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OK, thx for the replies. Alternator is gonna wait for round 2 until I figure out what I really want to do, great info and suggestions. I feel good about the big stuff happening Monday. I'll let that soak in and go for round 2 with external fixes I can do.
BTW, is a coolant filter really a good add? I originally planned on it, cheap and easy, can do it myself. My buddy said it's not worth it and the oil is what clogs ****. It's hard to juggle real life friends that are 25 yr Ford diesel mechanics and dudes on the internet! He would be the first to say he doesn't have all of the answers, but he sees a lot of these trucks daily. I KNOW there is a LOT of good knowledge on these boards, wouldn't be asking if I didn't feel that way.
I'm sure a couple internet searches will help you make an informed decision. But in my mind, there's many more places that would suffer an untimely death due to dirty oil than the cooler. Plus, don't these trucks come with an oil filter?
My deltas as stated in the first post, first paragraph of this thread are 15-17, bad.
I'm up against the gun dropping off the truck 7am Monday. Is it terrible to have him flush with VC9, install ford gold, new oil cooler and BPD egr? Should i pump the brakes and get ELC and coolant filter first? Need more beer.....
You don't mention gauges. You need to be able to monitor your systems. Especially if it sits a lot, you will have problems with the turbo sticking. That will show up as slow buildup of boost.
You don't mention gauges. You need to be able to monitor your systems. Especially if it sits a lot, you will have problems with the turbo sticking. That will show up as slow buildup of boost.
First paragraph of first post I state I have an SG-2. I monitor boost. Not very familiar with the scangauge yet, are you talking low boost, or something else?
i think I will go find some ELC tomorrow morning. How much, 4 gallons of concentrate? 50/50 with dw water, ya? Beer 30, gonna go watch my Washington Huskies! Check back in the morning. I REALLY appreciate the help.
You will be kist right with 4 gallons of ELC. You only need 3.5 but I don't
think anyone is doing ½ gallons. Skip the VC9 and just flush the snot out of it.
I have done 2 trucks that way and no problems.
One thing to have him check is the condition of all the hoses. You might also
want to stick a new T-stat in. The Motorcraft one does not seem to hold up
well over time. The one in this photo is from HI and had done well.
I found that I was only getting one winter out of the MC ones.
You don't need to do the coolant filter at the same time as coolant swap out. I did my coolant filter months later: I used the fumoto valve on the drivers side to drain the system down so I didn't have a complete mess of coolant up top. I went with the XDP filter (use discount code DIESEL10 for an extra 10% off), and everything came in their kit - you don't have to cut a single stock line...
Easy Peasy...
I also had a VC9 flush done when switching from the gold to ELC. Since you are doing your cooler, just make sure the flush happens FIRST, not after the new oil cooler is in. He should know this.
I think it is in the koolaid they feed some of the techs: A guy I really wanted to use was a Ford Master Tech - but now had his own shop, fought me on everything, from coolant changeover, to filter, to Fumotos, and even the 08+ pan/filter for the trans. I went to another shop and they were familiar with EVERYTHING Of course roll forward a few years and another 6.0 pal of mine (who goes to the first guy regularly), shows up with the trans pan and filter in hand and the Tech is like: hmmm, I can see how this is an upgrade... My friend still runs Ford Gold though...
I did my trans pan and filter myself too...
You're getting the top stuff done first -- you are doing fine...
Thanks Dan! Just ordered up the XPD coolant filter, $112, no tax free shipping! I'll put it on in a week or 2.
Lay it out first: I snipped a bit off the new line from the radiator to degas to make the run across the fan shroud cleaner. Oh: and tighten the snot out of the fittings in/out of the filter base (with the provided teflon tape on) - way more than you think... Mine leaked there and I re-did that part twice before it sealed. Oh #2: regardless of kit, put some silicone Grease, or equiv. on the filter seal, and each time you change a filter -- many folks end up with a way too tight filter on the first change without that...
Now get to it!!! Right, I guess you already are....
So Ford didn't use an IH thermostat in the 6.0? I would have thought it would be same part but with Ford part number. Interesting.
That is the funny thing. I think the first one is but if you buy Motorcraft
they are not. Most if not all of the Motorcraft is classified as aftermarket
parts. The stuff they use on the line when they build is the better stuff.
For example brake pads. You can get the MC ones and they do ok or the
MC blue ones and they do so much better because they are the ones they
use when they build the truck on the line. The one big exception is injectors.
Always go with MC injectors unless you like problems.
"Bulletproof" stuff is way over-hyped, way over-priced and provides little return for the obscene costs. Spend the money saved at Anthony's in Des Moines or Salty's on Alki -- take the wife, kids, friends and enjoy the great times, great views.
I run Caterpillar ELC in all my diesel vehicles -- never a problem and while pricey it provides a decent return for dollars spent.
Of course roll forward a few years and another 6.0 pal of mine (who goes to the first guy regularly), shows up with the trans pan and filter in hand and the Tech is like: hmmm, I can see how this is an upgrade... My friend still runs Ford Gold though... 
