No heat in the Excursion
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Joined: Oct 2016
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From: St Robert, MO
No heat in the Excursion
Looking for some help. I have no heat in my Excursion in the front or the rear. I've done some searching and a lot of people are saying bad thermostat, coolant not topped off, bad actuator behind the glove box, etc. The thermostat is brand new and functions as it's supposed to. The coolant level is good. The blend door actuator behind the glove box functions as it should. Another thing I've read is possibly a bad heater control valve on the heater hose. I don't want to just start throwing parts at it and hope for a fix. With the engine running at operating temp, heater turned on, the heater hose is not hot on either side of the heater control valve. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can check next?
Side note.... It's a '02 and has the electronic HVAC controls. It changes to selected vents when you push the buttons to change.
Side note.... It's a '02 and has the electronic HVAC controls. It changes to selected vents when you push the buttons to change.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Central Florida
Looking for some help. I have no heat in my Excursion in the front or the rear. I've done some searching and a lot of people are saying bad thermostat, coolant not topped off, bad actuator behind the glove box, etc. The thermostat is brand new and functions as it's supposed to. The coolant level is good. The blend door actuator behind the glove box functions as it should. Another thing I've read is possibly a bad heater control valve on the heater hose. I don't want to just start throwing parts at it and hope for a fix. With the engine running at operating temp, heater turned on, the heater hose is not hot on either side of the heater control valve. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can check next?
Side note.... It's a '02 and has the electronic HVAC controls. It changes to selected vents when you push the buttons to change.
Side note.... It's a '02 and has the electronic HVAC controls. It changes to selected vents when you push the buttons to change.
I would first move the valve manually to exercise it, then you can rule out it being stuck and if you have flow thru the lines.
If the heater core was plugged it would exhibit the same problems as its basically a radiator, however you have two, one front and rear so you should have flow when you manually operate the valve.
Beyond that and vacuum, probably going to be electric.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2016
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The valve that is inline with the heater cores is closed by vacuum. You could start the vehicle turn you heater to high and then disconnect the vacuum line to that valve and see if it is receiving vacuum when it shouldn't. I think the old guy from Florida is on the right track with a possible stuck valve, but could be receiving vacuum when it shouldn't.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2016
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How exactly did you rule out the valve? Did you pull it out of the hose and make sure it isn't partially blocked? Did you see if it had vacuum when it wasn't supposed to? There is a restriction/lack of flow and that is the common part to both front and rear heaters. They are fed from different spots but return to the engine through that valve.
I suppose your water pump could be shot and not pumping coolant through the hoses but if it is that bad I would think you would eventually get an overheat situation.
I suppose your water pump could be shot and not pumping coolant through the hoses but if it is that bad I would think you would eventually get an overheat situation.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,727
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From: Almost back in TX biotche
A buddy of mine had an issue with no heat in tue rear and it was the actuator. I believe there are 2 in the rear and one under the dash. The one under the dash could be your issue.
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From: St Robert, MO
How exactly did you rule out the valve? Did you pull it out of the hose and make sure it isn't partially blocked? Did you see if it had vacuum when it wasn't supposed to? There is a restriction/lack of flow and that is the common part to both front and rear heaters. They are fed from different spots but return to the engine through that valve.
I suppose your water pump could be shot and not pumping coolant through the hoses but if it is that bad I would think you would eventually get an overheat situation.
I suppose your water pump could be shot and not pumping coolant through the hoses but if it is that bad I would think you would eventually get an overheat situation.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: St Robert, MO
I pulled the line closest to the heater core. There is coolant pumping from the water pump, through the heater control valve.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 610
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From: NE Kansas
In my case the valve seems to be stuck "closed". Only when I set AC to MAX do I get vacuum. I blew compressed air "into" the valve and it "popped" a bit and water began to flow. It works for now. Not sure if this fixed it, or I will need to replace the valve.
At first I ran it and the hose on the inlet side of the valve was warm only near the engine. Near the valve it was not warm. Neither of the two outlet hoses were warm. Clearly the valve was closed.
At first I ran it and the hose on the inlet side of the valve was warm only near the engine. Near the valve it was not warm. Neither of the two outlet hoses were warm. Clearly the valve was closed.
Last edited by kevin.ford-trucks; Oct 13, 2018 at 06:16 PM. Reason: add more info
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You should only get vacuum when the controls are set to MAX (shuts off flow of hot water to the heater core.) So it looks like your control system is working as designed. Sounds like the valve was stuck closed. Hopefully we don't need MAX cooling for a few months.....