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I'm from Moscow Pa, and I'm in the Scranton Region of the AACA. Today, I found the front and rear National grease seals on e-bay and ordered them. Thanks Bill for the heads up on the parts houses, I'll call them tomorrow to see if they have the king pin kits. There a little lose and as long as i have it apart, I'd like to rebuild them too.
Bill, would you have a number for the king pin and bushing set? And thanks again for the help. Ben
Well, new seals are in, and brake shoes relined, now, anyone know where to get the two front brake hoses? Tried Parts Geek, said they had them, sent the wrong ones. NAPA has no idea, and looking online hasn't worked either. The inlet on the cylinder is the same size as the bolt that holds the brass block onto the master cylinder, so it's pretty big.
A part number would be a big help if anyone has it. Thanks
Just have them made up special. They don't cost any more. Maybe less. There's a guy on eBay named Goodbrakes or Brake Hoses Unlimited who will set you up, if they aren't in stock. I'm sure there are others, but they did me up right.
Examine the ends of your old hoses where they fit into the wheel cylinder. There is an odd adapter that I believe firmly attaches itself to the hose with rust. It has been a long time, but I do not remember the hoses being hard to find.
Edit: If you have not replaced all steel lines, you may want to consider it. My truck was essentially rust free but the steel line to the rear end was rusted at the clamps to frame.
Agree with Ray on the fuel lines. Kind of a pain to bend and install, but well worth it. Thing about brake fluid, is that it is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the air. Since these old systems are ventilated, moisture gets into the cylinders and lines by this hygroscopic action, and corrosion begins literally from the inside out. The old manuals suggested flushing out the old brake fluid every year or two with new to get rid of the accumulated moisture. Most folks didn't mess with the chore of bleeding their brakes that often. I have seen brake lines that looked pretty good on the outside, but paper thin and eaten away from the inside.
I bought all my hoses from my local parts house that gets their parts from the O'Reilly Auto Parts warehouse. There is a fitting adapter that screws into the wheel cylinder that the hose screws into. You MUST save those from your old wheel cylinders as they are not available. Posted above is a pic of the fittings.
Mark
Brake fluid is supposed to absorb moisture, that's the whole point, some folks reading that may misunderstand, Ray. (If it didn't, it would boil at high temperatures, freeze solid in cold temperatures, and cause severe localized corrosion in the lowest point in the system where moisture pools.) It does need to be changed periodically. Fresh brake fluid flush will restore the wet boiling point and replenish corrosion inhibitors.
Yes, I'm planing on changing the whole system. The farmer that had the truck, had the brakes fail, a long time ago by the looks of things, and used the emergency brake to stop with. He even removed the release button from the handle so it doesn't lock. I'm stuck now, unless someone has the brake hose adapter they'll sell me, or let me know where to find one. It's always something.
Put a request on the parts wanted section here and use the picture of the parts Mark posted above. There have been enough of these larger trucks parted out that someone must have saved these adapters or have a parts truck out in the back 40. I looked for part numbers at one time with no results.
Ray is talking about the outside of the brake lines rusting where the clamps hold moisture.
Yes, Ross, that was my intent. Thanks. Perhaps I need to be more specific, take longer and type more.
I could even write a bit about brake fluid being hygroscopic.
I could say but we are talking, typing about brakes so we're on topic.
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