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I had the same problem with the lights staying on. New switch doid not help.I cobbed in a spring that hooks to the dash. I think the root problem is wear on the pedal boss. Maybe some lube would help.
I am thinking about a pressure switch at the master cylinder. Anybody have any advice on theat?
The PO did the spring thing and all it did was stretch out.
The switch threads into the retainer. If the retainer breaks (common) and people don't know where to get a replacement, they use nuts instead.
In Steve's pic (post #2), you can see the nuts, but they were not there originally (see parts catalog pic in post #8).
C8TZ-13A629-A .. Brake Lamp Switch Retainer / Reproduced ~ Also available NOS
The two stamped nuts comes with the replacement brake light switch --probably because the aftermarket figured the original clip would be broken or long since gone.
The two stamped nuts comes with the replacement brake light switch --probably because the aftermarket figured the original clip would be broken or long since gone.
OP's lower pic in post #1 shows the nuts, but they weren't there originally.
I am thinking about a pressure switch at the master cylinder. Anybody have any advice on theat?
For a more graceful installation, this would be one solution --'95 Ford Explorer MC with cruise control (NAPA p/n M3247). In this application, there was a pressure switch screwed into the 'rhino horn' at the forward end of the MC. It was to sense pressure when you stepped on the brakes to cancel the cruise control.
However, this MC has a 1-1/16" bore diameter so, it would be best to have a dual diaphragm booster if using this MC.
There's also the option of using a Tee to connect a pressure switch into, as I did here on my friend's '65 F100, when discs were added to the front and I removed the single pot MC and installed and plumbed in a tandem MC.
Why buy an aftermarket made in china POS? Buy a Genuine Ford switch at your local Dealer.
68/72 F100/350 part number D2TZ13480B. Replaced by F6HZ13480EA. Still available from Ford.
I heard your salesman radio voice.
With double Nutting the switch, sometimes you do what ya gotta do.
I too hav a spring on my pedal. The bushings are worn out and my pedal assy crooks and hems up on the fan housing for my underdash A/C.
Hey Number, any leads on this rubber seal for the column cover?
C7TB3E544A....Not serviced separate...improvise. Comes with C7TZ3E532A Cover Kit.
Which coincides with Bill's pic in post #8. Notice there is no number pointing at the rubber piece by itself.
C7TZ3E532A is shown at the company below only. Good Luck. They can have real high prices. I'd go to H*me Depot or Ace and find some universal edging.
[QUOTE=JEFFFAFA;17558685]C7TB3E544A....Not serviced separate...improvise. Comes with C7TZ3E532A Cover Kit.
Which coincides with Bill's pic in post #8. Notice there is no number pointing at the rubber piece by itself.
C7TZ3E532A is shown at the company below only. Good Luck. They can have real high prices. I'd go to H*me Depot or Ace and find some universal
What about that black door guard stuff from the local autobox store?
C7TB3E544A....Not serviced separate...improvise. Comes with C7TZ3E532A Cover Kit.
Which coincides with Bill's pic in post #8. Notice there is no number pointing at the rubber piece by itself.
C7TZ3E532A is shown at the company below only. Good Luck. They can have real high prices. I'd go to H*me Depot or Ace and find some universal edging.
Bob Allen Ford
913-381-3000
Jeff, how did you access Bob Allen Ford's parts inventory online? All I get is a blank page to submit for help.
I do like the Home Depot idea, I typed in universal rubber edging. No Luck
For a more graceful installation, this would be one solution --'95 Ford Explorer MC with cruise control (NAPA p/n M3247). In this application, there was a pressure switch screwed into the 'rhino horn' at the forward end of the MC. It was to sense pressure when you stepped on the brakes to cancel the cruise control.
However, this MC has a 1-1/16" bore diameter so, it would be best to have a dual diaphragm booster if using this MC.
There's also the option of using a Tee to connect a pressure switch into, as I did here on my friend's '65 F100, when discs were added to the front and I removed the single pot MC and installed and plumbed in a tandem MC.
I have already planned for the power brake upgrade, I have a donated MC and booster tucked away in my garage now. Going to wait until I have the front disc brakes kit/assembly. Still thinking of staying with the Ford parts
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