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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Brake Pedal Switch

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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 09:32 PM
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Brake Pedal Switch

Which of these is the correct switch for my 69' with manual drum brakes?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 09:36 PM
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The bottom one is like the switch in my '69 F100.

 
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
The bottom one is like the switch in my '69 F100.
Thanks a bunch Steve. Have you ever installed the bushing for master cylinder arm?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by pchelp
Thanks a bunch Steve. Have you ever installed the bushing for master cylinder arm?
There's one in the eyelet of the booster input rod on my truck. You just can't see it in my previous photo because the brake pedal is blocking the view of it from this side.

 
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
There's one in the eyelet of the booster input rod on my truck. You just can't see it in my previous photo because the brake pedal is blocking the view of it from this side.
Thanks Steve, just ordered it. Kept chasing down why the brake lights stayed on, looks like the PO either left it off or it fell off. His fix was to add a SPRING to the pedal to pull it back against the brake switch
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 05:06 AM
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Just replaced the BLS on my '69, too

Originally Posted by pchelp
Thanks Steve, just ordered it. Kept chasing down why the brake lights stayed on, looks like the PO either left it off or it fell off. His fix was to add a SPRING to the pedal to pull it back against the brake switch
The chinese crap replacement switches are of inconsistent quality and sometimes don't last long. Check the brake lights when you exit the truck even after the replacement.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by farmallmta
The chinese crap replacement switches are of inconsistent quality and sometimes don't last long. Check the brake lights when you exit the truck even after the replacement.
That's what caught my eye, I noticed the reflection on the wall in the garage and thought "that's weird". When I went to adjust the switch I noticed the pedal actually wobbled just enough to relieve the tension on the switch. I am hoping that after I replace the nylon bushing things tighten back up. If that doesn't work I was thinking of getting an adjustable master cylinder push rod.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pchelp
Which of these is the correct switch for my '69 with manual drum brakes?
The upper switch is 1967 only.

The lower switch is 1968/77 (manual or power brakes makes no difference) and threads into a retainer (13A629 in pic) that clips onto the brake pedal.

The retainer clips to the pedal with prongs. Some/all of the prongs break off, the retainer then either hangs from the pedal or falls off of it.

Pic: See 13A829 retainer and 13480 switch at lower left. 2A309 is the nylon bushing for the push rod.

 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
The upper switch is 1967 only.

The lower switch is 1968/77 (manual or power brakes makes no difference) and threads into a retainer (13A629 in pic) that clips onto the brake pedal.

The retainer clips to the pedal with prongs. Some/all of the prongs break off, the retainer then either hangs from the pedal or falls off of it.

Pic: See 13A829 retainer and 13480 switch at lower left. 2A309 is the nylon bushing for the push rod.
Thanks Number, so the OEM looked like this?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pchelp
Thanks Number, so the OEM looked like this?


Check to make sure that the prongs of the retainer are still clipped to the pedal (it appears that it isn't).

If it's not, the switch cannot be adjusted.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Why buy an aftermarket made in china POS? Buy a Genuine Ford switch at your local Dealer.
68/72 F100/350 part number D2TZ13480B. Replaced by F6HZ13480EA. Still available from Ford.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Why buy an aftermarket made in china POS? Buy a Genuine Ford switch at your local Dealer.
68/72 F100/350 part number D2TZ13480B. Replaced by F6HZ13480EA. Still available from Ford.
Would there be any difference with this plastic switch? I already found that these cheap metal nuts don't tighten worth crap
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy


Check to make sure that the prongs of the retainer are still clipped to the pedal (it appears that it isn't).

If it's not, the switch cannot be adjusted.
Hey Number, any leads on this rubber seal for the column cover?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pchelp
Would there be any difference with this plastic switch? I already found that these cheap metal nuts don't tighten worth crap.
Where do these nuts go? As original - NOWHERE!

The switch threads into the retainer. If the retainer breaks (common) and people don't know where to get a replacement, they use nuts instead.

In Steve's pic (post #2), you can see the nuts, but they were not there originally (see parts catalog pic in post #8).

C8TZ-13A629-A
.. Brake Lamp Switch Retainer / Reproduced ~ Also available NOS
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 01:18 PM
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I had the same problem with the lights staying on. New switch doid not help.I cobbed in a spring that hooks to the dash. I think the root problem is wear on the pedal boss. Maybe some lube would help.

I am thinking about a pressure switch at the master cylinder. Anybody have any advice on theat?
 
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