I have a 2004 F 350 6.0 with 95k miles. In the past it had 3 EGR cooler malfunctions that started with the CHECK GAUGE red light coming on and right after that the temperature starts to climb.
2 were under warranty, the 3rd cost me 9K, when the truck had 80K miles.

Last week I was in Maine and when I started the truck from a cold start the light came om and stayed on for 2 minutes. Then disappeared completely, and the temperature never rose.

I drove 400 miles with a Truck Camper (weight 4000 Lbs) to NJ, and although the light came on at the cold start, never had an issue with the light or temperature rising.

In the past the light came on when I primed the truck, and immediately after starting disappeared. But now it stays on for 2 minutes.

Shall I start to be worried???? Is something preventive I can do?

Your comments will be appreciated.

 

If I understand correctly, the main issue is that the Check Gauges light comes on after the truck fires up and stays on for a couple of minutes as the truck warms up and is not coming on when driving? Are you only looking at the factory instrument panel gauges or do you have some type of monitoring device? Highly recommended to have a smart phone app or a ScanGauge or something on a 6.0. Also, do you know if it is an early or late 2004 engine? The design changed part way through the model year and several important parts were redesigned. It might be helpful to know which engine.

 

Thanks for your input. Yes it is true the first part. I am looking at the factory panel. Nothing else. Where would I find out when the engine was assembled???
I am going to look into scan gauge.

 

There are numbers stamped on the back of the engine block just below the cylinder head but they are very hard to see. If the truck has the original Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) there may still be a sticker on the bottom with exact info also. The quickest way to tell is to look at the passenger side valve cover, just behind the alternator. In the picture below the circled item is the Injector Control Pressure Sensor (ICP). If your truck has one in this location it is a "late build", if there is only a smooth spot there it is an "early build".



If the warning light comes on the engine's computer will store a code. It will remember it for many drive cycles. Even after the light goes out. If you can get someone to pull the codes on it it will lead us in the right direction to help you troubleshoot your issue.

Without getting too long winded hopefully, there are many different qualities of code reader, unfortunately the ScanGauge is an excellent monitor but it doesn't pull codes very well. Reason being some devices only "see" generic codes used by most automotive manufacturers, these codes are general and mean basically the same thing on all the vehicles using the OBDII standard. There are also manufacturer specific codes and it takes a more expensive device to check those. Then there are pending codes, sometimes when the computer sees something wrong it doesn't alert you right away, it waits until it see the same issue a specific number of times then turns on the light. On top of all this are the different systems. Some devices can't read codes for Antilock Brake System (ABS), Transmission, or airbag system for example. So while the $39 code reader from Harbor Freight will work, it can't show you everything.

As a general rule, the smartphone apps are the best bargain if you have The phone already, just order an an OBDII adapter compatable with your phone, about $20 for most phones, and download a $5 program and you'll be all set. In addition to code reading it will also give you many monitoring functions similar to the ScanGauge.

The next best option is to go to a reliable shop and pay them to scan it. And find out what codes they get.

 

I think you guys are reading waaay to far into this simple question. If your check gauges light comes on, it's simply to get your attention because one of the gauges in the dash isn't where it's expected to be. A "check gauges" light will not store a code. When it came on in the past and was related to your egr cooler failure it was trying to get your attention to the climbing coolant temp gauge -- this time, on cold start, it's trying to direct your attention to the oil pressure gauge on the dash (top right on the cluster I believe). I'm confident that if you look close the next time on cold start you'll notice that your check gauges light goes off right after the oil pressure gauge jumps up to its "normal" range. If it's only a second or 2, I wouldn't worry about it too much -- if anything maybe a check valve in the filter housing is sticking or something in the oil pressure regulator, either way a simple and cheap fix and not nesessarily an urgency. Only affects the truck at cold start, and barely affects it then.

PS, what about an EGR cooler cost you 9K??

 

He is not monitoring anything besides the dummy gauges, your diagnosis is to don't worry be happy?
His light is staying on for two minutes.......that light is staying lit that long for a reason, one of those not being oil pressure jumping to the normal range. If that was the case it would have imploded by now unless a faulty sensor is the culprit.


If past performance/repairs is an indicator, and it was my truck, I would be digging deeper.
With that low a mileage reading for an 04, I would bet this is a case of a 6.0 "grocery getter" and it's time to look at the EGR side of things, again. Without something to read data live, it's a crapshoot at best.

 

I think df0310 is correct. I caught that he was not getting a CEL but I was thinking of the wrench light when I posted, my bad. I don't believe the "check gauges" light sets codes.