Exhaust manifold...
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Exhaust manifold...
Not sure if this is the right place to post, but I'm working on replacing exhaust manifold studs on my 2002 f250 v10. I have finally removed 8/10 of just the nuts that hold the manifold to the studs. I cut the Y pipe connection bolts, cut off half of the nuts on the manifold itself because they wouldn't budge, or they were too dis-formed due to rust to get a socket on them.
The last two studs I'm having issues with are the ones behind the engine mount... I can't get an air grinder in there to cut them off, and they're not turning with a socket. How can I remove them? I have compressed air tools, a welder, corded tools, no torch. I can almost get the air grinder on the one that's third from the front of the truck, but even if I get that one I have no idea how I'm going to get the next one. (The remaining two are the second and third from front of truck passenger side, bottom of manifold)
Any advice would help, I am really thinking I should've just kept driving it how it was or scrapped it at this point. Just want this project done.
Thanks.
The last two studs I'm having issues with are the ones behind the engine mount... I can't get an air grinder in there to cut them off, and they're not turning with a socket. How can I remove them? I have compressed air tools, a welder, corded tools, no torch. I can almost get the air grinder on the one that's third from the front of the truck, but even if I get that one I have no idea how I'm going to get the next one. (The remaining two are the second and third from front of truck passenger side, bottom of manifold)
Any advice would help, I am really thinking I should've just kept driving it how it was or scrapped it at this point. Just want this project done.
Thanks.
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Just went and bought a stupid stud extractor... The thing is 2 inches long, i didn't think it would work at the store, bought it anyways and a tiny 3/8 ratchet... Needless to say, I'm still stuck... Honestly I'm close to $1000 in tools alone into this. If buying an oxy/acetelene torch would get this over with, I'm ready to just go out and buy it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
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I think the best thing is to weld a nut on the stud and try to get it out that way. Also I wouldn't drill any more especially while tired and frustrated. I would throw all ez-outs and reverse drill bits in the trash.
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The manifold is still on. That's why it's a pita to do anything with the remaining studs. I can't get the nut on the stud loose. I did just try to weld a nut on the stud but there's so little room and such a limited angle to weld at that I hit the side of the nut and now the socket wont go on it. Maybe I can get a tiny vice grip on that nut now, but jesus. I've had enough for today.
Would torching the stud flush with the manifold front be the best option? At this point I don't care how the manifold comes off, I just want it off so I have more room to work on getting the studs out.
Would torching the stud flush with the manifold front be the best option? At this point I don't care how the manifold comes off, I just want it off so I have more room to work on getting the studs out.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,087
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From: Central Florida
There's a whole V10 sub section on FTE that has multiple conversations about exhaust stud removal and replacement.
LOTS of good info there.
I understand you're frustrated but take a step back and breathe and go read what everyone else has done. I've seen multiple people post over the last couple years about successfully doing this job.
Sounds like you have the tools and skills. All you need is a refresher of mind.
Go talk to the people who have already climbed the mountain.
LOTS of good info there.
I understand you're frustrated but take a step back and breathe and go read what everyone else has done. I've seen multiple people post over the last couple years about successfully doing this job.
Sounds like you have the tools and skills. All you need is a refresher of mind.
Go talk to the people who have already climbed the mountain.
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Thanks for the support. I'll be taking your advice and trying to find a video of how to get at those two studs. I've read other posts on the job, but none really detail these two in particular being such a pain. I honestly may just have someone come out and torch them off if I can, once I get them off I can get the manifold off and that will open up all kinds of space to work on getting the studs out that aren't already and re-chasing threads if I need to.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,087
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From: Central Florida
If the motor mount is in the way, can you just remove the motor mount?
please spend a few hours on the forum researching this job. If you skip some good advice you might end up frustrated again sooner than needed.
People on here talking about everything:
- machining the manifold to prevent future failure
- what kind of washers to use during reassembly
- what kind of gasket
- what kind of fastener (stainless or not, what grade, what length, studs versus screws, anti seize or not, etc)
- considering oversized fasteners
- removal of bad studs: welding, drilling with and without the guide plate, heat, cold spray, penetrating lube preferences,
i could go on on if if I had more time.
please spend a few hours on the forum researching this job. If you skip some good advice you might end up frustrated again sooner than needed.
People on here talking about everything:
- machining the manifold to prevent future failure
- what kind of washers to use during reassembly
- what kind of gasket
- what kind of fastener (stainless or not, what grade, what length, studs versus screws, anti seize or not, etc)
- considering oversized fasteners
- removal of bad studs: welding, drilling with and without the guide plate, heat, cold spray, penetrating lube preferences,
i could go on on if if I had more time.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 23,174
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From: Stephensville WI
This is why I paid the dealer to replace my passenger side manifold at about 100k miles. I didn't want to fuss with it. The labor charge was well worth it.
....and the V10s are an even bigger PITA! If you can get the studs replaced, I tip my hat to you out of respect. You frustration tolerance is much higher than mine.
....and the V10s are an even bigger PITA! If you can get the studs replaced, I tip my hat to you out of respect. You frustration tolerance is much higher than mine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,087
Likes: 24
From: Central Florida
This is why I paid the dealer to replace my passenger side manifold at about 100k miles. I didn't want to fuss with it. The labor charge was well worth it.
....and the V10s are an even bigger PITA! If you can get the studs replaced, I tip my hat to you out of respect. You frustration tolerance is much higher than mine.
....and the V10s are an even bigger PITA! If you can get the studs replaced, I tip my hat to you out of respect. You frustration tolerance is much higher than mine.
If so then I tip my hat to your wallet lol.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 282
Likes: 3
Thanks for the support. I'll be taking your advice and trying to find a video of how to get at those two studs. I've read other posts on the job, but none really detail these two in particular being such a pain. I honestly may just have someone come out and torch them off if I can, once I get them off I can get the manifold off and that will open up all kinds of space to work on getting the studs out that aren't already and re-chasing threads if I need to.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 23,174
Likes: 1,678
From: Stephensville WI
IIRC, labor was $250 and the manifold was about $170.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,259
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From: IL
If you haven't already snapped the studs off or burned it off, I'd try a nut splitter. You were able to get sockets on the nuts you should be able to get a nut splitter on there also. The tool should only be about $20 at most.
https://www.google.com/search?source....0.RybVmgxMGnA
https://www.google.com/search?source....0.RybVmgxMGnA