Market Value help
#17
#20
#21
#22
I agree on the plywood bed.no p/s-no a/c .is that the color that you want to keep ?if you want to change the color that will cost you big bucks.how tall are you ? i am 6ft 2in and i had a 51 f1,i really loved the truck BUT it was a tight fit in the cab.sit in the truck and see if it fits you.take it out for a drive before you do anything else.it may drive like a dream or a nightmare.look under the truck,check it out.listen to these other guys they will never steer you wrong.it did not even have a lokar shifter.what ever you do DONT JUMP THE GUN.listen to these guys.
#23
You gotta love these new-fangled image programs. Can really tease out the details in photos.
Where do we begin.....?
In addition to what others have said, I see that this truck still has the original battery tray. And I'll bet you dimes to donuts that it has rot in the pan. They didn't bother to pay for a replica battery holder, but instead hacked in a cross-wise strap to hold the battery down. You can see the rear threaded rod near the firewall in the pic. If they gave a rat's sphincter about doing a decent resto., it would have a new tray and hold down. Price for a tray is about $80. Hold down is about another $18. These folks went extremely low budget.
Tailgate hinges are another thing "wrong". They look to be either welded on solid, or "mudded" in. Can't see any bolts.
The steering wheel looks very original. Cannot tell, but appears to have been epoxied up, and filed in. If it were new repro., it would be glossy as hell. I aught to know, as I sprang the $200 for a repro for my '49. Horn button has a chunk broken out. Original buttons were made of Bakelite, so this damage is consistent. Bakelite is very brittle. New buttons are plastic. Truck had a spot light at some point. The holes are clearly visible at the base of the "A" pillar. No attempt to plug them. Window vent latch appears to be broke, and some ad hoc rig has been installed to keep the vent closed.
And yes, the shift **** is an antique crystal door **** from some old house. Just like the ones in my 1935 bungalow/cottage.
I think I will check all my door ***** to see if any are missing.
Where do we begin.....?
In addition to what others have said, I see that this truck still has the original battery tray. And I'll bet you dimes to donuts that it has rot in the pan. They didn't bother to pay for a replica battery holder, but instead hacked in a cross-wise strap to hold the battery down. You can see the rear threaded rod near the firewall in the pic. If they gave a rat's sphincter about doing a decent resto., it would have a new tray and hold down. Price for a tray is about $80. Hold down is about another $18. These folks went extremely low budget.
Tailgate hinges are another thing "wrong". They look to be either welded on solid, or "mudded" in. Can't see any bolts.
The steering wheel looks very original. Cannot tell, but appears to have been epoxied up, and filed in. If it were new repro., it would be glossy as hell. I aught to know, as I sprang the $200 for a repro for my '49. Horn button has a chunk broken out. Original buttons were made of Bakelite, so this damage is consistent. Bakelite is very brittle. New buttons are plastic. Truck had a spot light at some point. The holes are clearly visible at the base of the "A" pillar. No attempt to plug them. Window vent latch appears to be broke, and some ad hoc rig has been installed to keep the vent closed.
And yes, the shift **** is an antique crystal door **** from some old house. Just like the ones in my 1935 bungalow/cottage.
I think I will check all my door ***** to see if any are missing.
#25
#26
That engine does not appear to be rebuilt-it appears to be direct from the junkyard-huge red flag. A chevy crate motor is what-a few thousand? If one is going to desecrate a Ford by dumping a chevy motor in it, the least they could do is install a rebuilt motor. Add that to all of the other red flags that have been pointed out and I believe this truck to be wayyyyyy overpriced. IMHO I would not touch that truck for any amount. OK, maybe $3,000.00 or $3,500.00, with the intent to tear it apart and redo it the right way.
#27
I think what you could have there is $30,000 worth of tuition in the school of hard knocks. From the pictures you can see a few shortcuts as the sharp eyed posters have pointed out. I would really like to see it up on a hoist. I think that is where you would get a feel for the skill level of the builder, quality of the welds on the front suspension, are things square, that sort of thing. The value is what someone is willing to pay, whether it is worth it or not.
B
B
#29
#30