When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After traveling at high speed (120 kph) for 2 or 3 hours the check engine light comes on in my 95 4.0L AWD. Everything seems to perform fine but the light will stay on until the engine is shut off. If the engine does not cool down the light will come on after another 10 minutes or so of travelling. If the engine cools down (overnight) it will take another 2 hours of high speed travel for it to come back on. This only happens on long trips on interstate type highways where I would be cruising at higher speeds for extended periods. I'm open to suggestions.
OK, since you've got OBD I, you can pull the codes without a code reader. I would post a link to the procedure, but unfortunately the website that has the tech tips is having some sort of server problem, so I don't know which link to point to. But, you could go there in a while and sort through the tech tips and find it yourself. Just go to www.smpcorp.com, then follow the tech tip link. Go through the tech tips until you find the one that contains the procedure for pulling codes from Ford EEC-IV systems.
Oh boy - I can;t wait for the answer to this one! I recently (about 4 weeks ago) got a 1994 4.0 extended Aerostar, in nearly perfect condition with 120,000 miles. Since then I have put on almost 1000 miles.
This weekend I took it on my first long trip (more than half of the 1000 miles is city and local highways.) After a hour or so of 75 - 85 mph driving, the CEL came on and off a few times, and then stayed on for an hour, until I shut the engine at a rest stop. It did not come on again. My speed was about 73 mph for most of the trip, but at the moment it came on, I was doing 85.
Since it still worked perfectly, I was only slightly concerned, more like curious. I will read the codes, using the instructions I found on another post, the one Mikeman referred to, at:
I was apprehensive originally, having owned foreign cars before. My one past Ford experience, a 198- something Tempo, was terrible. But now that I tried it, I mostly love it. Unfortunately, with today's gas prices, the low MPG rate (16.8 for the all highway trip I just took!) is hard to afford. On the other hand, it's got room for everything I ever want to carry, and the A/C was so cold on the trip, that my kids needed blankets in the back (I like it cold, but it was on the lowest setting!)
Try driving a little slower to get that gas mileage up. I get about 22 mpg when I take backroads around here and 16-18 when I drive at my normal highway speed 80-90 mph. BTW, my Aerostar runs for hours at 90+ with no problem. It has 170K on it. It's time to replace the engine - I wonder why??
I am really stumped now. I plugged in a code reader, and it displayed '111' - Passed all Tests.
Basically - no errors. Now where did the error that made the Check Engine Light light up go?
As for the Speed - When you have 300 miles to travel, and a highway with a 65mph speed limit, and everyone moving at around 73, how can you bear to go 55? (It makes a difference of a lot of time!)
I am really stumped now. I plugged in a code reader, and it displayed '111' - Passed all Tests.
Basically - no errors. Now where did the error that made the Check Engine Light light up go?
Which test(s) did you run? KOEO, KOER, Engine Balance Test? If you only ran one we are not getting the full picture. Also after so many starts (I think like 20) the computer will erase the non hard fault codes.
Unfortunately, with today's gas prices, the low MPG rate (16.8 for the all highway trip I just took!)
I think the key to your problem is the low mileage for a highway trip. I would be willing to bet your oxygen sensor is about gone. The O2 sensor fails gradually causing the engine to run increasing richer as time goes on, thus the poorer than expected gas mileage. In addition to triggering a 'Check Engine' code, the overly rich mixture also causes to catalytic convertors to overheat and will eventually damage the inner honeycomb catalyst core. Pull the codes as Mikeman suggested and see if there is one for a 'rich right/left bank'. Alternately, you could just replace the O2 sensor if the engine has close to 100,000 miles on it, which is the usual life expectancy for an O2 sensor.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Jul 12, 2004 at 11:08 AM.
There is no convenient method to bench test them that I am aware of. They average around $45.00 for new ones. You could possibly scavenge one from a junkyard from a later model Ford that uses the same sensor. If you catch them on a good day, they may reference their interchange manual and tell you which models you could pull one from. Be forewarned, the sensor can very easy to remove or it can be rusted solid onto the fitting. They make a special socket wrench to assist in removal and installation. Most parts stores have these as "loaner" tools. Since most junkers sit on their axles, getting underneath to remove the O2 sensor could be a daunting and dangerous task.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Jul 12, 2004 at 02:21 PM.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.