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I think that's a 6:00 and 12:00 play-check as well, (18:00-00:00 if it's after mid-day) but of course if there's already play there from the toasted wheel bearing or whatever, then you need to bypass those loose tolerances, and try to input movement directly to the spindle/knuckle and feel and watch for any play at the ball joints. You could induce movement with a separate jack. Hopefully someone has some better ideas...
But honestly, if you're going as far as you already are, and the cost isn't an issue, then you might as well just replace the ball joints, and everything else you can access while in there.
When I pulled the locking hub the bearing nut was loose as well...
Maybe one or both of the wheel bearings came apart.
I'd to a temp tighten of both axle nuts and do the 6:00 pry bar trick on the wheel/tire assembly and see if the ball joints have a lot of play. It might just of been a real loose axle nut and that toasted your bearings and hopefully not your hub. Separate jack is a great idea MG92.
Then take it all apart, again hopefully both the old bearings come off easy. If the outer comes off and you can get the hub off and the inner bearing is frozen on, you can VERY CAREFULLY use a 4" grinder and a thin cut off wheel to cut the bearings assembly/inner race off the spindle. Insp the spindle, see how the new bearings dry fit/slip on the spindle shaft.
I'd to a temp tighten of both axle nuts and do the 6:00 pry bar trick on the wheel/tire assembly and see if the ball joints have a lot of play. It might just of been a real loose axle nut and that toasted your bearings and hopefully not your hub. Separate jack is a great idea MG92.
Then take it all apart, again hopefully both the old bearings come off easy. If the outer comes off and you can get the hub off and the inner bearing is frozen on, you can VERY CAREFULLY use a 4" grinder and a thin cut off wheel to cut the bearings assembly/inner race off the spindle. Insp the spindle, see how the new bearings dry fit/slip on the spindle shaft.
I'd use a press to get the new races in place.
thanks for all the help! I'm going to take it apart this weekend to see the extent of the damage... I'll check ball joint prices and test them too. I can get a NOS oem rotor hub with wheel studs for around $70 if it's the e1tz-1102-b part. Not sure what the difference with the rotors would be between the two part numbers.
I know when getting front rotors for my Dodge diesel the GVW matters due to thickness differences between the 2 options that there are.
Can you do a pictorial of the take apart of the lock in/out, axle nut-washer-nut, ect...pressure spring then the last piece to come out is the spring retaining ring. I am curious about its direction. Cup wall face in or out?
You do know that the lug bolts (actually there are splines on the area just before the head) are what holds the hub and the rotor together? And you have to knock out the lug bolts to separate the hub and rotor.
But, Ford did not sell the hub or rotor individually, were only available as an assembly.
The OP listed a part number in post #1 for a Ford truck Hub & Rotor Assy., But it was wrong for his application.
Post #3: I listed the two possible Hub & Rotor Assemblies for the OP's application.
I know when getting front rotors for my Dodge diesel the GVW matters due to thickness differences between the 2 options that there are.
Can you do a pictorial of the take apart of the lock in/out, axle nut-washer-nut, ect...pressure spring then the last piece to come out is the spring retaining ring. I am curious about its direction. Cup wall face in or out?
I can but is that for the stock manual hub? The truck has mile marker hubs and I'm changing them to the premium warn hubs #20990. I pulled the MM hub out last weekend and reinstalled it. That's when I noticed the loose bearing nut but I don't remember the last piece you describe.
Most ebay sellers haven't a single clue what parts fit, even if they are new in the box with a part number marked on it.
Seller shows the box with the part number: E1TZ-1102-B .. Clueless seller says 1981/83 E350 (1 ton Econoline), but this is BS! E1TZ-1102-B (replaced D7TZ-1102-A & E0TZ-1102-G) = 1977/79 F250 4WD Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity without free running hubs.
Most ebay sellers haven't a single clue what parts fit, even if they are new in the box with a part number marked on it.
Seller shows the box with the part number: E1TZ-1102-B .. Clueless seller says 1981/83 E350 (1 ton Econoline), but this is BS!
E1TZ-1102-B (replaced D7TZ-1102-A & E0TZ-1102-G) = 1977/79 F250 4WD Dana 44 w/3,800 lbs. capacity without free running hubs.
Same info in post #3.
got it but it still doesn't make sense that auto hubs vs manual hubs (both 4x4) would constitute different rotors! They are both 4x4 and either can be converted to manual or auto hubs vice versa right? Everything else is the same!
