When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I replaced both fuel pumps in my 1991 F150 5.8 after experiencing a cross flow issue. the system work perfect up to that point.
the front pump is now inop. I can hot wire it and it makes noise, ill hook it all up and the truck wont run. the polarity is correct. its not making pressure. I changed pumps out thinking I had a defective pump...same deal. will run off of the rear tank all day.
front...nothing, ever if hot wired.
there is 6-7 volts at the plug and the gas gage is pegged to full when plugged in
..the stupid thing should run if hot wired...but it's not.
this is a western truck with no rust and all wiring seems good.....
How are you hot wiring it?
6-7 volts sounds like zero volts to me.
Use a loading test light for the fuel circuit and not a VOM.
How do you know the polarity is correct? Could be running backwards.
Thanks for the reply.As far as the polarity goes it seems pretty obvious which way I can get the pump to actually move fuel versus not, also judging by the "color of the wires "coming from the pump to the sender .I am running a straight 12 V to the pump while it's in the tank and secured of course, running a hose from the outlet side of the pump to a gas can and it's not flowing as much as it should. It's dribbling.Again this is The second new pump I've tried thinking the first one was defective.As stated, I hotwire of the tank and hook up the pressure and return lines... The truck starts and runs on the rear tank but is soon as I switch it to the front tank it pegs to fall in the truck dies is if running out of fuel.
are use my voltmeter and it tells me I'm getting 6 V at the pump harness. I'm assuming it should be 12 V. This one is really got me stumped. I'm fairly good with car stuff having a full shop in my backyard including a Lyft but I cannot figure this one out
What else have you checked? there is a lot more to the fuel system then just the pumps. Have you checked the tank selector switch? thats the most commonly bad part, the second is a faulty relay. have the relay tested or replace it.
ChRoNo16,
Both the the front and rear tanks use the same relay. He has ran a wire from the battery POS post to the to the pump at the tank and that would by pass the selector switch.
jspriver,
Most of the time when someone uses a meter and reports that they have 6-7 volts it means the voltage from the fuel pump relay is zero and the voltage will not light a loading test light. It also means they are using a DVM.
The 6-7 volts with a high impedance DVM is coming from the PCM FPM pin #8 and not the fuel pump relay. That is why we say to use a loading test light in the fuel system.
When the front tank pegs the fuel gauge you either have a full tank of fuel or the FDM has lost its ground. The front fuel pump and the front gauge sending unit use the same ground. This ground wire splices into the ground wire in the harness that is used for the rear tank also along with the tail lamps. It grounds to the body at the left (drivers side) radiator support or in some older years under the dash on the drivers side.
The fuel tank itself is not a ground point and may not be grounded and if grounded at all it would be grounded from the fuel hanger that holds the FDM.
If they run for one second and then die each time the key is turned to the run position then the tank switch and the relay should be OK. The same circuit is used during the running of the engine.
The truck runs great on the rear tank. The front primes but won't supply the fuel to run the truck. The gage is pegged past full too. It's a new pump. I have another new one that I can swap in but if I keep swapping I'll run out of wire to butt connect !
Here's how I have it set up. It is all hooked up as if it were tucked up under the bed. Again, the truck runs fine on the rear tank. When I switch to the front tank I can hear the pump prime the fuel gauge pegs past full and the truck dies. If I run a straight 12 V to the pump it doesn't seem like it's putting out any pressure. So I am not sure if I have a defective pump... this is a brand new pump. The other one I replaced it with was also brand new. I'm going to beat this problem if it kills me
That crap is the worst, I cant tell you how many bad parts I've gotten in a row before, on multiple occasions from multiple brands on multiple vehicles. Anymore, it's worth it to foot the bill for OEM parts to not beat your head against the wall and have confidence that it will last a while. Glad you figured this out.