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Preparing to convert from 2G to 3G, but I have several questions regarding fuses.
1.Is there an advantage one way or the other between Megafuses or Circuit breakers?
2. For a 130 amp alternator, what is the minimum and maximum fuse amperage recommended?
If you are running a single v-belt, you will never see 130 amps. The belt will slip before that happens. It's very common on these single belt swaps to get belt squeal right after a morning start. If that bothers you, I think they do make a special regulator that brings the alternator in slowly to help prevent this. You will still have the low rpm charging advantage the 3g provides.
Only advantage of a circuit breaker is it's renewable, and fuse would be one time. One disadvantage of the circuit breaker, they are more expensive.
Even though you will never see the 130 amp output, I believe I would still put at least a 150 amp mega fuse or circuit breaker in the new line from the alternator to the battery. You can get flat type fuses like the picture below, they are common on GM trucks. You could get the fuse holder from the junkyard(fuse too).
Does your current 2G voltage regulator plug have 3 wires or 2 wires on it.
If it has 3 wires feeding the plug you can use it as is, meaning less wiring changes.
Jim
If you are running a single v-belt, you will never see 130 amps. The belt will slip before that happens. It's very common on these single belt swaps to get belt squeal right after a morning start
My 130 amps 3g runs out of juice before the belt slips. I forget the exact number but I see about 130 amps out of it with no slippage. IIRC it'll do somewhere around 90 amps at idle though it noticeable drags down the idle of the 6.9. Of course with an old, less grippy, out of adjustment belt, or polished pulleys they can slip well below 130 amp output. I believe it's the 160-200 amp range where duel belts are required.
Is there an advantage one way or the other between Megafuses or Circuit breakers?
130 amps is a LOT of current and can do some major damage. If you ever found yourself in an overload condition, you'd want that circuit to open immediately without question. Theoretically you should never need that protection, but on the rare instance it's called into play, you want to be absolutely positive it will work.
A circuit breaker has moving pieces that may eventually stick, considering it would usually just sit there and never move for years and years. A fuse is not going to be affected by age, so I'd go that way myself.
Regarding circuit breaker vs fuse... I use a 60 amp breaker on the feed to my RTRM box that feeds lighting, blower motor, radio, etc. I use a fuse for the alternator. This was mostly due to space contraints for mounting, but a high amp fuse for the alternator should never pop, it's small enough to keep a spare in the glove box, and it's both simple and reliable. I think I prefer a fuse for that application, though I can't figure there's anything wrong with a breaker if you prefer.
Thanks gentlemen. I think I'll go with a 150 amp megafuse or maybe a 175 if that is more prudent. Now I just need to decide if it is worth the trouble to re-clock the alternator
JimsRebel: my current regulator plug has 3 wires. Does that mean that I can just make the white wire loop to the stator and leave the other 2 wires alone?
Sure am glad you guys understand electrical stuff, because it makes my head hurt.
JimsRebel: my current regulator plug has 3 wires. Does that mean that I can just make the white wire loop to the stator and leave the other 2 wires alone?
Sure am glad you guys understand electrical stuff, because it makes my head hurt.
Yes, but check the wire colors on the voltage regulator plug.. white for "S" and green for "I".
Are you currently using the stator output for a electric choke cap?
Jim
Not currently using anything to power the choke cap. I wasn't sure how to hook it up on my,shall we say, creative combination of parts. I told you electrical stuff makes my head hurt.
I will soon be installing an Edelbrock 4bbl. that uses 12 volts for the choke. Still have to figure out where to get that 12 volts. Probably just follow Edelbrock's suggestion of Accessory slot in the fuse box.
Another related question, when reclocking a 3G alternator, does it have to be disassembled or can it be loosened and rotated? Utube shows it done both ways. I don't want to mess it up.
While not ideal, my "use what you have" way of doing things led me to a large frame 3G on my old hotrod with a pair of 40 amp breakers paralleled. They came from a 4 wheeler sized Superwinch.
That was my first 3G install many years ago and it has worked flawlessly. But then there isn't much demand on the system.
JimsRebel: my current regulator plug has 3 wires. Does that mean that I can just make the white wire loop to the stator and leave the other 2 wires alone?
Sure am glad you guys understand electrical stuff, because it makes my head hurt.
Is there a particular reason why you are going to the 3G? If it's just a stock replacement, the stock wires would probably be ok. If you are thinking of adding something like high powered lights, winch, stereo, or something like that, I think I would add a 3rd wire along with the original 2 thick wires on the output, and run the third wire to feed the added equipment through a add-on fuse box mounted somewhere. Ford made the original wiring just big enough for the truck, and of course they messed up on your 2G, the slide on plug for the two wires could not handle the power, melted and caught on fire on a regular basis.
Definitely will add a 4 gauge output wire in addition to the 2 output wires already there. I am adding some lighting, driving lights and additional back-up lights. Mostly making the change to avoid the "flaming alternator syndrome", but better charging at low RPMs can't hurt.
thanks to all for the help.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/93660723@N05/, on Flickr
I do have one question. When I bought the new alt (RockAuto, btw) I also picked up a new belt since the existing one is clearly very old. Existing was a 6PK1255, but the 6PK1285 was the 100amp belt so I thought I should have that one. The belt, however tight I try to set it, still makes a lot of noise. Does the new alt still need to use the old belt size? Evidently the 100a size doesn't seem right.
I do have one question. When I bought the new alt (RockAuto, btw) I also picked up a new belt since the existing one is clearly very old. Existing was a 6PK1255, but the 6PK1285 was the 100amp belt so I thought I should have that one. The belt, however tight I try to set it, still makes a lot of noise. Does the new alt still need to use the old belt size? Evidently the 100a size doesn't seem right.
Well considering the new belt is 30mm longer it is no wonder it is squealing/slipping.
You old belt was 6 rib 1255mm long belt. the new one is a 6 Rib 1285mm long belt.
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