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I can well understand impatient. My late Father used to often say "Lord give me patience, and by god I want it RIGHT NOW!"
It's not just Ford, but any of these modern engines pose a challenge to work on without some more sophisticated tools to figure out what they are doing. With the integrated intelligence of the computer, it helps to see what its 'inputs' look like. Especially when it hasn't thrown codes yet.
Basically - it is a VERY solid engine that has some highly misunderstood, and often overlooked, aspects. Not trying to pick at the wounds, but With the work already done, if you have misfires I would have to suggest you start OVER on the plug job. Replace them all (including new boots and springs) in an absolutely 'clean room' fashion. Cleaning carbon deposits out of the spark plug holes beyond threads, keeping greasy finger prints and contaminates OFF the plug ceramic, using some dielectric grease on boot ends, and replace ANY COP plugs that have broken clips.
If you still are having phaser symptoms - I would have to ask if you removed the oil pan and cleaned out debris from broken guides.
Aside from those two matters, I would be looking for technical data readings for guidance.
Good luck - Your Ford has many good miles left in it.
2007 F150 5.4 3v, I can start it and idles fine, except ticking pecking from what seems to be the passenger side. Driving it up to 30 mph then it misfires and backfires and won't run much over 30 mph. Truck has 163k on it. I have replaced, spark plugs, coils, cam phaser solenoids, cam phasers all with OEM Ford parts, still doing the same thing. I'm guessing probably timing chains and guides, or a bad lifter or rocker arm. Has anyone else had this issue?
Normally when your Lash adjusters and or roller followers fail the engine will simply tick, sounding exactly like a bad lifter in an older style engine. However, it will not misfire like that. Once removed they are easily diagnosed, even full of oil a bad Lash adjuster will compress by hand, a good one will not. The roller followers have needle bearings that you can feel are loose or not rotating smoothly. Check to see if you have any lean codes, if you get a bank 1 sensor 1 code change it. It also sounds as if your VCT solenoid may need replacing, it's very simple to change, it's right on top of the passenger valve cover if I remember correctly. You can test it by unplugging it and applying 12 volts to the contact. Check out YouTube, I'm sure there are videos on this. Best of luck.
I'm just curious if the OP is still running that "new engine". And who it came from, and who put it in, and what else was done. Guessing since they only posted on one thread and it was from 2017, they either still have it running good, or sold it.
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