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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 07:34 PM
  #1  
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Auto hub questions

I have a 2001 f250 4wd with the electronic 4x4 switch on dash.
As I was doing some maintenance (brake fluid flush, lube the brake slide ins, install new brake disc and lubricating the hubs thru the abs hole (great tool available !!)) I tried switching the manual hubs on.
With the manual hub dis-engaged I can spin the hub itself. The knuckle is not spinning. This is what I expected.
Then I engaged the manual hub on drivers side. When I spin the hub I see the knuckle spinning as well. Also what I expected.... BUT I don't see the driveshaft that runs from the front differential to the transfer case spin at all. Is this normal ? I though that the front driveshaft would spin as well when I engage the manual hub. ?

Also, on the inside of the hub (where the knuckle starts , from outside to inside) there is a plastic ring that doesn't seem connected to anything. Passenger side it seems to be connected but is a bit loose. Any idea ?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 07:41 PM
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From: Bozeman MT
Originally Posted by geekwithoutacause
I have a 2001 f250 4wd with the electronic 4x4 switch on dash.
As I was doing some maintenance (brake fluid flush, lube the brake slide ins, install new brake disc and lubricating the hubs thru the abs hole (great tool available !!)) I tried switching the manual hubs on.
With the manual hub dis-engaged I can spin the hub itself. The knuckle is not spinning. This is what I expected.
Then I engaged the manual hub on drivers side. When I spin the hub I see the knuckle spinning as well. Also what I expected.... BUT I don't see the driveshaft that runs from the front differential to the transfer case spin at all. Is this normal ? I though that the front driveshaft would spin as well when I engage the manual hub. ?

Also, on the inside of the hub (where the knuckle starts , from outside to inside) there is a plastic ring that doesn't seem connected to anything. Passenger side it seems to be connected but is a bit loose. Any idea ?
The OEM front differential is an open differential. The only way to see the connection is to lock the Hubs in place and then turn the driveline. By default of design and leverage, you will probably see the drivers side wheel turn when you are turning the driveline for normal forward direction. Then the passenger side wheel turn when you turn the driveline for normal reverse direction, after the diff flips leverage.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 07:44 PM
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Copper.Farm
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From: Bozeman MT
I lived in CO when I had my 2000 6.8.l, I had limited slips installed F and R and they paid for themselves on Mosquito Pass 13000+ feet near Leadville. Had a road break free that strande me, built a rock driveway on the path out and then had six people stand in the bed, worked.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 08:01 PM
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Thanks for the info. I will try that tomorrow. I guess it's ok.

What about that plastic ring hanging on the inside of the hub?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 08:03 PM
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From: Bozeman MT
Originally Posted by geekwithoutacause
Thanks for the info. I will try that tomorrow. I guess it's ok.

What about that plastic ring hanging on the inside of the hub?
That was a “dust seal” that was connected to the rotating axle and rubs against the spindle, until it degrades. Almost every truck has the “plastic ring” hanging there... nobody gets too concerned.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 08:12 PM
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Awesome ! Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 08:33 AM
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I would use caution "lubricating" the bearing thru the ABS hole...the hubs are sealed bearings with very tight clearance through the race. Adding too much grease/oil in these areas could easily cause a overpressure/overheat in the bearing sub assembly and cause it to fail prematurely. In the days of old bearings were separated from each other measured in fractions of an inch and thus could be "packed" with grease. The newer bearings (caged) have much tighter tolerances and as such only need a defined amount of grease/lubricant. I have been on accident investigations where it was found an over zealous maintainer over greased a bearing assembly and caused a tail rotor shaft bearing to overheat and part in-flight. Not a good outcome. Granted we are talking about trucks firmly planted on terra firma, but why risk a bearing failure?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TomTommy
I would use caution "lubricating" the bearing thru the ABS hole...the hubs are sealed bearings with very tight clearance through the race. Adding too much grease/oil in these areas could easily cause a overpressure/overheat in the bearing sub assembly and cause it to fail prematurely. In the days of old bearings were separated from each other measured in fractions of an inch and thus could be "packed" with grease. The newer bearings (caged) have much tighter tolerances and as such only need a defined amount of grease/lubricant. I have been on accident investigations where it was found an over zealous maintainer over greased a bearing assembly and caused a tail rotor shaft bearing to overheat and part in-flight. Not a good outcome. Granted we are talking about trucks firmly planted on terra firma, but why risk a bearing failure?
Doubt these are high tech bearings. Tons of other people have been greasing them this way. Either way, they would seize due to no grease if I don't grease them...

Discovered my balljoints are bad... ugh. upper/lower on the drivers side and upper on passenger side.
I think I will let someone else do this... How hard is it ?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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Well, you would be surprised at the bearings on a aircraft versus a truck. The main hub bearing on a H-60 looks like a old Mack truck bearing and makes the wheel bearing on the Super Duty look like it should be on the space shuttle.

As far as the ball joints. Not that difficult with the proper tools, patience, and a hammer...check this out: Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure - Superdutypsd.com
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 02:20 PM
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Lol. I believe it.
Let me check it out. Haven't decided yet if I should do it myself. Which balljoints are best? Moog?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 02:37 PM
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I don't have personal experience with the ball joints. But Moog seems to be popular and reputable...definitely stay away from the ebay chicom stuff though even if the price is nice. There is always Motorcraft....
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 03:02 PM
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That's an excellent write up. I might just attempt to do it myself. I do need some more tools for it.. But the truck is already up on stands, front brakes/discs removed since I'm waiting for new discs.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by geekwithoutacause
That's an excellent write up. I might just attempt to do it myself. I do need some more tools for it.. But the truck is already up on stands, front brakes/discs removed since I'm waiting for new discs.
Hard part is done...everything else is done sitting on a bucket
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 04:20 PM
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Be careful with Moog ball joints. They used to have to a great reputation, but not so much lately. I would do a search on it. It's not too hard of a job, but having all the right tools makes it a lot easier.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by andym
Be careful with Moog ball joints. They used to have to a great reputation, but not so much lately. I would do a search on it. It's not too hard of a job, but having all the right tools makes it a lot easier.
Yeah, that's kind of the impression I got researching it. Years back everyone raved about them but lately not so much. Just go motorcraft?
 
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