I haven't posted recently but now I find myself with a question I can find no help for. I have a 2004 Excursion 6.0. I have the Bulletproof remote oil cooler and remote filter. I really like them both. The problem is oil changes. OEM is 15 quarts with the filter. The Bulletproof stuff adds 5 quarts to my system (according to Bulletproof as of 10:00 EST this morning). Change oil and filter now takes 16 quarts because of the very large remote oil filter (Fram PH2883). I use Rotella full synthetic. My question is about leaving 1 gallon of dirty oil in the engine. I have been changing the oil every 5,000 miles. Some say with Synthetic 7,500 is OK -- I am just stating what I have read. What adjustments should I make to my oil changes? Leaving 1 gallon of dirty oil in the system kind of rubs me the wrong way but short of dismantling the oil cooler system, I see no way around that. Some have suggested blowing the lines and cooler out -- That idea makes me nervous as Bulletproof's installation instructions say NOTE: PRE-FILLING THE ENGINE OIL COOLER WITH OIL IS BOTH NECESSARY AND PARAMOUNT! -- that is straight off their website.
Here are my questions:
1) Opinion on whether the full synthetic can be used safely for more than 5,000 miles -- easy driver, no 4 wheeling, no heavy towing, etc.
2) Should I change out say 1 gallon of oil after 3,000 miles (or X miles) because of the dirty 1 gallon left after changing?
3) Should I change the filter after 3,000 (or X miles) which would mean a new filter and at least a quart of new oil?
Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.

Doug

 

The oil left over won't hurt it.

 

Me thinks owners manual states oil changes are at 7500 miles unless severe service then, 5000 miles. If you are using Rotella T6 as I do, and after having oil analysis done after towing heavy they still come back and say to drive it ANOTHER 5000 miles that you as an light duty driver should be fine .... if in doubt, send in an oil sample after 5000 miles and have it tested.

 

The FRAM remote filter jumped out at me. I don't know much about the set up, but begs the question what other guys are using for a remote filter with this style set up?

 

I will review the owners manual for the OEM guidance. I did earlier today send for a kit from Blackstone, I think the name of the firm was -- $28 for the analysis. So Once I get the kit I will find out for sure. Right now I have 7,000 (almost) on the last change -- time I think to find out what is what.
navistarnut: When I read your response it jumped out that perhaps the Fram filter was of concern to you -- or perhaps it was the model number, not sure. Is it an issue with the Fram filter brand? Obviously there are others available I could switch to if this isn't a good choice.
Thanks for the comments and ideas.
Doug

 

I think the general consensus here is that anything that says Fram is not worth the ink use to label it.
At least not for a 6.0

 

Across the automotive world Fram has a poor rep for years and years. So long I can’t remember the reason. Maybe they have improved their act over time but the attitude is still there.

 

FWIW with the engine in stock form there is a quart or two that is left under the oil cooler when draining the oil. So there is always some oil that you can't get out during an oil change.

.

 

It kind of reminds me of the rap that Penzoil had, maybe still has, for years.
I grew up hearing everyone say it was not a very good oil, and if you ran it, and only it, in an engine it was an ok oil, but when you switched to Penzoil to something else it might cause issues.
I know that might sound like an old wives tale, but there must have been a reason years ago it stuck, and why when one does a google search you get
things like "penzoil is junk" or "causes sludge"

 

WOW! Thanks for all of the input. I will cross reference the Fram number and see what else is out there. I had no idea. I remember the TV commercials -- "Pay me now or pay me later." Don't know much else about them.

 

...all those Penzoil and Quaker State "sludge" problems were before the multi-grade and synthetic oils came out. But I agree...old wives tails never die!

I remember driving thru Oil City, PA and QS and Pens where right across the street from each other - you had to drive under a batch of overhead pipeline going by the refineries !!! Gee, wonder if they were the same oil?? This was in mid-fifties.

 

My wife worked for a firm that had an office in Oil City. That was (10 years ago) exactly as you described it. I doubt it will ever change much.

 

Old thread but I felt compelled to address the question about what filters to use in the BPD remote filtering setup. Wix makes great filters and part number 51832 is for the main filter and 51050 covers the bypass filter. If you'd like to buy local, Napa's Gold line of filters is made by Wix and their part numbers simply drop the '5' in the front of the Wix numbers. That's what I use on my BPD-equipped truck.

 

Tampa250;
Thank you for your thoughts and information. I am not sure if we are talking about the same thing. I have the BPD remote oil cooler with the remote oil filter. That does away completely with the cartridge type of OEM filter and uses instead a very large spin on filter mounted in front of the driver's side front tire behind a metal "rock guard." I will check out those numbers you provided.
Thank you.