Frame paint
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: SW Washington State
Frame paint
Gentleman,
I am cleaning my frame for my 1953 F100. I have justed used a wire wheel and I am happy with the condition of the frame. This pictures shows the cleaned frame, and uncleaned front cross member (under the radiator ).
Now need to decide on what to use to paint the frame and front axle. This picture shows how well it cleaned up, but you can see there is some little spots of rust left.
I have been reading a lot about POR15 and Eastwood chassis paint.
I wanted to ask what your opinion would be..use POR 15 or clean the frame as much as possible and use the Eastwood primer and black chassis paint?
I am leaning towards the Eastwood chassis paint, but my concern the little rust I might miss will cause the paint to fail?
ANY opinions?? Thx for the help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 509
From: clinton,tn
When mine came back from being sand blasted I cleaned it and put two heavy coats of black paint used for painting equipment in a machine room. I had the paint left over for a job I done. It has set for years while saving money and has been touched up in a few places from being scratched but is still a durable lasting paint.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 422
From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
The frame and underbody were wire brushed. Like any paint, the cleaner, the better. The biggest thing is to have all loose material and road dirt removed. The metal doesn't need to be shiny just crud free. Two coats are best.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
Likes: 55
From: Moro Bay, AR
I've used the chassis paint from Eastwood and was satisfied with it, probably get paint cheaper from your local supplier though. Lately I have been using an implement paint from Atwoods (similar to Tractor Supply) and have been well satisfied when using it with hardener.
Trending Topics
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 831
Likes: 7
From: Milford, Michigan
On sandblasted pieces I have used Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black and it goes on good and looks very nice. On pieces I have just wire brushed, I used POR15 as it is a direct to metal paint and locks out any rust that the wire brushing will inevitably leave behind in any small pits or anywhere else. If you decide to use the POR15 paint, be aware that once the can is opened and some paint is removed (they tell you to never paint directly from the can as they want to minimize air getting to the paint), you need to use it all as soon as possible as it will harden up in the can. A few weeks is no problem but a few months and you will have problems. The Chassis Blacks from Eastwood don't have this issue but they may not lock out the rust like the POR15 will.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 422
From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
Doug brings up a great point on POR - don't paint from the can. Also, I've been able to successfully store an opened can by wiping the lid seal lip before closing. Also, flipping the closed can, so the lid is down, seems to help seal out the air.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
I use KBS Rust Seal which is similar to POR-15 but not as finicky with the prep/bond and it is available in a variety of colors and less expensive than other similar products. I usually spray it on flows out nicely and dries fast, but for small jobs I puncture a couple of holes in the can lid and just pour the paint onto the brush without removing the lid. Paint never hardens in the can this way. Best way to do this is to screw in two self-tapping screws into the lid. Just yesterday I was running wiring through the body and before inserting the rubber grommets I painted the exposed metal with KBS...all it took was to remove a screw from the lid, pour out a bit on a dauber, and replace the screw...easy peasy.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 806
Likes: 95
From: Madera Ranchos
I second what Charlie says. I did my frame with it and I brushed it on and if you use a good brush this stuff lays down real nice.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
I used eastwood chassis 2k on my frame and pretty happy with it but it was blasted clean. If not clean, I would just do the por15 which i have used on the inside of my cab where nice paint wont be. One thing I did with the por15 if you are not gonna use the whole can is I put 2 screws in the lid, took them out and poured what I needed and then put screws back in holes, put in ziploc and in my extra fridge. It has kept for months this way.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,733
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
As stated before metal prep is important. If you sand blast POR 15 needs no prep but cleaning like you are I’d suggest using their cleaning and etching products before using POR 15. Also if you will have your frame exposed to UV rays (aka Sunlight) you’ll need to topcoat it. You can prime it while tacky or if it’s dry use their topcoat. Something I found out the hard way is don’t drip sweat on it prior to it curing.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: SW Washington State
Thank you everyone for the replies..
I will look at the KRS products...if I decide to go with POR15, I did plan on using the pre-step to clean it and or etch, reading the instructions. But what about a top coat?? My truck will have a stock look after finished, but I don't think I can guarantee it will not see sunlight.
What has others done when using POR15 on a frame and axle...top coat or not??
The only thing that worries me about POR15, in cleaning it, most of the rust off, will to stop it from bonding to the metal.
I will look at the KRS products...if I decide to go with POR15, I did plan on using the pre-step to clean it and or etch, reading the instructions. But what about a top coat?? My truck will have a stock look after finished, but I don't think I can guarantee it will not see sunlight.
What has others done when using POR15 on a frame and axle...top coat or not??
The only thing that worries me about POR15, in cleaning it, most of the rust off, will to stop it from bonding to the metal.