Oil change interval
#31
10-02-2017, 01:50 PM
If you dont drive your truck that much than once a year is good, less than 5,000 miles. I always use synthetic because its good for seals and gaskets.It is best to get them out once a month to keep the oil circulated in the motor. As for filling the filter with oil good idea if the filter is up and down. I had a car that the filter was sideways so I couldnt do that. Follow the computer and you will be fine otherwise you are just wasting money and oil. Up to each individual. I have a great relationship with a Ford parts guy and he gives me a deal on oil. Then I go to the Quick Lane guy and tell him I got the oil in the truck so it only cost me $25 for the change and about $130 for the oil.
#33
10-02-2017, 05:29 PM
Bryan, I'm with you man - may not change my brake fluid once a year but I certainly do change my oil more frequently - 5,000 miles - the purpose of the oil analysis isn't to increase my change interval, it's to see if there is anything bad turning up in the oil as an indication of something going wrong. And I do fill the filter with oil to reduce the amount of time the engine is running without oil. Not to mention I recently added an Insane Diesel oil bypass filter - and I'm still going to change the oil every 5,000 miles
#34
01-19-2018, 07:23 PM
Anyone have any hard scientific facts as proof to back up the claims that oil sitting in an oil pan with little to no use will deteriorate or draw moisture that could cause rust or engine damage?
I have a portable Honda Generator sitting in an unheated/cooled garage which can fluctuate between 110F with high humidity to 20F depending on the season, that has Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic oil in the crankcase. Last time I changed that oil was 2006. I start the generator once or twice a year just to make sure it starts and runs, drain the fuel every couple of years (I use only non-ethanol fuel) and that's it. Summer of 2016 our power went out and I ran that generator for 30hrs straight without shutting it down. If moisture was a concern that engine would of locked up after 30hrs of constant 3600rpm.
The moisture claim has got me curious. I might go pull the pan on the spare 16hp Kohler mower engine I have sitting in the shed that hasn't ran a drop of fuel in 10+ years that has a new oil and filter which I installed before placing it on the shelf. I live in a high humidity climate so if moisture is an issue I should see it.
I understand these are not automobile engines but machined steel is machined steel, and bearings are bearings, only difference would be they are smaller.
I have a portable Honda Generator sitting in an unheated/cooled garage which can fluctuate between 110F with high humidity to 20F depending on the season, that has Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic oil in the crankcase. Last time I changed that oil was 2006. I start the generator once or twice a year just to make sure it starts and runs, drain the fuel every couple of years (I use only non-ethanol fuel) and that's it. Summer of 2016 our power went out and I ran that generator for 30hrs straight without shutting it down. If moisture was a concern that engine would of locked up after 30hrs of constant 3600rpm.
The moisture claim has got me curious. I might go pull the pan on the spare 16hp Kohler mower engine I have sitting in the shed that hasn't ran a drop of fuel in 10+ years that has a new oil and filter which I installed before placing it on the shelf. I live in a high humidity climate so if moisture is an issue I should see it.
I understand these are not automobile engines but machined steel is machined steel, and bearings are bearings, only difference would be they are smaller.
FWIW, I bought a old Chrysler that had been setting for a couple of years. When I drained the oil you could see a dark strip in the oil that came from the bottom. I dropped the pan to find about 1/4 inch or so of loose dirt. That would have been picked up in the oil pump immediately upon start up. I'm not sure the oil filter would have trapped it enough to avoid damage to the engine. FWIW.
#36
01-20-2018, 06:04 AM
Laughing Gas
#37
01-20-2018, 09:44 AM
Don't you know that's WRONG because (non-technical argument)! Your (insert part related to [tires]) will fail earlier now and you'll be out (outrageous dollar amount) because of your ineptness and lack of consideration for my (expert credential) and (personal experiences).
Please avail yourself of my internet forum knowledge, concede your ignorance, and rep me to show all the other schleps here that I am an Internet Forum Wizard of Great Repute
Please avail yourself of my internet forum knowledge, concede your ignorance, and rep me to show all the other schleps here that I am an Internet Forum Wizard of Great Repute
#38
01-20-2018, 11:12 AM
#39
01-20-2018, 02:03 PM
Changing air....no....use nitrogen....or not.Air molocules will escape and contract during cold and leave behind moisture.Nitrogen has bigger molocues so it’s harder to escape. Confusing.... Air is 80% nitrogenSo if the non big roger molocues escape...refil with air...then more non nitrogen molocues escape....refill again...and eventually you will have pure nitrogen anyway.So refill with air. Save your nitrogen money for oil.
#40
01-21-2018, 03:33 AM
#41
01-21-2018, 07:21 PM
Anyone have any hard scientific facts as proof to back up the claims that oil sitting in an oil pan with little to no use will deteriorate or draw moisture that could cause rust or engine damage?
I have a portable Honda Generator sitting in an unheated/cooled garage which can fluctuate between 110F with high humidity to 20F depending on the season, that has Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic oil in the crankcase. Last time I changed that oil was 2006. I start the generator once or twice a year just to make sure it starts and runs, drain the fuel every couple of years (I use only non-ethanol fuel) and that's it. Summer of 2016 our power went out and I ran that generator for 30hrs straight without shutting it down. If moisture was a concern that engine would of locked up after 30hrs of constant 3600rpm.
The moisture claim has got me curious. I might go pull the pan on the spare 16hp Kohler mower engine I have sitting in the shed that hasn't ran a drop of fuel in 10+ years that has a new oil and filter which I installed before placing it on the shelf. I live in a high humidity climate so if moisture is an issue I should see it.
I understand these are not automobile engines but machined steel is machined steel, and bearings are bearings, only difference would be they are smaller.
I have a portable Honda Generator sitting in an unheated/cooled garage which can fluctuate between 110F with high humidity to 20F depending on the season, that has Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic oil in the crankcase. Last time I changed that oil was 2006. I start the generator once or twice a year just to make sure it starts and runs, drain the fuel every couple of years (I use only non-ethanol fuel) and that's it. Summer of 2016 our power went out and I ran that generator for 30hrs straight without shutting it down. If moisture was a concern that engine would of locked up after 30hrs of constant 3600rpm.
The moisture claim has got me curious. I might go pull the pan on the spare 16hp Kohler mower engine I have sitting in the shed that hasn't ran a drop of fuel in 10+ years that has a new oil and filter which I installed before placing it on the shelf. I live in a high humidity climate so if moisture is an issue I should see it.
I understand these are not automobile engines but machined steel is machined steel, and bearings are bearings, only difference would be they are smaller.
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