As per my thread build over on "Ford Six Performance -- Mild 300 for the street" Motor will be approx. 225-235 HP, 9.1 CR, Block milled .020, .012 deck with Hyper dish D pistons, moly rings, RV cam w/1.7 BBC roller rockers, EFI heart shape 69cc chamber head, 1.94/1.60 valves, Offy 4v dual port intake with Autolite 4100 1.08 carb.

Just a nice street runner that I can run on 89 or 91 octane in a hot rod to be determined.

I would like to run a old school P & C distributor with old style small cap, just cuzz I like old school hot rod motor styles.

What is a good P&C distributor out there on the web?
Want new or re-built as I have no parts for this?

Can I get a DUI /HEI distributor with the old style small cap & external HP Coil? I know the DUI unit would be a better performer.

Open to all ideas.

 

Pertronix Ignition
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...By=ProductName
They make a kit that replaces the P&C in a stock dist. so you can run the stock looking dist but never have to deal with points going out of adjustment/ wearing out.


The reason for the large dist. cap on the high out put dist. is to keep cross fire with in the cap low.
Being they put out higher voltage than the small cap dist. they cross fire and lose performance.
Dave ----

 

FF2 -- Thanks for the information on the on the large cap.

I have run the pertonixs unit in my Chevy 194 race motor and was very happy with the performance. My problem is a do not have a P&C distributor to modify.

A Pertronix distributor with their kit inside is 50% more than converting a P&C distributor.

 

I did not know if you knew of the kit or not, just wanted to point it out is all.
I would get a p/c dist local and then put the kit in it.
Dave - - - -

 

FuzzFace2 ----- No problem, the pertronix kit is a nice unit and I have had good luck with it. Have not had any luck finding a local parts house in my area (Southern, CA) that has a P&C Distributor (If it ain't got a computer part number they out of their realm. Any ideas on an "On Line Company)? What about Rock auto parts? Or a parts house that knows parts not just numbers.

 

Rock auto has reman'd points distributors for $54.00- $120.00 depending on the brand.

Just make sure to get one with the single vacuum advance not the dual vacuum advance/retard set up.

It's not that difficult just pick something that would have what your looking for like lets say search for a 1972 Ford F100 with a 300. Any good parts place should also be able able to get what you need.

The pertronix distributor would probably be a better quality then a stock reman'd unit. Most of the reman'd parts are junk. You are better off rebuilding one yourself. If you just want a stock distributor to rebuild I've proably got one or three laying around that I'd sell. I don't mess with them I prefer the Duraspark set ups myself.

You do know you could get a Duraspark I ( 1975-76 ) set up that used a small cap. It's a slightly different cap then the points distributor. But it's not the large pancake style one. You can check one out at Rockauto.com by searching "AUTOLINE D4005".

 

I would save the 4100 autolite. Finding one with all the original parts, without needing throttle shaft bushings, is almost impossible. There is NO guide, no catalog to consult, to find the correct booster numbers for your # carb. Ford designed them for big blocks and small blocks, turning all the internals accordingly. But, over the years, during countless rebuilds, parts get mixed and matched, making tuning impossible. I have run four diff. ones, bb and sb 1.08, and two 1.12's. I used to rebuild and sell them on ebay. Look, there's always a certain amount of ego in mechanics ("ha, I can build a 1.08 that would blow away...")so you will do what you like. My experience was that the Summit Racing 600 vs, which is based on the 4100, which holley copied in the holley 4010, and incorporates a holley choke, jets, etc., put every one of them to shame. I also found the 485 cfm 1.08 to be too small for my engine. It cut the performance noticeably. The Summit carb is built by Holley. It's a great carb, but if you run headers, use a Holley.

 

Thanks for the carb comments, will make a decision down the road.

 

F-250restorer ---I looked at the Summit 600 & 500 with Vac Secondary. I am not real up on vac secondary vs sale carb with mechanical secondary. Any idea's what might work or am I worrying about nothing? Carb will go on a mild so/so 300 about 225 - 240 HP, 9.3 CR, 1.94/1.6 valves, 69cc chambers, HD 600 truck exhaust and Dual port intake.

 

a points distributor requires running a ballast resistor, to reduce voltage to the coil. that's literally like leaving money (i mean power) on the table. unless you're using it to trigger a MSD, or something like that.

also- any points you can buy these days don't last like the old stuff did. i had a marine mechanic tell me the metal compounds have changed. Maybe so- all i know is i have to file mine way more than i think i should. (i use it to trigger a high-power ignition.)

from a performance perspective, *anything* would be better than a stock points ignition.

 

rustywheel68 --- thanks for the reply. As I want to keep the look as much old school but still have a good operating system, I'm leaning towards a black small cap HEI distributor with a old style chrome round 60K coil. Think it will work out real well.

 

let me make sure we're talking about the same things.
as far as i know, there is no small-cap high-output ignition, because of the risk of crossfire inside the smaller caps.
(unless you're looking at something like a MSD ready-to-run?)

GM HEI (aka DUI)
https://3e3070f2ae70c5627fcd-bde05fe...42de99ba80.jpg

Ford small-cap
http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/1...ibutor-cap.jpg

Ford large-cap
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/FBRMMXoIKhE/maxresdefault.jpg

 

rustywheel68 --- We are both on the same wave length. There is one of many on Ebay. Buddy of mine has a small cap HEI unit from CRT Performance that runs a 40K coil and he has had it running for 1 1/2 years with no problem. I also know a couple of guys that have run some because of clearance problems on street rods. You still may be right, but so far no problems.

 

ah, gotcha- the CRT unit looks similar to the MSD ready-to-run.
i haven't used one, but it calls for the removal of the ballast resistor to get full 12v to the coil.

that sounds good to me- keep us posted.

 

I'm amused when 1.5 years of use without issue means reliability. I don't mean that as a slight against you, but rather as a measuring stick to show how times have changed. So, if a distributor lasts for a few years, is that a good quality dizzy?

If you get a DS2 dizzy it might last for your grand kids. Or, you throw a knockoff made in who-knows-where, and it's good for ... hey, at least 1.5 years. What could be better. And that is quality. Excellent.