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I believe for a manual transmission, you should be at about 750 rpm, I will have to look that up.
The reason I ask, if you have a vacuum leak for example, this will lean out your idle, and the EECM tries to compensate which may give you an erratic idle.
Okay that's good to know it should be around 625-675, thank you.
A normal cold engine start-up is about 16-1800 rpm for 30 seconds, then a drop to 1000-1200 for another 30 seconds, then a gradual decrease to proper Idle rpm. Is this what you have ?[/QUOTE]
Yes that sounds about right for the cold engine start-up rpm sequence. It just seemed to idle sort of erratically once it warmed up, but that was only with the timing set to 10 degrees and the spout plugged in.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
A side note; Yeah, your timing is not normal, and this will have to be brainstormed before this is all over.
Timing not right? I figured it was. When setting the timing to 10 degrees and plugging the spout in, the timing advances to 30 degrees (the manual that came with my code reader said it should do this). I figured that's why the guy I bought the truck from had the timing set to 30 degrees without the spout connector plugged in. Does that not make sense?
“Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) signal, which is used by the EECM and TFI to provide base timing information, determine engine speed (rpm) and crankshaft position.”
ACT – Air Charge Temperature sensor – in the intake manifold measuring intake air temperature.
BP - Barometric pressure
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor – sits on top of your EGR Valve
Edited;
"The reason I ask, if you have a vacuum leak for example, this will lean out your idle, raise your idle, and the EECM tries to compensate which may give you an erratic idle."
Your Drawing in Post #56, shows that the GY/Y is connected to Fuse Link (W) most likely up by your Starter Solenoid connections. You will need to check if the Fuse Link is blown, or if it is still connected.
There may be other electronics feeding off of Fuse Link (W) as well.
QUOTE]
Yes, one of those, there are about 6 of them, you will have to find the right one.
Yes, one of those, there are about 6 of them, you will have to find the right one.
I'm assuming I can test those by checking voltage on both sides to see if its sending power? I didn't see anyway to open it up to check a fuse. Unless by fusable link it just means that it connects one wire to three
Edited;
"The reason I ask, if you have a vacuum leak for example, this will lean out your idle, raise your idle, and the EECM tries to compensate which may give you an erratic idle."
I will double check my lines the best I can, can't you use starting fluid by spraying around the lines and seeing if the rpms increase?
“Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) signal, which is used by the EECM and TFI to provide base timing information, determine engine speed (rpm) and crankshaft position.”
ACT – Air Charge Temperature sensor – in the intake manifold measuring intake air temperature.
BP - Barometric pressure
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor – sits on top of your EGR Valve
Thank you! I will look into these today. Now i forgot to mention, the EGR has been capped off so that shouldn't come into play, correct? As far as adjusting the timing and effecting how the motor is running?
Now i forgot to mention, the EGR has been capped off so that shouldn't come into play, correct? As far as adjusting the timing and effecting how the motor is running?
If the EVP is putting out a normal "Closed Valve" voltage, no worries.
Did you leave the vacuum line attached ? If not you may get a Code 33, but nothing to worry about, just a code you live with, capping off the EGR.
I'm assuming I can test those by checking voltage on both sides to see if its sending power? I didn't see anyway to open it up to check a fuse. Unless by fusable link it just means that it connects one wire to three
Yeah, just got to probe the wire on each side of the F-Link. sometimes the F-Link includes the entire Link wire, (14 Gauge), it could burn out anywhere along the link.
Yes, some F-Links connect to multiple wires, and those connections are just buried under some tape down the harness in places you would not expect.
Yeah, just got to probe the wire on each side of the F-Link. sometimes the F-Link includes the entire Link wire, (14 Gauge), it could burn out anywhere along the link.
Yes, some F-Links connect to multiple wires, and those connections are just buried under some tape down the harness in places you would not expect.
Well I traced what I thought to be the correct GY/Y wire yesterday all the way to under the steering column only to find out that it ran to the clutch and fuse panel...im assuming that wasn't the right GY/Y wire it got dark so I couldn't start my tracing over but I'll hopefully get a chance this weekend. Do you have any idea of where I should be looking for this specific F-link? The one in the picture went to the alternator and the only other ones I've found were under the steering column and didn't not connect to the GY/Y wire. I assumed the wire would go to the ignition since it is only on in the RUN position
10-12-2017, 07:58 AM
it got dark so I couldn't start my tracing over but I'll hopefully get a chance this weekend. Do you have any idea of where I should be looking for this specific F-link? The one in the picture went to the alternator and the only other ones I've found were under the steering column and didn't not connect to the GY/Y wire. I assumed the wire would go to the ignition since it is only on in the RUN position