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Ok Guys. Looking to tap into this large knowledge base you boys have happening. I just purchased my dream truck to rest mod. Questions. since money is tight I need to know what mods to make first. looking to update steering, braking, slop in the 4speed manual. and this truck is running 4.56 gearing( i think). looking for a list of things i should do. Thanks bunches. Gracias
Most of the mods you want to do have been done many times over and there are threads, like switching to a late 70s integral power steering box. Also, go to Fordification. Site is easy to navigate and there are good tutorials on about anything you can think of to modify a bumpside.
First off is the gearing. If you plan to go down the highway, 60 mph is getting onto the torture zone. I'd be looking at some gears in the 3.73 range for everyday driving.
Dream truck? How can it be your dream truck if you already don't like it? Rest mod (whatever that is)? Cheap?
Why even start? What would you use the truck for? Who's going to do the work? Where are you going to get parts and the money for them? When you run out of money, then what? The thing sits in pieces and eventually gets hauled off or parted out?
Not wanting to rain on your parade, but if your planning is as clear as your initial post, I'm not sure this project is going to go well. For some reason while reading your post this scholar comes to mind...
Step 1. Gear change... If ya got 35s, I'd run 4.10/4.11 gears. $600
Step 2. Pertronix ignition module. $90
Step 3. Sanderson headers (PN FF427), dual exhaust consisting of 2.5-inch mandrel bent tubing through free-flowing mufflers of your choice. $400+210+$170
Step 4. Performer RPM intake (PN 7105), new timing chain, maybe a cam for torque, Edelbrock water pump, and a 600 or 650 cfm four-barrel carburetor with vacuum secondaries. $400+$100+$150+$200+$250.
Step 5. Benchworks integral PS steering conversion... $1200.
Personally, I'd consider an EFI system like Sniper or Terminator.
As a corollary to Hio's excellent list, add a stroke test to your 390 unless you have the papers to prove it is really a 390 instead of a 360 which was the only V-8 in 4wd's 68-72. It is Number Dummy's rule #1 which is "a 390 on sale day, and a 352/360 any other day". Another thing is to change out your closed knuckle Dana 44 LD or HD axle to a disc brake-equipped 44 low pinion from 76-77, a disc-brake equipped high pinion 44, a 76-77 60 low pinion axle, or a 77.5-79 60 high pinion axle.
As farmallmta so loving stated. Complete one project to the fullest extent before moving to the next.
From HIOs list, in my opinion, to prioritize:
Step 2
Step 4 ( intake, carb, and water pump as they all tie together)
My next would be a disc brake conversion followed up with an Ultra Ranger braking package.
Start with the easier things while you learn your whip.
As a corollary to Hio's excellent list, add a stroke test to your 390 unless you have the papers to prove it is really a 390 instead of a 360 which was the only V-8 in 4wd's 68-72. It is Number Dummy's rule #1 which is "a 390 on sale day, and a 352/360 any other day". Another thing is to change out your closed knuckle Dana 44 LD or HD axle to a disc brake-equipped 44 low pinion from 76-77, a disc-brake equipped high pinion 44, a 76-77 60 low pinion axle, or a 77.5-79 60 high pinion axle.
All true but then even if it is a 360, it would respond just as well to the modifications and still be plenty strong runner. I've had some great running stock 360s and some dog 390s in pickups over the years. Somehow 390 fever set in way back in the 70s and everyone deemed the 360 as junk and the 390 as a gift from the gods, when actually there really isn't that much difference. 30 cubic inches or 10% simplistically.
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