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I have done this before had truck on hoist heated the hell out of it with a torch then got the sledge hammer and pounded really hard but finally got it!
Have you tried hammering it back IN? As Red Mercury and JakeHan mentioned, you probably are fighting grit and gravel more than rust. It might just be wedging a piece in tighter trying to pull it out. Going the wrong way first might free it up if that is the case. If so, I would definitely go the pressure washer idea before trying to pull it back out.
Chances are if you get it out, the rust was formed from the receiver and the tube. There will be quite a bit of material gone from both pieces. When you put a new receiver in the old tube it will be loose and bang around. You would be time and effort ahead to replace both pieces.
Chances are if you get it out, the rust was formed from the receiver and the tube. There will be quite a bit of material gone from both pieces. When you put a new receiver in the old tube it will be loose and bang around. You would be time and effort ahead to replace both pieces.
Likely not . When steel alloys rust, the iron oxides expand 6 times of the parent material lost. If you lose just 0.020" of the parent material you will end up with a 0.120" layer of iron oxide, that's almost an 1/8 of inch (0.125"), That is more than enough to jam a receiver in the tube so a loss of 0.010" of parent material on each side will easily jam the receiver in the tube but not be enough to create a situation where it would banging around after wards
It is better to have a bit of slop than none. If it is banging around a small bit it will break up the corrosion that forms, and prevent corrosion build up from fracturing the receiver tube. If that happens you have bigger problems to worry about.
It is never bad idea to use some anti seize or grease or what ever to keep corrosion at bay. This is one application were NOALOX can't be beat.
The OP states it has been in there for a number of years(2-30?). My gut tells me that the frozen together situation did not happen in the last month otherwise he would have it out fairly easy. The corrosion doesn't stop once the avalible space is full. If it were me, I would cut my losses and replace. The suggestions have ranged from removing and using a press to hooking up a chain and yanking. To use a press, it's already removed, if the chain breaks, he has to fix what it hits along with the hitch...
I spent several hours of hammering and pulling with a 10k wench to seperate the arm of an engine hoist only to find it was almost rusted through the 1/4 material. I nearly ruined my winch cable and if it would have broke who knows what else. From seeing the results of that is why I suggest replacing.
One of my dad's friends is a retired pipeline welder, and he recommends soaking the pieces in water (in our case, it was the PTO shaft on a brush hog) for a day or so, then start whacking on it. Apparently, it's an old oilfield trick.
It didn't work on the PTO shaft, though. My dad ended up taking a grinder and cutting along the length of the outer sleeve. That sucker was stuck but good...
is the tube open all the way thru or is it boxed in? You could install a grease zerk if its boxed in and use grease gun to push it out. Since you have it off the truck now maybe dunk it into a bucket of evap-o-rust to eat away at it for a while too.
Cut the center section out and weld a new one in and be done with it. There are many places that sell tubes for building them. Lots of time has been spent trying to salvage something that is rusted so bad the parts won't come apart. A welder can have it fixed in less than 30 minutes.
There you go! I got lucky reviving an old piece. Ground it and bedlined it. No holes drilled. Re-using the frame sections with all new tubing would be worth the time to rebuild honestly. I hate drilling holes.