wiring problem
I have a wiring problem. Does anyone have a diagram? The person who had the truck before me put in a rear window brake light??? Don't know why? Back brake lights did not work I guess thats why they did it. They also wired it for a camper too so I have a big mess at the back-end of the truck. Well low and behold the light they installed stayed on all the time. I'm sure it is a simple problem but i'm not and expert on wiring.
Thanks!!!!
There should be 4 wires going to the rear of truck(from under cab). 1: reverse lights
2: running lights
3: left turn
4: right turn
Now with that said the running lights is USUALLY a brown wire, the turn signals are yellow and green(I forget which is which for left and right) and dont know the reverse color. A simple test light will confirm what is what.
The rear window brake light was probably NOT wired in correctly for a "single tail light" application, that is why it stayed on. OR maybe they hooked it to the wrong side of the brake switch under the dash and that is why it was always on. Trace the wire from it and remove it so it does NOT create other problems.
It's easiest to get it all back to plain and stock so nothing is creating problems.
Does the truck still have the original wires out back or is it all cut up?? My one truck was all butchered and owner said "leave it alone, it all works". Well I got under there, ran new wires from up front and soldered all connections. It was all good from then on.
Good Luck
Larry
Ok everyone i came with this problem yesterday about my light problem on my 1967 P.U. F100. Here is what it is doing and may I say I was under it yesterday I noticed it must of been rewired because I seen the old wiring still there.
First does anyone know how many wires are suppose to be on the brake switch and do they all go to just the 12+ side?
OK here is what is going on:
1.ignation switch is off!! Right turn signal is in the right turn signal position(should not be any power going there because ignation switch is off) BUT!! the left brake light comes on.
2.Put turn signal in the center position,both brake lights on?(should not be because ignation switch off)
3.Put left signal on the position of left turn,right brake light on?
4. Then i go back to center position and then only the right brake is on not both this time?
WITH ignation switch on.
1.put right signal on the turn signal works and the left brake light is on and also slightley blinking.
2.in center position both brake lights are on.
3.put left signal on and that works fine?????BUT with engine running the right brake light stays on???
4.with engine running the turn signal in the center position,right brake light is on?
5.put signal in right position engine running,signal works but again left brake light is on and blinking a little.
When i turn on the head lights all lights are blinking including headlights and park lights????
Man this thing is driving me crazy!!!! Does anyone know what is going on?????
Thanks
Wayne

The brake light switch is stuck closed, the brakelights will work with just the battery....ignition switch off. The turn signal switch interupts the power to the brake light....right turn signal on no power to the right brakelight.
The flashing and other werid stuff is probably due to a bad ground at the light sockets, or maybe a corroded bulb socket.
ps
As far as I can remember there is only 2 wires to the brakelight switch, one on each side of the switch....doesnt matter which side as long as they are on opposite sides. With cruise control I think there may be a few more wires but I have never had cruise control
You have a mess on yer hands. Sparky's right about the brake switch. Should only be 2 wires on it. With the brake pedal out you should have 12VDC on only one wire. When brake pedal is in you should have 12VDC on both wires.
If indeed your brake switch is shorted and affecting all your other lights, disconnect one of it's wires and see if it affects your other problems.
Good luck,
GWB
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Don't you just love people who don't take the time to do a wiring job properly.

I'd also take a look at your hazard light circuit. It should be hot irregardless of ignition switch position, so this may be partially to blame.
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The problem isn't as complicated as it seems but trouble shooting these things requires being there which only you are.
I have seen some strange and confusing things due to bad grounds. The electricity trys to find a path back to ground where ever it can and manytimes the only path is through the other element in a dual element bulb, this is called feedback. I have also seen the element in a bulb break and lay across the other post which seemed like an extremely confusing thing to diagnos the symtoms of. Don't over complicate it just yet. Check all the grounds and clean the sockets.
The other advice here is good, start checking at the connectors ect. But first go under the rear of the pickup and look for signs of old repairs or trailer connectors. If you see a big mess like gobs of tape or scotch locs or household wiring twist-on connectors the you really need to straighten that mess up. Also those old wires get brittle under there and break. Another thing that happens is when the steering columns get changed there are two different configurations on the connector for the turn signals and you have to straighten that out. I don't remember which wires you have to switch but it has been covered in other threads recently. Does the pickup have any aftermarket, or owner installed things like radio/stereo or instrument cluster? If the answer is yes, you may now panic. If it is too big a mess you may want to get another harness from a donor vehicle. A savvy mechanic can also straighten it out pretty fast, but remember that only about 10-20% of mechanics really understand electricity any better than you. It may take them forever and they will start lying and yanking your chain to cover the fact that they are clueless. I have had trucks come in on a slideback form other shops that had new alternator, regulator, battery and starter and still weren't fixed. I had a Dodge come in like that once. The other shop had it for 2 weeks and even had the huevos to charge the poor hapless owner full price on parts and labor and then have him tow it away. It took me all of ten minutes to find the problem(fried fusable link). Well now you have some direction and a lot of good advice. Once again check all the grounds including a good body to frame or engine ground, remember the body sets on rubber. I have seen fried speedo cables before because that was the only ground and couldn't carry the load of the starter. Tally HO!!
thanks,
Christopher King
Funny what people will do. I had a rusted out fuse box so the prior owner rewired the whole truck instead of just replacing the box?
Ken
68 F100 390
74 Bronco 351W





