivian at quicktricks as well as the Eco City tune also by vivian but I don't like seeing my boost gauge getting over 20-25 PSI so I mostly run it stock.
Fairly new to the forum, and mostly a novice when it comes to working on these trucks. Yesterday, I pulled the EGR Valve not clogged or gunked but not squeaky clean either, removed seals, cleaned it, and replaced it with new seals. Also added a bit of coolant as I was a tad low (I've had slight puking all over the cooling system but no major coolant dumps). Yes, I'm aware that this could be a major issue but I'm not here about the coolant puking... unless it's related? Replaced DEGAS bottle cap w/ new one. Also added the upgraded brass fuel/water drain plug. Pulled the air box and the up-pipe from lower driverside CAC tube that feeds into the.... EGR bypass pipe thing?.... the Tube that feeds into the elbow just behind the fan shroud. Very small amount of oily residue but otherwise very clean.
Started her up, and noticed a decent puff of white smoke from tailpipe. This is fairly typical during winter but as I let it warm up, I noticed the white smoke continued. A very small amount... you'd have to be looking really hard to notice it but still enough to make me start worrying. Increase in white smoke as I backed up the driveway but completely went away by the time I got out of the neighborhood. Drove 100 miles, stopped for fuel and shut her down. Went to start back up and it just barely halfway turned over and (with key still in crank position) just did absolutely nothing. Turned key off, tried it again, and fired up like usual. But again with the white smoke.... Drove another 100 miles, stopped again, came out to start it back up, and loooooong crank..... no start. Turned key off, tried it again, cranked up fine. But there's that smoke again. Drove it the final 250 miles of my journey, all temps were where they should be, no issues whatsoever. Shut her down for the night, went to crank her up 8 hours later and I get that strange barely halfway turn over (tries to turn over for barely even one second... if that) then nothing even with key still in crank position. Tried this 3-4 more times with the same result. Gave up, went back in the house, died a little inside, and now here we are. Batteries are good. FICM Voltage is always between 48.5 and 50. ICP Duty Cycle is always between 0.23 and 0.25 at idle and holds steady. I'm not entirely sure I was able to properly reconnect the water in fuel sensor but that wouldn't cause a no-start. Air intake and EGR Valve sensors were both cleaned with electrical cleaner before being plugged back in. I did forget to disconnect neg battery terminals but if that were the cause, I would've had the issue on first startup, not 500 miles later.
DTC:
Cyl. 8 Glow Plug Circuit Open (been throwing this one for over a year, never any starting issues)
Air Intake Circuit Open (Or something to that effect)
Something along the lines of EGR something something.... I can get the actual codes for y'all if needed.
My question is, could I have shifted a wire or sensor while under the hood that would tell the engine not to turn over? Did I royally screw something up? Is this as simple as a blown fuse or loose ground? Or should I drive it into the Gulf and report it stolen? Thanks in advance for the help!
Fairly new to the forum, and mostly a novice when it comes to working on these trucks. Yesterday, I pulled the EGR Valve not clogged or gunked but not squeaky clean either, removed seals, cleaned it, and replaced it with new seals. Also added a bit of coolant as I was a tad low (I've had slight puking all over the cooling system but no major coolant dumps). Yes, I'm aware that this could be a major issue but I'm not here about the coolant puking... unless it's related? Replaced DEGAS bottle cap w/ new one. Also added the upgraded brass fuel/water drain plug. Pulled the air box and the up-pipe from lower driverside CAC tube that feeds into the.... EGR bypass pipe thing?.... the Tube that feeds into the elbow just behind the fan shroud. Very small amount of oily residue but otherwise very clean.
Started her up, and noticed a decent puff of white smoke from tailpipe. This is fairly typical during winter but as I let it warm up, I noticed the white smoke continued. A very small amount... you'd have to be looking really hard to notice it but still enough to make me start worrying. Increase in white smoke as I backed up the driveway but completely went away by the time I got out of the neighborhood. Drove 100 miles, stopped for fuel and shut her down. Went to start back up and it just barely halfway turned over and (with key still in crank position) just did absolutely nothing. Turned key off, tried it again, and fired up like usual. But again with the white smoke.... Drove another 100 miles, stopped again, came out to start it back up, and loooooong crank..... no start. Turned key off, tried it again, cranked up fine. But there's that smoke again. Drove it the final 250 miles of my journey, all temps were where they should be, no issues whatsoever. Shut her down for the night, went to crank her up 8 hours later and I get that strange barely halfway turn over (tries to turn over for barely even one second... if that) then nothing even with key still in crank position. Tried this 3-4 more times with the same result. Gave up, went back in the house, died a little inside, and now here we are. Batteries are good. FICM Voltage is always between 48.5 and 50. ICP Duty Cycle is always between 0.23 and 0.25 at idle and holds steady. I'm not entirely sure I was able to properly reconnect the water in fuel sensor but that wouldn't cause a no-start. Air intake and EGR Valve sensors were both cleaned with electrical cleaner before being plugged back in. I did forget to disconnect neg battery terminals but if that were the cause, I would've had the issue on first startup, not 500 miles later.
DTC:
Cyl. 8 Glow Plug Circuit Open (been throwing this one for over a year, never any starting issues)
Air Intake Circuit Open (Or something to that effect)
Something along the lines of EGR something something.... I can get the actual codes for y'all if needed.
My question is, could I have shifted a wire or sensor while under the hood that would tell the engine not to turn over? Did I royally screw something up? Is this as simple as a blown fuse or loose ground? Or should I drive it into the Gulf and report it stolen? Thanks in advance for the help!
#3
11-22-2017, 06:19 AM
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smyrna, GA
Posts: 10
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With the white smoke and not wanting to turn over I'm going to guess its hydrolocking from either coolant or fuel. Did you happen to notice if the smoke smelled like coolant or fuel? If it partially turns over and stops dead after smoking like that don't keep trying to start it or you can bend a connecting rod if it is hydrolocking. If it is hydrolocked you need to remove the glow plugs before cranking the engine over making note of which cylinder has the fluid in it as you probably have an injector hanging open. When you crank the engine over make sure you do not use the key to do this as you do not want the fuel pump to come on or the FICM to try admitting fuel, use the jumper wire on the passenger side fender to crank it over. How is the EGR deleted? If the EGR cooler has been completely removed then the EGR valve should really never get gunked up.
Bad news is, I’m on vacation. Also, I’m not exactly a pro under the hood. Even if I had the time and know-how to dig deep enough into the motor to get to the glow plugs and injectors, I doubt I have all the necessary tools required. If it takes more than a 120 piece ratchet/socket set, I’m SOL.
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