1963 f100 rear lowering question
#1
1963 f100 rear lowering question
Hello!
This is my first post on this forum. I am new to the world of old trucks. Mainly have messed around with old motorcycles, but found a 63 f100 short box, and picked it up a month or so ago. It is "mid project," status. Meaning the previous owner had started various things about it, and I am hoping to educate myself and finish it. First question that I have, is the front end was lowered, as well as the rear via leaf springs. I was wanting to lower the rear end just another inch or two to level everything out. I have read and viewed widows on installing lowering shackles. That seems to be the simplest approach for that last inch or two. My problem is that I can't seem to find anything for a 1963. I can only find for a 1965 and newer. Does anyone know where I could find such a shackle? Or would one for a 1965 possibly fit?
Thank you in advance for your help and suggestions,
-Jacob
This is my first post on this forum. I am new to the world of old trucks. Mainly have messed around with old motorcycles, but found a 63 f100 short box, and picked it up a month or so ago. It is "mid project," status. Meaning the previous owner had started various things about it, and I am hoping to educate myself and finish it. First question that I have, is the front end was lowered, as well as the rear via leaf springs. I was wanting to lower the rear end just another inch or two to level everything out. I have read and viewed widows on installing lowering shackles. That seems to be the simplest approach for that last inch or two. My problem is that I can't seem to find anything for a 1963. I can only find for a 1965 and newer. Does anyone know where I could find such a shackle? Or would one for a 1965 possibly fit?
Thank you in advance for your help and suggestions,
-Jacob
#3
If it is already a coupe inches lower, then you cannot go any lower correctly without a lot more expense. The reason is that there will not be enough clearance between the frame for suspension travel.
Even only a few inches lower, where it probably is now, requires shock mounting points to be revised. The reason for that is as you lower it, the shock moves from a vertical to a more horizontal position, reducing it's effectiveness significantly. The lower you go, the worse this gets.
Even only a few inches lower, where it probably is now, requires shock mounting points to be revised. The reason for that is as you lower it, the shock moves from a vertical to a more horizontal position, reducing it's effectiveness significantly. The lower you go, the worse this gets.
#4
If it is already a coupe inches lower, then you cannot go any lower correctly without a lot more expense. The reason is that there will not be enough clearance between the frame for suspension travel.
Even only a few inches lower, where it probably is now, requires shock mounting points to be revised. The reason for that is as you lower it, the shock moves from a vertical to a more horizontal position, reducing it's effectiveness significantly. The lower you go, the worse this gets.
Even only a few inches lower, where it probably is now, requires shock mounting points to be revised. The reason for that is as you lower it, the shock moves from a vertical to a more horizontal position, reducing it's effectiveness significantly. The lower you go, the worse this gets.
#7
I need to clarify what I said about the shocks. I'm talking about the rear shocks when I say that the mounting points need to be revised. Front should be ok though a shorter shock may be a good idea there - that depends on how the shock works internally, which I don't know about. There should be no threat of bottoming out a stock front shock since maximum compression will remain the same, at least until the point at which you are notching the frame to get really low.
I'm using Gabriel Ultra G63187 up front which is about 1 3/4" shorter than the stock shock. The truck is 2 1/2" to 3" lower all around. My axle housing is not stock, so the shocks I'm using there will not help you much.
Most shock manufacturers have the specs for the shocks in their catalog so with some due diligence, you can measure and make sure you get a shock which extends and compresses enough and has the right ends, for whatever setup you run. Ideally, you want to pick a shock from a similar vehicle.
I'm using Gabriel Ultra G63187 up front which is about 1 3/4" shorter than the stock shock. The truck is 2 1/2" to 3" lower all around. My axle housing is not stock, so the shocks I'm using there will not help you much.
Most shock manufacturers have the specs for the shocks in their catalog so with some due diligence, you can measure and make sure you get a shock which extends and compresses enough and has the right ends, for whatever setup you run. Ideally, you want to pick a shock from a similar vehicle.
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#8
I need to clarify what I said about the shocks. I'm talking about the rear shocks when I say that the mounting points need to be revised. Front should be ok though a shorter shock may be a good idea there - that depends on how the shock works internally, which I don't know about. There should be no threat of bottoming out a stock front shock since maximum compression will remain the same, at least until the point at which you are notching the frame to get really low.
I'm using Gabriel Ultra G63187 up front which is about 1 3/4" shorter than the stock shock. The truck is 2 1/2" to 3" lower all around. My axle housing is not stock, so the shocks I'm using there will not help you much.
Most shock manufacturers have the specs for the shocks in their catalog so with some due diligence, you can measure and make sure you get a shock which extends and compresses enough and has the right ends, for whatever setup you run. Ideally, you want to pick a shock from a similar vehicle.
I'm using Gabriel Ultra G63187 up front which is about 1 3/4" shorter than the stock shock. The truck is 2 1/2" to 3" lower all around. My axle housing is not stock, so the shocks I'm using there will not help you much.
Most shock manufacturers have the specs for the shocks in their catalog so with some due diligence, you can measure and make sure you get a shock which extends and compresses enough and has the right ends, for whatever setup you run. Ideally, you want to pick a shock from a similar vehicle.
Thank you again for all of the info!
-Jacob
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