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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 10:06 AM
  #61  
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Loving it. I have an FE c6 in my '75 Super cab sitting at my dad's in northern Wyoming. Don't know if you are still driving with the leaking c6 but I have no plans to use mine.

I have not seen frame notches like that before, who makes those?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 10:33 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by hivoltj
Loving it. I have an FE c6 in my '75 Super cab sitting at my dad's in northern Wyoming. Don't know if you are still driving with the leaking c6 but I have no plans to use mine.

I have not seen frame notches like that before, who makes those?
I pulled the c6 and had the case welded until I decide on a permanent drivetrain for the truck.

The notches are from art morrison. They are 2x4 mendrel bent, "the hard way" is what they call them.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 06:04 PM
  #63  
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Good looking truck! You set it up with a great stance.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 06:06 PM
  #64  
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 06:11 PM
  #65  
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 08:46 AM
  #66  
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Based on that last picture you used a chain to pull the 4.6, like I did....and smashed the valve cover as well, like I did. Very nice work to slam it.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 08:59 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by DerekL
Based on that last picture you used a chain to pull the 4.6, like I did....and smashed the valve cover as well, like I did. Very nice work to slam it.

Not exactly. I picked this up from a wreck and the valve cover made contact with the brake booster in the 05 grand marquis it was in.

thanks for the compliment!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 09:53 AM
  #68  
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I was going through all of the photos in your thread just to review. I noticed with your steering shaft you have a straight run, nothing to collapse in the event of a front end hit. I've attached a picture of mine, I used the CV joints at the bottom and a GM Suburban intermediate shaft. In the pic it's just tack till final fitting but together it allows about 3-4 inches of collapse. I know it would be a PITA to change but consider the safety factor.

Enjoying your build, Pat

 
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 12:24 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by F100 '64
I was going through all of the photos in your thread just to review. I noticed with your steering shaft you have a straight run, nothing to collapse in the event of a front end hit. I've attached a picture of mine, I used the CV joints at the bottom and a GM Suburban intermediate shaft. In the pic it's just tack till final fitting but together it allows about 3-4 inches of collapse. I know it would be a PITA to change but consider the safety factor.

Enjoying your build, Pat

Thanks Pat!

I've seen other builds where people used a collapsible shaft that can be picked up from summit. I think I am going to go with one of those when it goes back together. I wasn't aware those were an option the first time I threw the truck back together. This time, I'm going back and building what I wanted to the first time.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 02:20 PM
  #70  
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The pictures of the frame mod are they to get the truck lower? If so how much lower did you go? I'm thinking about just notching the frame to make sit down over the CV frontend and adding to the top of the frame. Your build is awesome! Keep up the great work! I just got my front end all cut apart yesterday.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 02:36 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Bigfreeb
The pictures of the frame mod are they to get the truck lower? If so how much lower did you go? I'm thinking about just notching the frame to make sit down over the CV frontend and adding to the top of the frame. Your build is awesome! Keep up the great work! I just got my front end all cut apart yesterday.



Thanks man! Yes, the whole idea was to get the vic front end recessed in the frame 2 more inches. I have seen where people did 3, even 4", but you would start getting into the cab mounts if you went over 2" based on how far back you would have to cut to clear the lower control arm trailing arm mount. 2" was just perfect for avoiding the cab mounts, as well as not getting into the floor to clear the trans on the 4.6. If you are running anything other than a 4.6, you may want to consider how much floor would need to be cut to clear the trans. I know my 360/c6 sat farther back, and would not have allowed this cut without also cutting the floor.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 04:15 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by danman223
Thanks Pat!

I've seen other builds where people used a collapsible shaft that can be picked up from summit. I think I am going to go with one of those when it goes back together. I wasn't aware those were an option the first time I threw the truck back together. This time, I'm going back and building what I wanted to the first time.
The Summit steering shafts look pretty good. I'm going to have to consider replacing mine sometime in the future. Thanks for the info...
 
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 09:54 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by danman223
Thanks man! Yes, the whole idea was to get the vic front end recessed in the frame 2 more inches. I have seen where people did 3, even 4", but you would start getting into the cab mounts if you went over 2" based on how far back you would have to cut to clear the lower control arm trailing arm mount. 2" was just perfect for avoiding the cab mounts, as well as not getting into the floor to clear the trans on the 4.6. If you are running anything other than a 4.6, you may want to consider how much floor would need to be cut to clear the trans. I know my 360/c6 sat farther back, and would not have allowed this cut without also cutting the floor.
Thanks for the fast reply! I will have to do a mock up to see what I can do. I'm going 390 C/6. Now that you say that the C/6 was really close to the firewall. Maybe the engine can sit lower in the cradle to make it up.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2018 | 07:09 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by danman223
Thanks man! Yes, the whole idea was to get the vic front end recessed in the frame 2 more inches. I have seen where people did 3, even 4", but you would start getting into the cab mounts if you went over 2" based on how far back you would have to cut to clear the lower control arm trailing arm mount. 2" was just perfect for avoiding the cab mounts, as well as not getting into the floor to clear the trans on the 4.6. If you are running anything other than a 4.6, you may want to consider how much floor would need to be cut to clear the trans. I know my 360/c6 sat farther back, and would not have allowed this cut without also cutting the floor.
What radiator and fan are you planning on using? I moved my 4.6 back 3" from where it was mounted on the sub frame to fit the radiator and fan from the crown vic. Moving it back also allows enough room to change a belt, however the crown vic radiator doesn't sit in to the core support but it did fit my budget. If you use a radiator meant for the truck that sinks into the core support you should have enough room to use the sub frame holes and slim fan, if I remember correctly.

What are you going to control the engine and transmission with? I struggled to find many options that would work with the throttle by wire/COP and didn't have to keep the automatic...
 
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 09:36 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Bigfreeb
Thanks for the fast reply! I will have to do a mock up to see what I can do. I'm going 390 C/6. Now that you say that the C/6 was really close to the firewall. Maybe the engine can sit lower in the cradle to make it up.
If you were to swap the pan on the 360 from front sump, to rear sump, you might be able to get the engine sitting low enough to pull it off.
 
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