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Well the Fedex man showed up early with my tank from Tasca so I set about installing it. I learned a few things that will help anyone else doing this mod. I drained the tank by first disconnecting the small hose from the top of the radiator to the tank. Make sure you have something to catch the small amount of fluid that may drip out when you disconnect it. Also open the fill cap to relieve the pressure and the fluid should not run out this small connection very much. I probably lost a cup or so before I figured out that the smaller hose connection leaks until you crack the fill cap and relieve the pressure.
I took a long necked funnel and attached about 3' of tubing and ran it down to an empty pretzel container to catch the fluid. I was able to dump the fluid out of the top of the tank after I removed the cap with the elbow still attached by just swiveling the tank. About 2 gallons of fluid came out.
The elbow connection slides off very easily after you pull up the retaining wire about an inch or so. It is captive so don't pull too hard or it will come off. If it does, it pops back on so don't sweat it. Everything is plug and play to a point. The elbow does not swivel and it absolutely has to in order to make a connection. If you try to twist the hose without swiveling the elbow, the hose will kink. I had to cut the retaining ring, work a small screwdriver between the hose and the elbow to break it loose and then it would swivel the 90 degrees necessary to make the connection. I used a common hose clamp to secure the hose to the elbow. The original looks to be heat shrunk and cannot be re-used.
I disconnected the vacuum lines attached to the back of the tank and set them aside, they just snap onto the new tank with the same connections. I put the tray/tank in place and one of the bolt holes would not line up. I solved this by putting the two bolts in the bottom of the tray first and then pushing the tray in place. There is a locating tab on the side that will snap in and line up the bolt holes on the side. There is one bolt hole on the side of the inner fender that is there, but wasn't threaded on mine so I threaded it for a bolt I had in the shop. Also the other bolt hole on the inside of the fender is threaded, but you will need a shorter bolt since the factory one bottoms out before it is tight due to the thinner wall of the battery tray compared to the original tank mounting hole. I reconnected everything to the new tank and refilled the fluid. It went just past the minimum level on the new tank.
That's it. Now I just need about 10' of battery cable and a few clamps. I am probably going to run the cable along the back of the engine bay rather than across the engine like the factory. I don't think it makes a difference either way. I haven't decided whether I am going to run it in parallel like the factory or run an isolator. I will most likely run an isolator as that charges the second battery after the main battery is charged and prevents the second battery from running down. It automatically connects both batteries if it senses a large draw and allows you to "jump start" the original battery if it is dead without making any additional connections. Anyway, here is it after install:
The only thing you really need is a hose clamp and 2 shorter bolts for the side mounting holes, 1 if you don't want to bother to thread the hole on the inner fender.
great photos....thanks for sharing......did you buy a dual battery cable harness assembly [ is there a part#] or are you making up your own and i am not sure on how this hooks up.....is there a diagram to show that?.....also is there a part # for the battery hold down?
I plan on using an isolator. Most of them come with wiring for a hundred bucks or so. I looked up the factory wiring harness and it's crazy expensive. Like $300+ just for wires.
I plan on using an isolator. Most of them come with wiring for a hundred bucks or so. I looked up the factory wiring harness and it's crazy expensive. Like $300+ just for wires.
wrong.....went and ordered all the right parts from the Ford dealership i bought the truck from ......what you have so far is for a 6.7 diesel......i looked it up
anyway....the complete cable assembly ....HC3Z*14300*D is $174.91
the tank assembly is ........HC3Z*8A080*D is 124.70
battery side cover is..... 7L1Z*10A682*C IS 28.62
battery top bracket is .....AL3Z*10718*A is $8.82
ford battery is.......BXT*65*850 is $139.95
parts is $477.00
NY tax $38.17
total $515.17
I got my parts today and then searched Ebay and found a whole kit that can be ordered and it comes with everything needed all i was missing was the new hose for the degas bottle
I got my parts today and then searched Ebay and found a whole kit that can be ordered and it comes with everything needed all i was missing was the new hose for the degas bottle
Got a link for the eBay kit? Know some others that may be interested in it.
wrong.....went and ordered all the right parts from the Ford dealership i bought the truck from ......what you have so far is for a 6.7 diesel......i looked it up
anyway....the complete cable assembly ....HC3Z*14300*D is $174.91
the tank assembly is ........HC3Z*8A080*D is 124.70
battery side cover is..... 7L1Z*10A682*C IS 28.62
battery top bracket is .....AL3Z*10718*A is $8.82
ford battery is.......BXT*65*850 is $139.95
parts is $477.00
NY tax $38.17
total $515.17
just waiting on parts to get the job done
Looks to me , if you order a new Superduty, $210 for dual batteries is a no brainer!
Well i got the tank installed Friday and looked at the harness listed above that i ordered and its not the right one. I ordered the .HC3Z*14300*D and its not the battery to battery harness that i needed .
I just ordered my 2018 gasser with the dual battery option. I plan on a stereo, air compressor, aux lights, and a winch...along with anything else I think to add....so I figured for $200 I couldn't go wrong.
CAUTION! anyone using the part list above, it dose not have the right part number for the battery to battery used in the Medium duty set up. The one listed if for the heavy duty set up not for the 6.2.
I have been told its an Hc3z -14300-C not the D listed above.
Well..... I started this thread months ago.... U guys saved me big time.
I ordered the new tray/ expansion tank months ago and finally got around t installing. I was a lost cause when it came to dealing with the 90 on the coolant hose. But, with a quick search I found my own thread.
Perfect..... Cut the hose band , rotated the elbow, went back with a standard hose clamp. Well for me it wasn't that easy, had to work a little to get the elbow rotated. And, I had to pick up a hose clamp in route to a cocktail party. But I got back on it this AM and all is good.
But, a compressor is going in the battery tray. I took a dremel with a plastic cutting disc and cut most of the front of the tray out to help make room for the compressor. I will get my breaker, 8 gauge with lugs and 60 amp relay delivered tomorrow and should have it all finished up tomorrow evening.
I already have 1 compressor and 5 gallon tank mounted to frame rail. Pressured everything up today using the single compressor and all is good. Going to maintain a 145psi system primarily for maintenance air needs. Should have plenty for an impact.
Anyway...... Thanks for all the responses!!! Made my day!!!
So... what ended up being the right part # for the battery to battery connection? I'm considering doing this mod on my 2017 6.2L DRW. I do have snowplow/camper package and the XXHD alternator.
Looking in to adding a second battery but the factory Ford battery tray is nowhere to be found at what you guys were paying ($95). Everywhere I've checked it's going for over $250. Must be a popular mod that they jacked the price up.
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