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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Manual locking hub rebuild

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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 10:18 PM
  #1  
canadianfarmhand's Avatar
canadianfarmhand
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Manual locking hub rebuild

Background information:
-It's my old mans truck and its getting some attention to tow his boat
-1990 F250 7.3 IDI supercab long box 4x4
-Not sure if its a 44 HD or a 50 up front and am realizing its a bit of a crapshoot as to which trucks got what. From what Ive read so far the 250 diesels got 44 hd's and the super cabs got the 50's. My parts store was saying it has to do with the manufacture date. Any truth to this?
-It was manufactured in 09/09, no dualies, dual piston calipers, Front GAWR 4410 lbs.


The Issue:
-Hubs come off to replace rotors, manual locking hubs are in serviceable condition other than an unidentifiable bearing of some sort that is worn out. I'm currently looking for a parts diagram so I can be more specific.

The Question:
Do they make rebuild kits for these (original hub) or am I on the hook for a new set for $300-$400?
If no rebuild kit exists are WARN manual hubs the way to go?

Thanks for the help in advance
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 07:25 AM
  #2  
quaddriver's Avatar
quaddriver
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From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
what bearing is worn out? the sleeve bearing in the basket?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 05:27 PM
  #3  
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Willigaf
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From: Philly
An alternative to Warn is Mile Marker. Mine will get me to work in the snow...

I'm thinking your bearing, is the outer wheel bearing. Did you find it outboard of the spindle nuts? If so I would be wrong...

If you can load a pic of the hub locker someone will be able to tell what you have, most likely. I wasn't aware of a 44hd so I won't guess which you have.

If the bearing in question is the wheel bearing, you should get new inner and outer bearings and races, or cups, as some of the stores call them, with a new seal for the inside of the rotor. And since it sounds like it might all be apart it would be less of a headache to do both sides now.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 05:31 PM
  #4  
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Willigaf
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From: Philly
Sorry, also unfamiliar with factory manual hub install and components... If there's a bearing in there it's unlike the warn or mile marker hubs for sure.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 07:58 AM
  #5  
quaddriver's Avatar
quaddriver
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From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
the manual hub, using either the pinned locknut or the ratcheting locknut are easy to in/out or rebuild, Im still confused on what bearing.

the wheel bearings themselves are gimmes. generally the only time the races *need* replaced is when you had a failure or someone went bat***t torquing down the lock

but there are generally a spiral spring style keeper that holds a sleeve bearing inside the basket in place. this is a zero load bearing so it typically does not go bad, unless you have a failure (failures suck) and in that case its new hub time cua I have never even seen one as a service part.

that being said, a set of used hubs - and there are OBS junkyards everywhere - are $40 or less generally. I myself tend to have 2-3 sets each year at carlisle that I take apart, clean to bare metal, burnish the splines and reassemble with correct grease in correct locations.

I dont have one in front me me, but are the D44HD hubs the same size as the D44 hubs in the 150? arent both 3760lb axles?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 06:51 PM
  #6  
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canadianfarmhand
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The piece in question is most definitely not the outer wheel bearing. I have the bearings torqued and backed off following proper procedure. The failed component would be the zero load bearing holding everything in place that quaddriver is talking about. I am unable to track down a rebuild kit so it looks like new hubs are the answer. Thanks to everyone who tried to help out, I always find this forum to be a great resource.

Until next time,

Ryley
 
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