So, i have been slowly stashing money away lately. The truck is getting some new legs. Everything is tired, so its time for a rebuild. Its the 92 150 with the 5.0. Its getting a .030 kit because i know itll prolly need that since im starting to have some oil pressure issues. But while im throwing money like p diddy at a strip club, im looking at the mass air kit from fiveologyracing. Is there a cheaper or better way to get mass air?

While im doing the overhaul, i want to throw a cam in. I was looking at the comp cam 35-512-8. From what i found it works well with SD and maf, sound correct? Not looking for going crazy, just better is all. Is there a cam i can do for cheaper? Because all the roller stuff really adds up.

Wanting to do 2 things, increase my power and my mpg. Typically they dont go hand in hand, but as wore out as she is at 200k i imagine itll all bump up alot. If mileage stays in teens ill be happy with that too i guess lol

 

If you have a 5 speed, you could look through Craigslist for a harness and computer from a 5.0 5 speed stang that would probably be the cheapest route

 

I have the e4od. Other than the kits are there computers i can find for a decent price? I found the numbers before but for some reason, i didnt erite them down.

 

I would not buy rebuild parts until you tear the engine down and measure things. No sense going 0.030" over if you just need a hone, or if 0.010" will do it. Also, oil pressure is not dictated by cylinder wear. Bearings should be sized as needed. Maybe 0.001" under is all you need, or maybe regrind crank with 0.010". Don't know until you measure.

 

Well, im also going off of blow by. Im not prdering yet, just getting what prices are and setting aside money. Im just imagining finding quite a bit of wear is all.

 

You might be surprised how well the cylinder walls, crank and rods are in good shape.

I tore down a Seized up 351w, rusted valves, rusted and pitted cylinders.

Odometer showed 212,650. I had the heads redone. Honed the cylinders. Installed new rings. No boring was done. It runs like a top. I've put almost 1000 miles on it and it shows no signs of leak, blow-by, or burning oil.

I agree waiting till you tear it down and see what needs done.

 

I agree, like i said im gathering funds and setting all aside as i go. All the kits run the same price from summit. I am also swapping a cam, but im going to keep the flat tappet that it runs due to cost. Havent decided which one yet though. Which, brings my next question, with the timing gear sets, they have the single and double rollers. On a street build (just use as a DD with some towing) would there be any upsides to either one? Ive looked at a ford racing set because it comes with a top of the line chain.

I plan on just keeping it a good DD. not wanting huge power, just better breathability. Most of my power increase will come from everything just being redone. Im going for rebuilt heads, headers, maybe a head gasket that gives me a little more compression (it is .008 thinner than the typical)

While im doing this i am also rebuilding the trans because shes slipping pretty good, have that kit on the way. Found a good deal on one and also going for the trans go tugger kit. Any comments on the tugger kit? Ive only heard good from what i found.

 

Don't order head gaskets until you measure where the piston sits in the bore. If the block is decked (it should be, along with the heads), you have no idea where the piston will sit in the bore until you bolt it together. Measure deck height, then use the head gasket that will net you near 0.040" squish so you have some quench (resist detonation) without being too tight. I understand you're wanting to get the ball rolling, but based on the title of your thread, it's in your best interest not to jump the gun.

While rebuild kits may cost the same, a hone job is cheaper than a bore & hone at the machine shop. Not to mention you could re-use pistons if the ring lands are in good shape (not too opened up: can use a go-no-go gauge to check) and just re-ring it. A crank polish is cheaper than a regrind. The bearings all cost the same, but the shop labor is not. Not that you made this claim, but be aware that 0.030" overbore will not be a performance enhancement, only a block one step closer to scrap metal as compared to stock bore.


Also, 1992 302, to the best of my knowledge, will already be a roller cam & lifter equipped engine albeit a pretty lame cam. Updating to the 94'+ cam would be an improvement.

 

Well, from what i have found it is a roller ready deal eith a flat tap cam. And i understand what you mean about ordering all. Its just things i have come across and figured i would say what i know so far as options. I am not ordering engine parts yet, just getting the prices and setting that aside, if i find that wont particular part wont work wuth the set up, i will put the money into the better suited part.

I do plan on doubg pistons just because i want to have some newer stuff in there. My thought is i would be better off. My plan is to when i have a good pocket full of money, pull it all out. Engine amd trans. Break down the motor and send to machine shop to be decked, honed or bored, and have my crank inspected by someone who deals with looking for little imperfections. That is my curremt plan.

If i end up putting down...300 ill be more than happy. Not wanting crazy, just a good DD that does some towing. My typical haul weighs 2-3k lbs. And i only do that a few times a year. Looking at gearing rear end too since i run bigger tire. (33's)

 

Agree with this. You would be able to stay SD also with no problems. You could source the roller parts at a junkyard all from the same truck and not only make more power than currently. But, also have peace of mind that you aren't going to wipe a lobe on the cam during break-in.

 

that is...a really good idea i think lol

Would​​​​​​ i benefit at all from doing new rockers? Doing as mild of a build as im doing i was not sure if itd benefit me at all.

Also, are the heads any different? As in, would doing a whole head swap to a 94+ that i pull the cam from, would that net me any difference or are they the same head?

 

Rockers may give you a small bump. But the heads are still e7te heads.

 

I figured, just was not 100%. Is there something else i can look at doing to get my power up a little bit? Looking at headers, the whole rebuild kit, trans rebuild kit (to actually move the power instead of lose the power), rear gears, the cam from a 94+. Anything else that could help ne out some?

 

Well, you can do a few things. But, there is another thread here somewhere, where a member feels he is making more power with his 5.0 but sacrificed torque down low and is having to downshift more than stock. This is the nature of the 5.0, it's not well suited for a truck.
I would do what has been suggested so far, and if afterwards you don't feel it has enough pep, then look into doing a gear swap. That is what really helps the 5.0 trucks more than anything. In reality, they should never have been available with anything less than a gear from 3.73 to 4.10

 

My advice, I would drive that 5.0L into the ground while building a mild roller 5.8L.