Weak injector pulse?
#1
Weak injector pulse?
Mornin guys,
Ok wasn't able to get the trans swap done in the F250 this weekend so I decided to get the new 1990 project bronco running with intentions of driving it for awhile.
Repaired the bad wire at the EEC relay & put in a new relay while I was there so now it's firing the plugs.
Replaced the fuel pump relay due to corroded contacts. Pump started running but still no fuel pressure. Pulled the filter & had no flow from the pump while running. Pulled the tank, inside was pure rust & the sock was shallacked over. New tank & pump ordered. New brakes & front lines, wheel cylinders & shoes, new wheels & tires, thermostat, rad flush & oil change & flomasters done while waiting for new tank. Ok new tank & pump installed, pumped lines clean, 10gal of fresh fuel & a bottle of sea foam. No start, plug in the noid light & the pulse is very weak.
The previous owner mentioned it had a cold start issue even in a warm day, they used either to get it to bust off. Decided to give it a shot. It started & the noid light became very bright. Shut it off plugged in the injector & it fired up on its own as it should. Let it run to clean the injectors for a bit & let the coolant circulate. Everything was goin good at this point. Moved it around a few times, tightens a wheel bearing, checked hubs, top hats :-( . Started it several times thru out the day it's was great. Took it for a test drive & it cuts out at 2,500 rpms. Took it back to the house & it dies just before the drive way. No restart. Small shot of either & it fired up and ran good. Moved it around the yard with no problems.
What could cause a weak injector pulse at cranking? Module, pick up, ecm, ground.....?
Any help would be appreciated.
Ok wasn't able to get the trans swap done in the F250 this weekend so I decided to get the new 1990 project bronco running with intentions of driving it for awhile.
Repaired the bad wire at the EEC relay & put in a new relay while I was there so now it's firing the plugs.
Replaced the fuel pump relay due to corroded contacts. Pump started running but still no fuel pressure. Pulled the filter & had no flow from the pump while running. Pulled the tank, inside was pure rust & the sock was shallacked over. New tank & pump ordered. New brakes & front lines, wheel cylinders & shoes, new wheels & tires, thermostat, rad flush & oil change & flomasters done while waiting for new tank. Ok new tank & pump installed, pumped lines clean, 10gal of fresh fuel & a bottle of sea foam. No start, plug in the noid light & the pulse is very weak.
The previous owner mentioned it had a cold start issue even in a warm day, they used either to get it to bust off. Decided to give it a shot. It started & the noid light became very bright. Shut it off plugged in the injector & it fired up on its own as it should. Let it run to clean the injectors for a bit & let the coolant circulate. Everything was goin good at this point. Moved it around a few times, tightens a wheel bearing, checked hubs, top hats :-( . Started it several times thru out the day it's was great. Took it for a test drive & it cuts out at 2,500 rpms. Took it back to the house & it dies just before the drive way. No restart. Small shot of either & it fired up and ran good. Moved it around the yard with no problems.
What could cause a weak injector pulse at cranking? Module, pick up, ecm, ground.....?
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Do the crank no start diagnosis for your engine here:
troubleshootmyvehicle.com
or
easyautodiagnositics.com
When I followed it I found that I had a weak PIP signal from the stator in the distributor. Replaced/rebuilt the distributor and all is good. Follow the crank no start diagnosis decision tree. It will pinpoint your problem. I "bought" the author of both websites "a beer" ($20) for helping me diagnose my issue. It is not required but it was well worth it to me.
troubleshootmyvehicle.com
or
easyautodiagnositics.com
When I followed it I found that I had a weak PIP signal from the stator in the distributor. Replaced/rebuilt the distributor and all is good. Follow the crank no start diagnosis decision tree. It will pinpoint your problem. I "bought" the author of both websites "a beer" ($20) for helping me diagnose my issue. It is not required but it was well worth it to me.
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