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Upfitter switches

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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 08:54 PM
  #1  
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Upfitter switches

To start off I know switch #'s 5 and 6 can be set to hot at all times, not through the key. What I want to know is there anyone that has ever figured out how to make any of the other switches hot at all times? I want to wire my dash cam to one but it doesn't need a 40 amp circuit. I want to be able to switch it off when at home, but leave it running so it goes to parking mode when I am out.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 02:05 AM
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How can Upfitter Switches 5 & 6 be set to hot all the time - using FORScan?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by wb6anp
To start off I know switch #'s 5 and 6 can be set to hot at all times, not through the key. What I want to know is there anyone that has ever figured out how to make any of the other switches hot at all times? I want to wire my dash cam to one but it doesn't need a 40 amp circuit. I want to be able to switch it off when at home, but leave it running so it goes to parking mode when I am out.
I believe this would take a little rewiring inside of the upfitter fuse box, you could certainly replace the fuse with a smaller one if that's what bothers you unless you have another need for that circuit.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MagicMtnDan
How can Upfitter Switches 5 & 6 be set to hot all the time - using FORScan?
I believe the fuses for those circuits have 3 terminals in the block, by moving the fuses over it then gives you hot all the time circuits
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MagicMtnDan
How can Upfitter Switches 5 & 6 be set to hot all the time - using FORScan?
Here ya go... FORscan not required!

HTH,
Jim / crewzer
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 08:27 AM
  #6  
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11 F250 I was able to go into the fuse box and manipulate with a jumper fuse from a hot constant over to the upfitter fuse. Not saying it's correct but that's what work for me being none of the four upfitters were constant hot on the 11 model I was able to have all four hot so I can run my caution lights without the truck running
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rwilimo
I believe this would take a little rewiring inside of the upfitter fuse box, you could certainly replace the fuse with a smaller one if that's what bothers you unless you have another need for that circuit.
I have one used for one Ham radio so far, want to put in another for HF they take about 30 amps when running full power at 100 watts.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 09:41 AM
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I've been considering something similar myself but I was going to go a different route. I have been looking for a multi-switch panel to wire into 5 or 6. That way the up fitter powers the switch panel and then on the panel I can select what I want to run.

The total for devices on the controller would then be under 40 amp obviously.

Similar to this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...RoCVZAQAvD_BwE

Or this:
https://www.offroadelements.com/swit...ting-hardware/

Or maybe even just the 11-16 Super Duty up fitter switches added somewhere on the console.

Still gotta research this some more.

GF
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 09:52 AM
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 12:03 PM
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I plug my dashcam into the full time 12 volt power outlet in the console.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 12:15 PM
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I am sure not all dash cams are created equal. I only know how mine is configured. Three wires involved. A constant b+, b+ accessory, and ground. My dash cam will automatically enter parking mode when accessory power is removed. I have accessory power supplied by an upfitter. Dash cam will remain powered in parking mode until vehicle power is lower than 12.3 volts or user specified.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 12:31 PM
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what id like to do is disable the parking mode when I am home, it doesn't need to be on while there. But may end up going that way since I don't want to use my 40 amp switch. Just bought the Blackvue DR 750S-2ch. we have the 650s in the wifes car, with that accessory, it has its own switch. I was just trying to find more uses for the upfitters.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 01:16 PM
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Although I run my dashcam on #2, if I wanted it on full-time like the OP, I'd just use #5 or #6 as the dashcam already has an inline fuse so the fuse rating on the upfitter box wouldn't come into play. If, however, I was running a snow plow or other operation where I needed #5 and #6 then I'd consider the matrix idea in Post #8, otherwise follow post #9 until you need 3 devices on all the time. Less is often more.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 04:03 PM
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Hoked it up to switch 6 for now. Here they are.
front

Rear
 
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 08:10 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by SDcrewzer
Here ya go... FORscan not required!

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

Excellent info crewser! I have a company 18 duty on order and like to run my roof beacon light when the truck is off. Thanks for the info
 
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