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When I got my '68 it had an electric fuel pump, some of these don't work well, some do. I opted for a standard mechanical pump, I had a new one on hand but not the same as was original on the 240, a pump for much later six engines. Sure it fit perfect, got new lines made, all seemed OK until the trouble started, engine would flood after being stopped, hard to get started sometimes unless left overnight.
I have since ordered a new original style pump for my '68, one with the built in filter. I have a hunch these earlier pumps used less fuel pressure that matches the carb's used on these engines, earlier carb's maybe not meant for higher fuel pressure, does somebody know if this is the case or not ..?..
I could have put in a simple pressure control I suppose, we'll see how this new original style pump works out, sure can't be any worse.
Spring tension in these pumps determines fuel pressure, as can the gasket thickness. We'll soon find out if indeed there is a difference in these springs in different years, my needle & seat are new, should hold back excess pressure but ... maybe not ... ?..
Thanks,
warren e
I have seen issues of dirt when they do that because there is no filter when they give you the newer style unless you put one somewhere.
Nope, their is no dirt whatever, brand new copper gas line from tank to an inline filter just before the fuel pump, all new copper line from the pump to the carb' and the carb completely apart down to everything and cleaned.
Truck runs perfect but when you stop and shut it off for awhile, come back and it's more or less 'flooded', takes some turning to get it going again, then runs perfect as before.
The pressure left in the pump (because of the spring which makes your fuel pump pressure) is there, pressing on the needle & seat. If the pressure is more than the float & needle can hold back, i'ts going to overcome and flood the carb until the spring has exhausted it's travel, the pressure then gone.
We'll see what happens when my new and original style pump comes, a full report when it does and how it works then.... we'll see....
Without knowing which pump you were using and what fuel pressure that exact pump was creating it's hard to say. It's internal fuel pressure regulator might be defective and allowing the pump to put out more pressure. But your symptoms sound more like fuel percolation to me. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can install in the line to see what the pressure is? Both while running and when you shut the engine off. AKA when it's flooding. Where and how you ran the pump to carb line may be the problem.
Without knowing which pump you were using and what fuel pressure that exact pump was creating it's hard to say. It's internal fuel pressure regulator might be defective and allowing the pump to put out more pressure. But your symptoms sound more like fuel percolation to me. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can install in the line to see what the pressure is? Both while running and when you shut the engine off. AKA when it's flooding. Where and how you ran the pump to carb line may be the problem.
The pump I'm using is from Ford but for a much later model six banger, not the pump that is supposed to be there. Later sixes maybe ran at higher pressure, the carbs are not the same either, my carb is a '68.
There is no pressure regulation in these pumps, the big spring that pushes on the diaphragm is what creates fuel pressure, it's tension determines the pressure. I'm thinkin' the early carbs were meant for lower pressure, the later are higher, I've been told that by people that should know.
My fuel line is exactly as Ford had it in '68, the engine runs cool, there is no gas boiling, my needle/seat and float can't hold back the pressure from this particular pump.
My new and correct pump will be here Monday, then we'll see what happens.
Thanks much,
warren e
The pump I'm using is from Ford but for a much later model six banger, not the pump that is supposed to be there. Later sixes maybe ran at higher pressure, the carbs are not the same either, my carb is a '68.
There is no pressure regulation in these pumps, the big spring that pushes on the diaphragm is what creates fuel pressure, it's tension determines the pressure. I'm thinkin' the early carbs were meant for lower pressure, the later are higher, I've been told that by people that should know.
My fuel line is exactly as Ford had it in '68, the engine runs cool, there is no gas boiling, my needle/seat and float can't hold back the pressure from this particular pump.
My new and correct pump will be here Monday, then we'll see what happens.
Thanks much,
warren e
Could be. I'm not arguing. I had always assumed the outlet valve also acted as a pressure regulator.
Anytime a fuel pump is changed it's probably not a bad plan to check float height and fuel level in the bowl and adjust as required. Then re-set idle fuel mixture needles etc.
Could be. I'm not arguing. I had always assumed the outlet valve also acted as a pressure regulator.
Nope, that valve is just that, another valve and that's all. Only one thing regulates pressure and that's the spring that does the pushing, stronger the spring the higher the pressure.
My new original type pump is HERE. It has a replaceable filter built in, I'll need a longer rubber hose to connect to the gas line since this eliminates my in-line filter. I'm off to town to get that, then we can put 'er on !!!!
Electric pumpz regulate pressure in a different way, some use a spring that provides pressure, the electric to '****' it each time, or pulse. Some have an electric motor, these are good pumps. In some the electric magnetic pull regulates pressure.
The one you show here is the typical pump, since pumps as such began in the 1920's, Vacuum tanks were the first pumps. Model A and Model T used NO pumps at all. (simple and best)
Thanks,
warren e
Somewhere I heard that you had to drive the early cars backwards when going up steep inclines so that gravity could feed the pump.....
That was the Model T. Not enough power in the engine and 1st gear to drive up steep hills. Reverse was geared lower so they could back up hills.
BTW, do you guys know that thanks to the model T that's how Chevrolet got started? Yep. People used to race with the Model T engine back then. The Chevrolet boys figured out , built, and sold a racing cylinder head for the Model T engine. They made so much money from them that they started building Chevys. And you know where they got the idea for the Chevy Bow tie? From that emblem being on the wallpaper in their hotel room in France.
Somewhere I heard that you had to drive the early cars backwards when going up steep inclines so that gravity could feed the pump.....
This is far-fetched but has some truth. Model T's had gravity feed but the tank was under the front seat, not any too high but higher than the updraft carb'.
If a hill was steep enough (really STEEP) the fuel fed better backing up, also...
reverse gear was more powerful than low gear so that was another angle.
The Model A came in '28, had an in-cowl tank and plenty high, very good fuel flow in any conditions. Neither had any fuel pump, didn't need it.
That was the Model T. Not enough power in the engine and 1st gear to drive up steep hills. Reverse was geared lower so they could back up hills.
BTW, do you guys know that thanks to the model T that's how Chevrolet got started? Yep. People used to race with the Model T engine back then. The Chevrolet boys figured out , built, and sold a racing cylinder head for the Model T engine. They made so much money from them that they started building Chevys. And you know where they got the idea for the Chevy Bow tie? From that emblem being on the wallpaper in their hotel room in France.
I had a '26 Model T touring, built it from tons of junk, when completed we took it on a 2000 mile trip, unassisted and alone, from central MN to Medora ND, then down to the Devil's Tower in WY, then to Mt. Rushmore and we went up some serious steep slopes without a problem, plenty of power and everything exact Ford Model T original (restoration). A lot of these old stories are just that, a lot of 'story' and little facts.
I'm 84 and was there.
I have an experience and a fix I really can't explain, probably percolation. My 72 would be real hard, sometimes impossible to start on a hot soak. Somehow I found if I cracked open the output line on the fuel pump there would be a lot of pressure there. Do this and relieve the pressure and it would start. Eventually I installed an adjustable pressure regulator at the pump and it cured the issue. Completely stock 300 and it was perfectly happy with 1 1/2 psi setting.
Why did you use copper instead of steel? Copper really isn't well suited for automotive use. Vibration can cause it to work harden and fail.
I have an experience and a fix I really can't explain, probably percolation. My 72 would be real hard, sometimes impossible to start on a hot soak. Somehow I found if I cracked open the output line on the fuel pump there would be a lot of pressure there. Do this and relieve the pressure and it would start. Eventually I installed an adjustable pressure regulator at the pump and it cured the issue. Completely stock 300 and it was perfectly happy with 1 1/2 psi setting.
Why did you use copper instead of steel? Copper really isn't well suited for automotive use. Vibration can cause it to work harden and fail.
Yep, a pressure regulator is a wonderful thing, most fuel pumps put out far too much pressure ... as you have found out, your needle & seat/float not being able to hold back the spring pressure from the pump. A bigger float would help hold it but ... they are what they are.
Copper is just fine for fuel lines, better sealing and NO rust inside or out. Fuel lines should be held in clamps to avoid any vibration, diesel requires lots of clamps. Also... NO rubber line anywhere from the fuel pump on to the carb', you do not want any chance of failing .. and a FIRE. Rubber on any pressure line is not a great idea.
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