Well, I don't have that black gasket. I bought from 2 places... Mike's Carb and JEGS and both only had one orange gasket which is smaller and touches one of the holes... If i had that black one I think I'd be good.

 

The PV gaskets that I remember had small tabs on the inside to keep it positioned away from the holes at the bottom of the valve shaft. They may have done away with those tabs. You can buy the correct one here for 59 cents. Enrichment Valve Gasket - Power Valve

 

There are all kinds of gaskets that have been tried on PVs. These are three that I accumulated. The red fiber and black "lobed" one came in rebuild kits. The nylon one I got from Vintage Speed, supposed to be the hot stuff.

I think the lobed one is what Pete is describing?

 

Ross, I have the red fiber ones. But the gasket actually hits against the holes in Power Valve (since they are on the radius as you specified) so i thought it might be an issue.

Also, I've always had a somewhat wet looking throttle body, with very small gas leak I think through the gasket between throttle body and the middle portion especially after running a while (after getting hot). I just noticed at the edge of the middle portion (PV and fuel bowl) where the 2 screws in rear that holds the arm for choke cable, it appears there are old metal pieces of gasket. I can't get it off, and it's metal, and it looks like it should be there because both sides match in shape vs. random... But it looks like that makes the 2 pieces not mate correctly and probably the cause of the leaking? I'm thinking now because of this I have a vacuum leak there, and could be part of the problem? I guess I could grind that down?

I'm nearing the point here of buying one of those $30 ebay carbs...

 

Got a picture of the metal gasket? If there is an air leak there it would directly cause PV problems.

 

Not since i cleaned it. But this is the area. It really looks like the outer edges (outlined by the blue marks) have leftover gasket on it... It's definitely raised. And when i scrape it, it's definitely metal.



Ok, edited here because image above is not what I was talking about, but it is mated to where I was talking about The image below is what i was talking about. It's on both sides of the middle piece, power valve side.

 

One thing you can do is soak that entire carb body in a good carburetor cleaner, or maybe a crock pot and simple green. Everything needs to be clean, all the tiny orifice and idle air bleeds. Then blow it out dry with shop air. Gasket surfaces need to be flat, you can check for warpage. A piece of plate glass with some emery paper glued on makes for a decent flat surface to sand that base. Use a figure 8 pattern. Can't be any vacuum leaks or it will never run right.

 

Never seen anything like that before. It definitely needs to be flat there. I'd run a file across until it's even all the way across.

 

Tedster, this picture is before i cleaned. It's been dipped and looks real nice now. I blew out all holes with compressed air. But this was the only picture i had that showed the bulge I was talking about, and you can't tell it's metal in this pictures. It is weird.

I'll definitely take the advice on flattening it out. I have a file and will try some light sanding too.

 

That carb needs to be disassembled and soaked in cleaner. It's obvious the throttle shaft has not.been removed. The butterflies still have.the screws peened over and the crud on the shaft. Do as they say and flatten the mating surface. It will.never work like that , period. All those little passages in that bottom half need to have a tip cleaner run up through them. Just doesn't look like a very good if any cleaning as stated in an earlier post!.

 

Ok, I missed the part about it being a "before" picture. My apology on that. However, it will never work with them boogers on that surface. Needs to be roughed down with a file then flattened in my mind.

 

Another piece of info... Starting cold it just won't start, even with choke pulled out. I have to press gas all the way down (more air?) and keep choke in, then keep foot on throttle to let it warm up. It will only idle well after warm. Starting is the procedure to warm start, but then it seems like not enough fuel after started, but then it runs better with the leanest setting on throttle linkage when warm at idle.

When starting this way i smell a bunch of gas though, i'm sure i'm flooding it.

 

You may know this already Brian but in these days of fuel injection we sometimes forget or never learned the correct way to start a Ford carbureted engine cold. First with the choke on put your foot to the floor full throttle with the key off then let up to closed throttle and then down to half throttle and turn the key to engage the starter. A properly tuned engine should start right up.

 

Pete, I haven't tried that particular way exactly. I normally give it 2-3 pumps all the way to the floor then start.

That said, it used to start right up great with the choke in. Ran great for 2 weeks, came back and it was hesitating, then started messing with timing/carb and it's in a bad state now. I guess you gotta learn somehow! I'll see if I can get a friend over here that helped me originally and knows all this stuff. Most people my age (like me) have never even owned a carbureted vehicle!

 

That carb sounds like it has gotten trash in it and is fouled or the accelerator pump is faulty. I always keep a rebuilt carb as a spare to eliminate the carb as a trouble point in diagnosing an engine problem. A rebuild carb and fuel pump can solve one whole side of the engine triangle ( fuel, air, and spark ).

JB