A/C block-off plate... Need some dimensions
#1
10-01-2017, 12:58 PM
A/C block-off plate... Need some dimensions
Hey fellas,
I'm tackling my a/c block-off plate project. Going to be reinstalling a non-A/C heater box in my A/C truck just so that I have defrost and a bit of heat when I need it.
Can anyone provide me some dimensions of where the large blower motor hole is in relation to the firewall seams? Looking for approximate or stock dimensions so when I mount my heater box inside the cab, it doesn't hang too low or catch or sit too high inside the cab.
Also, if you've got dimensions for the 2 heater core holes, that would help as well.
I'll eventually be running something like a Vintage Air system in my truck. So this plate & non-A/C heater box are only temporary... But they're also a necessity for cold mornings!
I'm tackling my a/c block-off plate project. Going to be reinstalling a non-A/C heater box in my A/C truck just so that I have defrost and a bit of heat when I need it.
Can anyone provide me some dimensions of where the large blower motor hole is in relation to the firewall seams? Looking for approximate or stock dimensions so when I mount my heater box inside the cab, it doesn't hang too low or catch or sit too high inside the cab.
Also, if you've got dimensions for the 2 heater core holes, that would help as well.
I'll eventually be running something like a Vintage Air system in my truck. So this plate & non-A/C heater box are only temporary... But they're also a necessity for cold mornings!
#2
10-04-2017, 12:13 PM
Bumpity bump bump.
My build thread asks the same question, but with a picture (below).
My build thread asks the same question, but with a picture (below).
Cut and trimmed as necessary where excess was apparent. I want a very tight fit to seal off the firewall.
The final result has holes drilled in it for mounting, but no provisions for the heater core or the blower motor (yet).
Next, I'll likely be trying out my welding skills. Not sure which direction I want to go yet...
Option a) Cut out the torched bits on the OEM firewall plate and basically make a "picture frame" from the new template. The OEM piece will go in the center of the template, and be stitch welded in place (flush) with the new metal.
Option b) Cut around the OEM specialty bends and simply stitch weld only those onto the new template (again, flush, /w correct recess/orientation as the original)
Before I move forward... I need someone to give me dimensions off their truck with this same heater box. There are a lot of pieces inside the cab that have to line up properly (fresh air vent to the passenger kick panel, lengths of the cables for floor/defrost functions, etc etc) in order to make this mod work properly.
The dimensions I'm looking for (see picture below) to complete this modification.
Once the front clip is back in place, the block-off plate is much too hard to remove because it's big and bulky and won't fit passed anything. I've tried lol.
The final result has holes drilled in it for mounting, but no provisions for the heater core or the blower motor (yet).
Next, I'll likely be trying out my welding skills. Not sure which direction I want to go yet...
Option a) Cut out the torched bits on the OEM firewall plate and basically make a "picture frame" from the new template. The OEM piece will go in the center of the template, and be stitch welded in place (flush) with the new metal.
Option b) Cut around the OEM specialty bends and simply stitch weld only those onto the new template (again, flush, /w correct recess/orientation as the original)
Before I move forward... I need someone to give me dimensions off their truck with this same heater box. There are a lot of pieces inside the cab that have to line up properly (fresh air vent to the passenger kick panel, lengths of the cables for floor/defrost functions, etc etc) in order to make this mod work properly.
The dimensions I'm looking for (see picture below) to complete this modification.
Once the front clip is back in place, the block-off plate is much too hard to remove because it's big and bulky and won't fit passed anything. I've tried lol.
#4
10-04-2017, 01:02 PM
If there's a better reference point to start your measurements from than what I've shown on the pictures, feel free to let me know.
For the blower motor, I just picked random spots on the seams (vert/horz). But for the heater core, there's a nice spot for the horizontal measurement where three seams line up to create a T.
Again, if you find better reference points to start from, I'm all ears. Just let me know where you start from so I can replicate them as closely as possible.
Thank you in advance!
#5
10-04-2017, 03:19 PM
#7
10-04-2017, 03:35 PM
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#8
10-04-2017, 04:49 PM
Artist I am not, collage grad with a CAD computer program, I am not. lol
It was pouring down rain while I was out in my parts lot taking a pic of the blue cab.
The 3 1/4 (blue cab) to 4" (red cab) on the L/H side (as looking) was the difference in the tape and the difference in the blue versus red cab....maybe.
Or just a combination of the rain and or the front clip being on the red cab.
Motor 3" round.
Top pinch seam to top of motor 2 3/4" to 3".
Heater core lines from L/H (as looking at it) pinch seam 13 1/4" and 15".
1" diameter lines.
L/H mount bolt/nut 7" down from top seam.
R/H mount bolt/nut 2" down from top seam.
It was pouring down rain while I was out in my parts lot taking a pic of the blue cab.
The 3 1/4 (blue cab) to 4" (red cab) on the L/H side (as looking) was the difference in the tape and the difference in the blue versus red cab....maybe.
Or just a combination of the rain and or the front clip being on the red cab.
Motor 3" round.
Top pinch seam to top of motor 2 3/4" to 3".
Heater core lines from L/H (as looking at it) pinch seam 13 1/4" and 15".
1" diameter lines.
L/H mount bolt/nut 7" down from top seam.
R/H mount bolt/nut 2" down from top seam.
#10
10-05-2017, 09:41 AM
Artist I am not, collage grad with a CAD computer program, I am not. lol
It was pouring down rain while I was out in my parts lot taking a pic of the blue cab.
The 3 1/4 (blue cab) to 4" (red cab) on the L/H side (as looking) was the difference in the tape and the difference in the blue versus red cab....maybe.
Or just a combination of the rain and or the front clip being on the red cab.
Motor 3" round.
Top pinch seam to top of motor 2 3/4" to 3".
Heater core lines from L/H (as looking at it) pinch seam 13 1/4" and 15".
1" diameter lines.
L/H mount bolt/nut 7" down from top seam.
R/H mount bolt/nut 2" down from top seam.
It was pouring down rain while I was out in my parts lot taking a pic of the blue cab.
The 3 1/4 (blue cab) to 4" (red cab) on the L/H side (as looking) was the difference in the tape and the difference in the blue versus red cab....maybe.
Or just a combination of the rain and or the front clip being on the red cab.
Motor 3" round.
Top pinch seam to top of motor 2 3/4" to 3".
Heater core lines from L/H (as looking at it) pinch seam 13 1/4" and 15".
1" diameter lines.
L/H mount bolt/nut 7" down from top seam.
R/H mount bolt/nut 2" down from top seam.
That's lots of information to go off of. Fantastic!!!
Huge reps to you.
I'll be back fabricating a heater-replica plate in no time!
Thanks!
#11
10-05-2017, 07:27 PM
#12
10-07-2017, 07:58 PM
From my build thread:
There's also the potential for me to simply make a "picture frame" with the new piece, trim the torched edges on the OEM, then butt up the new piece around the outside edges of the OEM piece (then stitch weld together). I would have to be dead on with my measurements for where everything ends up to make either scenario work.
It won't be easy, but it's do-able.
#14
10-07-2017, 08:02 PM
Definitely! I just wish I wouldn't have torched it out... the torch burnt up way too much metal and the OEM doesn't fit/seal off all the holes... Nor can I tell where it should be in relation to the A/C cab hole.