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Ok, the carb spacer although it helps, is not a heat shield......which is/was basically a flat piece of sheetmetal that attached inbetween the carb plate and extended out about 4" or so to protect/deflect the heat off the carb...... I don't know if they still make them but you can certainly fab one out very cheap and try........... but IMHO- boiling gas in carb is the issue.
Correct on the heat shield/phenol spacer. Is there any chance of a photo of the engine compartment fuel line routing? You might not only be fighting vapor lock but also blend separation.
When this occurs does the car cut-off altogether? At that point you need to open the hood (stop the car first) and check for fuel supply by opening the throttle linkage and looking for a fuel shot. No shot - no fuel delivery.
I have been consecrating on this and have come to the realization that while not a bad initial design, having the carb/intake asm directly over the exhaust manifold is not a good idea with today's fuel.
One would have to (at minimum - IMO) fashion a heat shield and insulate the fuel supply line. An electric pump with a return should solve the problem from the get-go.
IMHO.....yes, make a heat shield for the car and it looks like you could fab up a heat shield to run on top of the exhaust manifold upper manifold bolts for attachment) and then get some fuel line insulation (BTW, with the fuel line placed the way it is, I doubt if an e-pump would make that much of a difference)
I have replaced the fuel pickup/sending unit, cleaned the gas tank and lines, changed the fuel filter, changed the fuel pump, and replaced the carburetor with an after market. I can get the engine running and drive the vehicle, I cannot get it to idle and have hesitation problems. Could this be caused by distributor problems? I have checked to the best of my abilities for vacuum leaks. Could the PCV valve be a possible culprit? ANY DIRECTION OR IDEAS ON WHERE TO GO NEXT WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Remotely it's tough because there could be soo many potential items..... carb adjustment, initial timing, valve adjustment, vacume leak..... but i'm tending to lean towords carb or ignition system adjustment or a defective component including points/condenser/rotor/cap
It has been converted to a pointless system, I have been having this problem, intermittently for a couple of years. I will work on it until I am at the dynamite stage, the damn thing will start running fine for a few months and then...............
I have replaced the fuel pickup/sending unit, cleaned the gas tank and lines, changed the fuel filter, changed the fuel pump, and replaced the carburetor with an after market.
Explain aftermarket...
I can get the engine running and drive the vehicle, I cannot get it to idle and have hesitation problems.
Could this be caused by distributor problems? I have checked to the best of my abilities for vacuum leaks. Could the PCV valve be a possible culprit? ANY DIRECTION OR IDEAS ON WHERE TO GO NEXT WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Your engine (170ci six, right?) is a LOAD-O-MATIC design, and unique to your fuel and ign systems.
Does your replacement carb have the SPARK CONTROL VALVE shown in the ill? It appears the same as an internal power valve.
Yes the carburetor has the spark control valve. I think it has the correct distributor for the spark control valve carburetor, but have not been able to definitely determine that. Is there a way I can visually identify if it is the correct distributor?
Yes the carburetor has the spark control valve. I think it has the correct distributor for the spark control valve carburetor, but have not been able to definitely determine that. Is there a way I can visually identify if it is the correct distributor?
You bought a REMAN 1100 correct and the main trouble started then?
You say a pointless system in one post. Was it a conversion or was the distributor itself changed?
Originally Posted by lauxg
An update on the Fuel Problem:
I have replaced the fuel pickup/sending unit, cleaned the gas tank and lines, changed the fuel filter, changed the fuel pump, and replaced the carburetor with an after market. I can get the engine running and drive the vehicle, I cannot get it to idle and have hesitation problems. Could this be caused by distributor problems? I have checked to the best of my abilities for vacuum leaks. Could the PCV valve be a possible culprit? ANY DIRECTION OR IDEAS ON WHERE TO GO NEXT WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Did you replace all of the rubber fuel lines (low pressure EFI rated)?
GOOGLE fuel pump pressure and volume test.
Buy a QUALITY vacuum gauge.
Who did you buy from and who is the re-builder of the replacement carb?
The replacement carburetor was not the cause of the problem, it was one of the endeavors to fix the problem. The engine is the 200 CI. All of the fuel hoses were replaced and the metal fuel lines cleaned. I think the pointless system is a conversion, it was done when I purchased the vehicle. The carb is a new Asian manufactured 1100. I read a lot of reviews before buying the carburetor, all were good with the exception the choke spring was installed backwards. It appears they have corrected this from the complaints. I left the carburetor in the refrigerator for 24 hours before installing and the choke plate was closed when removed. I have and use a good vacuum gauge.
The replacement carburetor was not the cause of the problem, it was one of the endeavors to fix the problem.
The engine is the 200 CI. All of the fuel hoses were replaced and the metal fuel lines cleaned. The carb (REPLACEMENT) is a new Asian manufactured 1100.
I read a lot of reviews before buying the carburetor, all were good with the exception the choke spring was installed backwards. It appears they have corrected this from the complaints. I left the carburetor in the refrigerator for 24 hours before installing and the choke plate was closed when removed.
... You still have the original (hopefully) carburetor, correct?
Is there an I.D. Tag or any markings on the take-off carb?
I think the pointless system is a conversion, it was done when I purchased the vehicle.
I have and use a good vacuum gauge.
You have to confirm it is a LOAD-O-MATIC. When you go through the TECH ARTICLES, it should give you enough info to identify.
Carburetor: I do not have the original carburetor, a re-manufactured carburetor was purchased shortly after I purchased the Ranchero, I had to give the original as a core. I still have the re-manufactured carburetor, it is a piece of junk. It was missing parts and improperly coated internally. If I had it to do over I would have still purchased the re-manufactured carburetor, but would have paid the difference for the core, lesson learned.
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