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I'm new to the site, didn't see a forum for posting questions like this so I hope I'm posting in the right one.
I'm in the market for a 99-01 4 Dr Explorer. I've had 2 Sports (97 and 99) and currently leasing an 02 XLT. Now I want to buy. After test driving a V8, I'm not going back to the V6 SOHC.
I'm looking at 2 right now, both from private parties. One is a 99 XLT AWD with 57k miles on it, original owner traded in, the current owner had it since. They are seeling because of money issues. It has Ford Premium ESP for 2 more years or 17k miles. Story checks out, I ran it on CARFAX. Vehicle drives okay, has a few small issues like broke parking cable, rear wiper doesn't seat correctly, center console vibrates if rear air is turned on max, some surface rust on the frame rails. He's getting the first 2 fixed before selling.
The second one has a more checkered past. It's a 2000 Limited with 65k miles, was originally a lease then corporate fleet vehicle (may be the same company, I don't know how vehicle titling works). Current owner bought it in Oct 2002 to use through the winter while he restored a Mustang. He only put a couple thousand miles on it going to school. He said the dealership told him it's a personal car for a manager at the dealership, I can't confirm it. That can be good or bad. I know some places will have people pamper manager's lease cars like wash/wax, oil changes, just so the manager will never end up with a problem car. On the other hand, they could have treat it like a lease/rental car. I'm driving this one tonight.
Neither vehicle has had the 60k maintenance. Is the V8 pretty much bullet proof? How about the AWD system? Any specific things to look for, like leaky transmission cooler line, etc?
Both costs $12000, both about the same milage, but one is older with warranty and the other has an unknown past. The limited is a good buy just because it's rarer and well equipped so resale may be better. But the XLT has warranty. We don't drive a lot miles, so the 17k warranty will last the next 2 years.
I would go with the Limited. It will have a much better trade-in or re-sell value in the future. The Limiteds also have some very nice toys. You should also check the numbers at kbb.com
Well it's a moot point now. I went to look at the Limited today, and what a piece of junk it was. The guy didn't take of it at all. He only put 5000 miles on it in the last 10 months, but it's dirty everywhere, cracked leather, dirt on carpet, passenger side running board was bent, cracked bumper, bald tires, oil, even up the side of the door. It drove fine except for some thumping I'm guessing either tires or rotors. Then I checked the underbody and found a crossmember mounting point bent. Looked some more and saw the transmission cooler was smashed up against the steering rack, AC condenser or radiator was also bent back like someone ran onto a parking curb.
I told him if he wanted to sell it for $7500 to give me a call. At least it made the decision not to buy an easy one.
That is so sad. I purchased a 95 Limited just two months ago to replace a 97 that was totalled. I was looking for a 98 or 99 when I found the 95 owned by a private seller. It had been garaged from day one. It looked like new, inside and out. It even smelled like new. The only problem it had was it didn't have the power or gas mileage of the 97. I replace the plug wires, cleaned the MAF and the IAC, and ran some fuel jet cleaner through it. It now runs better than the 97. Plus the gas mileage went from 15 to 18.
I have both a limited and AWD as you can see by my sig. The limited is very nice with all the toys and whatnot, but the AWD system is fantastic on slick surfaces. It is like the truck is glued to the road. I had a chance to take it to Tenn. last Christmas and in the snow it was great. I don't think you would regret either one.
BTW The limited gets about 18.5 around town and the AWD gets about 16.5 mpg. But its soooo nice to have that 5.0
well, you probably won't be doing good buying a used car that has been leased or corporate fleet because usually those cars come back trashed,, (no oil changes, no air / pcv filters changed).... take my advice ,, as I have 2 parents that have leased typcially Ford vehicles their whole life and all they did was Gas - N - Go the WHOLE time regardless of gas mileage. My mom's last explorer was a 2000 XLT V6 and it was getting under 10mpg on highway driving with gas prices in the $1.60s!!!!
I went to look at a '99 Limited with 67k miles on the odo for $10300. It's a one man dealer who fixes up auctions buys. He doesn't have a lot, just works out of this little building in an industrial area. It was an insurance total, but the he showed me the sheet metal and it was just the skin to the driver side doors and running board. I had him take off the drive door trim; the side protection beams inside the door is unaffected. Hood is original, radiator support is original and showed no damage. It came to him without a fender, bumper fascia, or grille. No structural damage to the frame, door opening, powertrain, etc. Engine runs great, paint job is excellent, interior is also in excellent condition. The seat lumbar support don't to work on either seat and the radio doesn't light up. Radio does work, though. The driver lumbar motor pumps but doesn't seem to fill, but passenger lumbar motor doesn't run. Is either one easily fixable?
The downside is I found on CARFAX that the accident was with a ditch and it was a fleet vehicle. At the auction site they bent the fuel tank. Obviously no leaks, but I don't know what the longterm implications of a bent tank is.
All the above sounds serious, but the car definitely drove great. I did not find any leaks around engine head, transfer case, transmission. But for $10300 I feel like I can have the fuel tank replaced and still be a great deal. What do y'all think?
I'd avoid it like the plaque. In my opinion, the vehicle has 3 strikes.... (1)leased vehicle, (2) went thru auction, (3) was totalled. I suggest you keep looking. You'd be better off buying something with higher miles and a cleaner history. The best time to buy a used vehicle is when you don't need one. That way you have time to shop around for a good deal.
I'd avoid it like the plaque. In my opinion, the vehicle has 3 strikes.... (1)leased vehicle, (2) went thru auction, (3) was totalled. I suggest you keep looking. You'd be better off buying something with higher miles and a cleaner history. The best time to buy a used vehicle is when you don't need one. That way you have time to shop around for a good deal.
I agree with Marragtop. An insurance company would not likely total the vehicle with the damage you describe. Likely there was other damage you are not being told about. I'd keep looking if it were me.
If you are buying private party, be sure to check all the maintenance receipts. Dealers really can't pass on this information since 1) they usually don't know the history of the car they are selling, or 2)they can't share maintenance records from the previous owner because they may contain personal information.
I agree with the others. Run away from anything that's been totaled by the insurance company unless you can get the vehicle for 50% of retail price.
Originally posted by marragtop I'd avoid it like the plaque. In my opinion, the vehicle has 3 strikes.... (1)leased vehicle, (2) went thru auction, (3) was totalled.
Couldn't say it any better! When people use fleet cars or rentals they abuse them.......not saying owners don't sometimes but ya have better odd's that it's been taken care of. Auction cars are like fixer uppers in the real estate business........If it's really that good of a deal........it won't ever make it to market! There is 100's of small time dealers that do nothing but go to autions,buy vehicles,and turn um around.......they do whats nessescery to sell the car/truck and get thru the warranty period (if there is one). My dad always said if the deals to good to be true....it is! I would buy private (more homework)and you'll get a better deal.....you won't get a warranty but there are lot's of cars that are "a" title with low mileage, that have been taken care of that are for sale.My second choice (if your not mechanical) would be to go to a local dealer, buy a trade in that they will warranty and pay a little more........at least you'll have peace of mind! It cracks me up watching late night TV and ya see a fly-by-night auction commercial saying what good deals are waiting for the public......If the deals were that good why doesn't a dealer come in, scoop them up and re-sell them? All thats left at those places is the trash that dealers passed on or unloaded too! There is exceptions but I wouldn't take the chance! Hope I didn't offend any auctioneer's
.........Exception to the above........Used Dealers that buy strictly lease turn in's and will run carfax etc.......and give a good warranty. I went that route once or twice.............the last one I bought the dealer let me see/drive vehicles that just came in.....and weren't detailed or even insp. (state)etc.... It showed me they had nothing to hide. also they had carfax run auto. on everything they sold! I noticed that none of the truck's/SUV's had hitches..........a mechanic told me later when I got an oil change (for free) that theysteered clear of any vehicle that had been used for towing.......said it cut down on their problems. They also gave me 10 day's to drive with a full refund if not happy(every last penny.....tags,tax's etc...) plus a 6/6000 warrenty.
* hope this cuts down on my hate mail from dealers!
How do you know which dealers deal exclusively with lease returns and are reputable? I thought franchise dealerships get first pick on the cream of the crop trade-ins and lease returns. The rest they send to auction. "Private" used car lots then get their cars at the auction from the dealer rejects. That's not to say that dealer inspections can miss something and get a bad vehicle or let a good one go to auction.