Need part # help please
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From: The Forest
Need part # help please
Does anyone know the Ford OEM part # for a front rotor/hub for a 1978 f250 4x4 Dana 44 axle? Can't seem to find it. Is it E1TZ-1102-D? Or will that work? Thanks!
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Ford is in-famous for replacing/updating 10's of 1000's of part numbers every
year! This was a PITA back then and still is today! 
There are two possible hub & rotor assy's for the OP's 1978 F250 4WD w/Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity:
D6TZ-1102-E or E1TZ-1102-B (replaced D7TZ-1102-A & E0TZ-1102-G).
Differences: Without free running hubs (E1TZ-1102-B), or with free running hubs (D6TZ-1102-E).
However, I couldn't find any 1976/79 F250 4WD rotor being replaced by E1TZ-1102-D .. whether it's a Dana 44 or a Dana 60.
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From: The Forest
You cannot go by a part numbers prefix to ID what the part fits, because...
Ford is in-famous for replacing/updating 10's of 1000's of part numbers every year! This was a PITA back then and still is today!
There are two possible hub & rotor assy's for the OP's 1978 F250 4WD w/Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity:
D6TZ-1102-E or E1TZ-1102-B (replaced D7TZ-1102-A & E0TZ-1102-G).
Differences: Without free running hubs (E1TZ-1102-B), or with free running hubs (D6TZ-1102-E).
However, I couldn't find any 1976/79 F250 4WD rotor being replaced by E1TZ-1102-D .. whether it's a Dana 44 or a Dana 60.
Ford is in-famous for replacing/updating 10's of 1000's of part numbers every
year! This was a PITA back then and still is today! There are two possible hub & rotor assy's for the OP's 1978 F250 4WD w/Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity:
D6TZ-1102-E or E1TZ-1102-B (replaced D7TZ-1102-A & E0TZ-1102-G).
Differences: Without free running hubs (E1TZ-1102-B), or with free running hubs (D6TZ-1102-E).
However, I couldn't find any 1976/79 F250 4WD rotor being replaced by E1TZ-1102-D .. whether it's a Dana 44 or a Dana 60.
thank you!!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Where do you plan on buying whatever rotor you need? Don't bother going to a Ford dealer, because both are obsolete.
I found (1) D6TZ-1102-E (at a Ford dealer in KS) & (45) E1TZ-1102-B NOS. Most of these are located at obsolete parts vendors.
The closest source to MS for E1TZ-1102-B = CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 39 = 800-476-9653.
Try an auto parts store, should be cheaper than NOS
I found (1) D6TZ-1102-E (at a Ford dealer in KS) & (45) E1TZ-1102-B NOS. Most of these are located at obsolete parts vendors.
The closest source to MS for E1TZ-1102-B = CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 39 = 800-476-9653.
Try an auto parts store, should be cheaper than NOS
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From: The Forest
ebay/online somewhere... I have warn manual locking hubs part #20990... which part # hub/rotor do I need or will either work? Thanks again
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I gave you all this info in post #3. The only part numbers I can give are Ford related.
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
You do know that the lug bolts (actually there are splines on the area just before the head) are what holds the hub and the rotor together? And you have to knock out the lug bolts to separate the hub and rotor.
Oreilly's part # 6084RGS $43.99 for a (1978 F250 4WD w/Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity)
Oreilly's part # 6084RGS $43.99 for a (1978 F250 4WD w/Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity)
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From: The Forest
Are free running hubs manual locking hubs? I'm sorry I'm confused by the terminology? And if not free running hubs then that means automatic locking hubs? Just confused... I have warn manual locking hubs on there now which replaced the stock/oem (spicer?) manual locking hubs.
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From: The Forest
You do know that the lug bolts (actually there are splines on the area just before the head) are what holds the hub and the rotor together? And you have to knock out the lug bolts to separate the hub and rotor.
Oreilly's part # 6084RGS $43.99 for a (1978 F250 4WD w/Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity)
Oreilly's part # 6084RGS $43.99 for a (1978 F250 4WD w/Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity)
thanks yeah I know I'm looking to buy together and I'm looking for oem
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Yes free running hubs are manual locking hubs. Unless you have full time 4wd and then you will have just a smooth disk where the lock in/out is.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_hubs
Oreilly's does NOT offer the hub and or can't order it. That is probably going to be a pricey part, what is wrong with yours? No worries ND will locate you some hubs, if they are on the planet.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_hubs
Oreilly's does NOT offer the hub and or can't order it. That is probably going to be a pricey part, what is wrong with yours? No worries ND will locate you some hubs, if they are on the planet.
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New User
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From: The Forest
Yes free running hubs are manual locking hubs. Unless you have full time 4wd and then you will have just a smooth disk where the lock in/out is.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_hubs
Oreilly's does NOT offer the hub and or can't order it. That is probably going to be a pricey part, what is wrong with yours? No worries ND will locate you some hubs, if they are on the planet.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_hubs
Oreilly's does NOT offer the hub and or can't order it. That is probably going to be a pricey part, what is wrong with yours? No worries ND will locate you some hubs, if they are on the planet.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: The Forest
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
12:00 and 6:00 play, insp ball joints. 9:00 and 3:00 insp tie rod ends. Excess 12/6 play and grinding...bearings and rotor toast if the rotor face shoes metal to metal contact IMO.
If you take it apart/insp the hub for blown races or bearings/wear past the races (highly unlikely) and just have to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings (which come with the races) and a rotor if needed. And of course aa new tap in inner side hub seal.
Put it back together and torque it properly with the 4 point socket or swap over to ratchet style lock nuts, I'd guess you should be ok.
As long as you did not burn up a bearing and mess up your spindle in the process.
If you take it apart/insp the hub for blown races or bearings/wear past the races (highly unlikely) and just have to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings (which come with the races) and a rotor if needed. And of course aa new tap in inner side hub seal.
Put it back together and torque it properly with the 4 point socket or swap over to ratchet style lock nuts, I'd guess you should be ok.
As long as you did not burn up a bearing and mess up your spindle in the process.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: The Forest
12:00 and 6:00 play, insp ball joints. 9:00 and 3:00 insp tie rod ends. Excess 12/6 play and grinding...bearings and rotor toast if the rotor face shoes metal to metal contact IMO.
If you take it apart/insp the hub for blown races or bearings/wear past the races (highly unlikely) and just have to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings (which come with the races) and a rotor if needed. And of course aa new tap in inner side hub seal.
Put it back together and torque it properly with the 4 point socket or swap over to ratchet style lock nuts, I'd guess you should be ok.
As long as you did not burn up a bearing and mess up your spindle in the process.
If you take it apart/insp the hub for blown races or bearings/wear past the races (highly unlikely) and just have to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings (which come with the races) and a rotor if needed. And of course aa new tap in inner side hub seal.
Put it back together and torque it properly with the 4 point socket or swap over to ratchet style lock nuts, I'd guess you should be ok.
As long as you did not burn up a bearing and mess up your spindle in the process.