It's a good idea to get the gaskets if you're not planning on having the manifolds planed.

​​​​​​​I use Fel-Pro graphite gaskets on every 7.3 I have to do any work on. I've probably put on three dozen sets in the last 10 years and have never had an issue with them. The Crown Vic has one steel manifold gasket on it and it's got two thousand miles and doesn't have any issues. I guess I'll see how that works out. But to answer your question..... No, the 7.3 L does not come with gaskets from the factory.

 

There are none from the factory but I would use them if I was doing it.

 

Would you recommend the Felpro gaskets over the steel Ford ones I ordered?

 

The Fel-Pro (MS93489) set is always in stock at my local NAPA store and I like the fact that they allow the different parts to move around and they still use a stainless steel sealing ring around the ports. I would probably use the gaskets you ordered since you'll have them.

 

#1 Thank you Cleatus. I just don’t want to have to do them in the truck. So if wasting $25 and getting the Fel-pro gaskets is that much better of an option I will.

#2 Also I can gonna transfer my oil cooler from my old truck to the newer engine, I rebuilt it probably 2-3 years ago. I could find just the gaskets so I had to order the full kit. May would like a dumb question but should I rebuild it again or just swap it to the new engine and go?

#3 Anyone have a thread on installing the factory dipstick adapter properly? Will have the pan off but just want to make sure I do it right.

 

Alright well today was productive I think. Got back late from Pennsylvania yesterday. Had stuff to do in the am so I got started around 1:30. Had to get my dads truck back to him. So to do that I had to move the engine from my truck out of the middle of the floor. Then decided to strip down the junk block I had on the stand to make way for the new engine. I am gonna use the manifolds, engine mounts and rebuild the oil cooler off this engine due to it must have been a southern engine as it has line no rust on it at all. So pulled the HPOP, oil cooler, hpop reservoir, HPOP gear, fuel lines, oil pan, oil pickup tube, engine mounts, water pump off the parts engine. Tried to get off the crank pulley however I guess I don’t have the right puller. Reinstalled the heads and bolted them down for temporary lifting and removed it off the stand and added it to parts row. Then was able to get the new engine on the stand and started cleaning it up. Got the passenger side and front looking pretty good. Started cleaning the valley which will take a while. Have the top end sitting with oil dry in it to try and help soak some of the stuff up. Parts are supposed to get here Friday.

Couple questions:

#1 Oil pan currently on the engine appears to be in pretty good shape. It does have some light surface rust in areas. So do I leave it alone so I don’t have to worry about sealing a new pan? Or do I exchange it for one in better shape?

#2 Is there a gasket used for the oil pan or just a thick layer of RTV? Is there a specific RTV to use?

#3 What is the best method to get the gasket material from where the plenums were? Can you use brake cleaner and the green scotch pads? Didn’t have to clean this when I did the plenum son the old engine. They were so oil covered the gasket came right off.

Few pictures.

 

Whoa, think it out Seth.

Do this like it's a one time shot. Your questions reflect saving time or a dollar. If you don't get this right on the first shot...............your saving neither.



Denny

 

Use the fomoco sealant on A NEW PAN with an inverted engine. And a brass or alum wire on a mildly driven lightly handled pneumatic 90 and be light. After that get your finger nail files out.

You'll be fine.


Hat's off bro

 

A mew Dorman oil pan is only $70 give or take. Do it right the first time specially when sealing the plenums, oil pan and front timing cover, dont cheap out on the sealant or get stingy with it.

 

I am not trying to cut corners but also am on a limited budget at the moment. However I do have to be honest that I need this truck in 2 1/2 weeks. So I am doing the best I can with the cards I have at the moment. The one oil pan is in great shape. That’s why I asked if I should just reuse it. Do they warp? I will have to look into a new pan and see if I can swing it.

Thank you all for your help.

 

I wouldn't do a new pan, but definitely reseal the one you have.

 

Just my $.02...I don't fix what's not broke or replace what is good. That pan looked good to me and I'd just clean it up and get a coat of some good paint on it. Check but don't damage the oil tube nut on the pan and goop it up with that grey Ford RTV to prevent it from coming loose. I'd also paint that dip stick tube. For sealant I would suggest the Ford (I doubt that they make it) grey sealant that they use on the pan and it looks like they use that on the bolt cover for the HPOP gear up front, it's good adhesive stuff. I used Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) to remove that residual sealant when I did mine, it's available at Lowe's and it's nasty stuff, don't inhale it and ventilate your work area well. Scotch pads work well too. And Ford just seals the pan with that grey sealant and it is what I would use if you do remove the pan. Clean, clean, clean the surfaces and apply a bead to both the block and the pan.

 

When I swapped engines I left much as I could alone. I thought about a new pan but was afraid of not getting it right and it leaking afterwords. Hard to draw the line between what to do and what to leave alone.

I would replace the o-rings on the dipstick flange for sure.

 

 

I thought I read you had a rusted oil pan? If its in good shape by all means use it just paint it.